high pitch squeeling at 1700 rpms-need help

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 9, 2010

#1

• Sep 9, 2010

• #1

So i have a 2001 GT thats practically stock, except it has a CAI and some exterior changes. I got the fuel system cleaned including injectors, an oil change, and replaced my intake manifold (thanks to some mechanic at VIP auto breaking a part on it) However now i have a very high pitch squeek that comes in around 1600rpms and then stops around 1800rpms. The squeek seems to disappear when the transmission switches gears (its an automatic). Also the squeek wont happen when the car is in neutural but it will happen when the car is in drive while pressing the break

also the car has a 102,000 miles and and about 2 weeks after this noise started i had to replace the serpentine belt because i all of a sudden started to violently shred, im not sure if that has anything to do with the squeek. I just bought the car in july so i dont have much history on the car

please help me with this

 

trinity_gt

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Jan 31, 2003

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Sep 10, 2010

#2

• Sep 10, 2010

• #2

The belt shredding and the sound you're hearing may be related.

Examine the accessory drive -- belt, tensioner, idler etc etc -- carefully. Look for misalignments. The alternator would have been removed as part of doing the manifold; perhaps it wasn't reinstalled correctly. Look for evidence that the serpentine belt is chafing or forced to run at a bit of an angle or something as it passes over the pulleys...

 

wmburns

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Aug 14, 2009

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Sep 10, 2010

#3

• Sep 10, 2010

• #3

+1 on above.

Check all the idler pulleys for worn/frozen bearings. Take the belt off and spin each device. Look for excessive play or run out. It's a fairly common item for the idler pulley bearnings to wear out. Easy fix. Note, the bearings are sealed. They can not be lubbed.

Double check for any left over bits of belt wrapped around any rotating parts.

Don't ignore this. Already destroyed one belt. Consider that a failure of the belt may take out other things as well. Radiator, hoses, lines, electrical harness, ect (get the idea?). Replace it now while it is less than a $15 part.

 

trinity_gt

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Sep 10, 2010

#4

• Sep 10, 2010

• #4

Good points wm.

It also bears noting -- and OP I'm sure you're now aware -- that if the belt breaks you lose steering and brake power assists since both come from the belt-driven power steering pump. Could be a nasty surprise if you're not ready for it...

 

nancygrl

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Nov 25, 2009

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Sep 10, 2010

#5

• Sep 10, 2010

• #5

I had similar squeek, I changed the serp. belt but squeek was still there. So I changed the idler pulleys they are inexpensive enough and easy to do. Now no annoying squeek. Very glad it wasn't the water pump or ac

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 10, 2010

#6

• Sep 10, 2010

• #6

thanks for all the responses i'll check all the pulleys and the belt after work and post what i find, hopefully an easy fix

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 10, 2010

#7

• Sep 10, 2010

• #7

also, which one is the under drive pulley and are these pulleys something i could replace myself, i've got a very small amount of experience working on my car, basically ive just replaced brake rotors, cai, and drive belt.

and are these pulleys just found at the dealership?

 

wmburns

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Aug 14, 2009

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Sep 10, 2010

#8

• Sep 10, 2010

• #8

Idler pulleys are the smaller pulleys used to change the direction of the belt. Go to your local parts store for replacement. The dealer will have them but expect to pay more $$.

A big breaker bar is handy to release tension on the belt.

Don't forget to check the bearings in the tensioner itself.

Good Luck.

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 10, 2010

#9

• Sep 10, 2010

• #9

thanks for the help from everyone, i took the belt off and one of the pulleys is spinning oddly, im going to replace it monday and i will post up how that goes. Thanks again for the help

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 29, 2010

#10

• Sep 29, 2010

• #10

i finally had the time and money to replace the tensioner pulley, however the problems still there, should i try replacing an idler pulley even though the seem fine, there worn but still working

 

wmburns

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Sep 29, 2010

#11

• Sep 29, 2010

• #11

Consider getting yourself a Mechanic’s stethoscope. Use it to pinpoint the source of the noise. Then you will know the next part replaced is bad.

A long screw driver against your ear may work as well (it does not block out outside noise like the real tool does). Touch the tip of the screw driver to the pulley center. Listen for the roar of bad bearings.

Consider that idler pulleys are less than $15 which as auto parts go is fairly cheap. Consider that in previous posts, you thought they did not spin well.......

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 29, 2010

#12

• Sep 29, 2010

• #12

i'll try the screw driver trick tomorrow and also where'd you find idler pulley's for $15? i could only find them for $30, if i can just get one for $15 i'll just replace it and hope it solves the problem

 

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dsc1990

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Sep 9, 2010

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nh

Sep 29, 2010

#13

• Sep 29, 2010

• #13

^^ nevermind found them for $18 i ordered them, hopefully the problems gunna be fixed