Holley terminator x base timing

I just installed a holley terminator x on my foxbody. Instructions lacked what I should set my distributor base timing to? Also it's very hard to see the timing marker on the harmonic balancer.. there's a supercharger in the way.. please help..I want to make sure my timing Is set correctly. I can't really set the terminator to static timing and read it with a light. No sight on the marker.

Also it appear my fuel gauge is now inoperable after the holley. Anybody have any insight on how to get thr sending unit reference back to the cluster?


What is holley reference timing degree?
 
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Use white out or a paint marker. Original on left, replacement on right.
Set base timing at 10deg BTDC. hence the longer mark.
Don't know how the Holley Terminator X works but must be similar to all others.

Run engine with old ECU just to set the base timine.
Use a timing light with the SPOUT removed from the distributor. The put a mark on the distributor base & the block so the light is no longer needed. With the Megasquirt, this is not required. You can use Tuner Studio's Trigger Wizard.

Fuel gauge has nothing to do with ECU. There is no pressure sensor or anything other than a level sensor (variable resistor) in the tank.
IMG_1101.webp
 
Use white out or a paint marker. Original on left, replacement on right.
Set base timing at 10deg BTDC. hence the longer mark.
Don't know how the Holley Terminator X works but must be similar to all others.

Run engine with old ECU just to set the base timine.
Use a timing light with the SPOUT removed from the distributor. The put a mark on the distributor base & the block so the light is no longer needed. With the Megasquirt, this is not required. You can use Tuner Studio's Trigger Wizard.

Fuel gauge has nothing to do with ECU. There is no pressure sensor or anything other than a level sensor (variable resistor) in the tank.
IMG_1101.webp
The Holley terminator x , dominator and hp do not have any spout.

You will go up in the top boxes on a laptop in the software there’s little arrow box next to the sync arrow . Click that and click enable static timing check.

Or in the hand held and go to enable static timing check . You then put your desired lockout number - 10 degrees . Click Set it in software or on handheld while running , make sure your balancer reads 10 if it doesn’t move the dist till it does. Lock it down as click release in the software and you’re done. Now whatever is in your timing table will be your actual timing.

Plenty of info out there if you do a search online or in the Holley fb groups
 
So set static timing on the holley to lock in say 15 degrees then adjust diz to get timing light to flash at 15 degrees?

I'll have to pull the supercharger off to see the timing marks.
Correct . He shows you in the video if you watch it.

You don’t have to pull the blower off man , I have been doing it for years with a Vortech

Just have to get the right angle

Also your fuel gauge issue has ZERO to do with your Holley install unless you cut or touched a wire by mistake you shouldn’t have
 
Correct . He shows you in the video if you watch it.

You don’t have to pull the blower off man , I have been doing it for years with a Vortech

Just have to get the right angle

Also your fuel gauge issue has ZERO to do with your Holley install unless you cut or touched a wire by mistake you shouldn’t have
Thanks for the help going to look at it again this weekend.
Also, the holley term x has input for ign timing at idle and ign timing at wot @ 0 psi . After i check and confirm my static timing i want to set this data. So essentially that's base idle timing and max timing. With the timing boost retarded set to 1* degree per 1 psi boost.

I know every vehicle and combination is different but what is it good starting points for these 2 data points?
 
Thanks for the help going to look at it again this weekend.
Also, the holley term x has input for ign timing at idle and ign timing at wot @ 0 psi . After i check and confirm my static timing i want to set this data. So essentially that's base idle timing and max timing. With the timing boost retarded set to 1* degree per 1 psi boost.

I know every vehicle and combination is different but what is it good starting points for these 2 data points?
Every engine is different start at 30-32 for wot at 0psi for idle I have run them anywhere from 15-20 degrees depending on the combo. I’d start at 15-16

Set boost retard to 1-1.5 until you get the car tuned . The unit DOES NOT tune itself. Yes it will correct but a base map is merely a base map
 
Every engine is different start at 30-32 for wot at 0psi for idle I have run them anywhere from 15-20 degrees depending on the combo. I’d start at 15-16

Set boost retard to 1-1.5 until you get the car tuned . The unit DOES NOT tune itself. Yes it will correct but a base map is merely a base map
Thank you for your insight, what about "cruise spark timing" that's the third input to create the base map for the holley. Yes I know it's a base but I need a starting point.

And what about ignition reference angle on the term x software ? Will that set itself after I set the static timing check or is that something different?
 

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Thank you for your insight, what about "cruise spark timing" that's the third input to create the base map for the holley. Yes I know it's a base but I need a starting point.

And what about ignition reference angle on the term x software ? Will that set itself after I set the static timing check or is that something different?
Leave the reference as 10 degrees don’t touch that

Make the cruise timing 36
 
@TOOLOW91

Yesterday I set my static timing checked both 10* and 30* degree Up to 3k rpm. Locked in distrubtor. Car will not restart.

Only way I can get car to restart is loosen diz and free hand spin it withsome cranking the car. Appears My timing is all out of whack.

I noticed the tfi module was close to tstat housing so i said I must be off a tooth, I reset it so tfi module is in-between t Stat and a/c comp. Reset the static timing again. Same issue.
 
@TOOLOW91

Yesterday I set my static timing checked both 10* and 30* degree Up to 3k rpm. Locked in distrubtor. Car will not restart.

Only way I can get car to restart is loosen diz and free hand spin it withsome cranking the car. Appears My timing is all out of whack.

I noticed the tfi module was close to tstat housing so i said I must be off a tooth, I reset it so tfi module is in-between t Stat and a/c comp. Reset the static timing again. Same issue.
You only set the static timing once in one spot . If you choose 10 it’s 10 make sure it matches at 10 lock it and forget it. You don’t need to check it again at 30 degrees.

Once it’s set and locked you need to make sure you go back to the static timing menu and click “clear” so it re enables timing control.

If it doesn’t start after that it’s because it needs more or less cranking fuel , throttle blade isn’t open enough etc. try giving it some throttle next time and if it starts and you have to keep it running with your foot you know it needs more initial throttle blade.

At that point you want to get it where the iac is reading 0-8% hot. Once you get this set and car running make sure you do another TPs auto set when you get the blade where it needs to be.

The whole “tooth off “ on the dist is like half myth. The sbf distributor has so much swing that as long as you can get the timing where it needs to be except for the sake of plug wire placement a tooth off don’t matter.
 
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Every engine is different start at 30-32 for wot at 0psi for idle I have run them anywhere from 15-20 degrees depending on the combo. I’d start at 15-16

Set boost retard to 1-1.5 until you get the car tuned . The unit DOES NOT tune itself. Yes it will correct but a base map is merely a base map

I see what you mean a base map is barely a base map. I'm no means a professional but after hours of watching YouTube and driving around with a laptop for a few hundred miles that "base map" is rubbish.
 
I see what you mean a base map is barely a base map. I'm no means a professional but after hours of watching YouTube and driving around with a laptop for a few hundred miles that "base map" is rubbish.
Yes sir , I always tell everyone - Junk in = junk out .

So if you grasp an idea of how to use the system and pay someone to tune . Once they do at that point any small changes you’d be able to make yourself but you’ll have a real solid foundation to start with