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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Hooking Up On The Street...

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  • Start date Start date Aug 24, 2014
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
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Aug 26, 2014
#21
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #21
I'd say you goto nitto drag radials and just be careful in the rain and do not run them too low on tread.

I also like putting the battery on the rear passenger side tire.

If you run the drag radials you won't have to comprise the rest of the car's setup. God forbid you have to make a panic maneuver without a sway bar with drag springs. Might as well be driving a boat.

I've run a drag setup on the street. It's terrible.
I consider the drag radials safer.
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#22
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #22
Noobz347 said:
Hmmm....

I'm thinking about what I might do if I were trying to pull the front wheels on the street without a bunch of weight reduction.

HPM Megabite if you don't care at all about ride
Megabite Jr lowers if you do (at least a little)
Stiff uppers with spherical bearings on one end and urethane on the other
Adjustable shocks
Sub-frame connectors
Street cage
coil spring air bag
4-cylinder springs or after market equiv
Panhard bar
Spool
solid motor mounts

and last but not least... a mini-tub with 15 inch wide tires.
Click to expand...
Well....if you can't hook with 15" wide tires you must be on the tv show Street Outlaws.
 
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sen2two

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning
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#23
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #23
Any benefits to be had by changing the squat/anti - squat by mounting the upper and lower control arms on the rear higher or lower. I can do this pretty easily.

What is the anti - squat value of the stock Fox?
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#24
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #24
Check out TeamZ Motorsports. You tube,or their website. If you want to really concentrate on straight line acceleration they have a lot of products/info available. But again which I know you're going to ignore-TIRES! Regular radials will not hook on the street if you're making any descent amount of power. No matter what you do with suspension.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#25
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #25
Brainstorm, not derail since conventional thinking has bet this horse to death. I have thought about putting spray nozzles in the rear wheel wells to spray sticky track stuff on or just ahead of the tires. Does anyone know if the track prep (VHT?) has to dry first?
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#26
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #26
7991LXnSHO said:
Brainstorm, not derail since conventional thinking has bet this horse to death. I have thought about putting spray nozzles in the rear wheel wells to spray sticky track stuff on or just ahead of the tires. Does anyone know if the track prep (VHT?) has to dry first?
Click to expand...
Nope. Spray and then heat em up! Don't want to admit this but used to do the "street r**e" scene back in the early 90's. We used to spray it on the road and pull in to heat the tires and go. Hope mods don't get mad.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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#27
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #27
No disrespect to others who have posted in here... but it's old school thinking to claim that car's can't hook on the street. Nowadays, street racing and no prep racing is very popular. One of my customers just won Mini Cash Days a couple weekends ago, beating some of the fastest street cars in the country. (and yes, he makes over 1000hp and wheelies on the street)

The proper setup is expensive and time consuming, but it's not too complicated.


sen2two said:
Any benefits to be had by changing the squat/anti - squat by mounting the upper and lower control arms on the rear higher or lower. I can do this pretty easily.

What is the anti - squat value of the stock Fox?
Click to expand...

IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who holds the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.
 
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A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#28
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #28
Sharad said:
No disrespect to others who have posted in here... but it's old school thinking to claim that car's can't hook on the street. Nowadays, street racing and no prep racing is very popular. One of my customers just won Mini Cash Days a couple weekends ago, beating some of the fastest street cars in the country. (and yes, he makes over 1000hp and wheelies on the street)

The proper setup is expensive and time consuming, but it's not too complicated.




IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who holds the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.
Click to expand...
Sharad,I'm not saying that the proper suspension won't help. But he wants to run "regular" radial tires and "hook" on the street! If that can be done I haven't seen it. With tires and suspension...sure wheels up launches are possible on the street. But I call Without some descent TIRES & SUSPENSION.
 
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Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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Aug 26, 2014
#29
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #29
A5literMan said:
Sharad,I'm not saying that the proper suspension won't help. But he wants to run "regular" radial tires and "hook" on the street! If that can be done I haven't seen it. With tires and suspension...sure wheels up launches are possible on the street. But I call Without some descent TIRES & SUSPENSION.
Click to expand...

With ya 100% brother. You MUST have GOOD tires & suspension to hook on the street.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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#30
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #30
Parallel lower control arms also wheel hop less. Good addition! You can wheel hop a 4 cylinder car all day with the air shocks pumped way up.

Now bug out! I hear a moderator down the street!
 

bentley429isBAC

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#31
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #31
My buddy used to run a stock 88 lx with 3.73 and 26" mt slick, that would dead hook on the street. Only mods were no front sway bar and no quad shocks. The only way it is going to hook is with a decent tire. When mine was stock with a blower with street tires it would blow the tires off bad until 3rd then just haze them. Put some 275/50 bfg Dr on and it would barely haze in first. Point is tires are huge.

My car currently dead hooks then hazes the tire 60' out or so and cleans up. I am currently working on that issue. Full suspension front and back on 28x10.5.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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#32
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #32
Noobz347 said:
Hmmm....

I'm thinking about what I might do if I were trying to pull the front wheels on the street without a bunch of weight reduction.

HPM Megabite if you don't care at all about ride
Megabite Jr lowers if you do (at least a little)
Stiff uppers with spherical bearings on one end and urethane on the other
Adjustable shocks
Sub-frame connectors
Street cage
coil spring air bag
4-cylinder springs or after market equiv
Panhard bar
Spool
solid motor mounts

and last but not least... a mini-tub with 15 inch wide tires.
Click to expand...
Where are thses dinosoar hpm arms you speak of ? Beside under my car
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Aug 26, 2014
#33
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #33
TOOLOW91 said:
Where are thses dinosoar hpm arms you speak of ? Beside under my car
Click to expand...

They probably could be.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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#34
  • Aug 26, 2014
  • #34
Noobz347 said:
They probably could be.
Click to expand...
a great arm not for nothing and I have there heim uppers as well and the car goes nice and straight and solid
 

2000xp8

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#35
  • Aug 27, 2014
  • #35
When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
 
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srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#36
  • Aug 27, 2014
  • #36
Sharad said:
IMO, people overthink this. My racers run the LCAs close to parallel to the ground and let the uppers go where they go. And they dead hook on the street. I have one customer who HAD the 275 record with a 4.23 @ 172 with a 1.10 sixty foot time. No control arm relocation involved.
Click to expand...

to do it on a hard tire (non drag radial) your going to be be deep into the suspension with double adjustable shocks and all that to make it do what a good radial would do.

as for the 275 record... its 4.18 now held by marty stinnett
pearsons 4.23 stood for a long time though! and im not sure what Marty has under his car
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#37
  • Aug 27, 2014
  • #37
2000xp8 said:
When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
Click to expand...
yup dropping the lower bar down like they do makes the thing really hit the tire hard but it also throws the % of rise way up.
everyone i know who runs SS runs the lower bar flat and puts the upper where it needs to be to get the IC where they want it
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#38
  • Aug 27, 2014
  • #38
2000xp8 said:
When i younger (like 20 years ago) i ran standard radials, i bought some southside bars. I can say for sure they worked.
Unfortunately they also helped tear my torque boxes off the car and cost me $1100 to fix.

Holy crap were they are poor design.
Click to expand...
I ran them too! With a completely stock suspension other than those and sfc I was cutting 1.80 60ft times on M&H bias ply dot tires(they were really a slick with 2 "rain" grooves in em). They did work pretty good though.
 

2000xp8

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#39
  • Aug 27, 2014
  • #39
If i remember correctly my southsides had a solid bearing. Like one that one didn't allow any movement left or right, only up and down. Umm yeah, that's not a good plan on a street car. Any time (like bumps or corner) it put a ridiculous amount of stress on those boxes. Something had to give.
I was harder on the car back them and stick cornered it hard. Not good with those arms.
Literally a chassis shop cut my torque boxes out and made custom boxes.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#40
  • Aug 29, 2014
  • #40
I exclusively use used tires for the street on my Mustang. Are you guys saying hurts my street traction?

Kurt
 
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