How are you controlling YOUR electric fan?

black92gt said:
I leave mine on all the time, runs nice and cool.


What fan are you using? I'm using a 3.8 Taurus/Continential fan that pulls something close to 100amps at start-up and 30-35amps constant. I'm afraid to kill my battery..... It cycled on and off for OVER an hour last night. And that was on a cool night.....I can't imagine how long it would cycle on and off for on a summer day. That's why I want to find switched power.

Sorry my the stupid question but what is "acc" for the radio? Would that be the fuse?
 
On the bottom left of the rad there is a metal piece that i drilled through into the rad , i then soldered using a torch a nut that the temperature sensor will screw into over the hole .. screw it in - attach the power and fan to the switch and there ya go.
 
I thaught id add that I never get any leaks or anything and its been 6 months since i have installed it. I know it was kinda risky doing this but i only paid a few bucks for the rad since i got it from the junkyard anyway!

I uploaded some crappy pics just so you get the idea , my car is really dirty as you can tell under the hood :P .. i live in canada and drive it year round so the conditions make it hard to keep clean.
 

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GroverDill said:
Its the upper hose. think about it its the closest to the thermostat, makes sense that way.

I have a complete Zirgo set up, pretty cheap and has worked great thus far.

thin fan 3.3 inches
16" and 3300 cfm
the sensor is in the upper rad hose and a adjutable "turn on temp" is on the side.
Hey Grover, (evrybody) the fans job is not to cool the engine, that's the radiators job. The fan is a helper for cooling. The temp probe for the fan should be as close to the outlet of the radiator as possible. It should be reading the water temp going back to the engine and determine if it's cool enough.

Cliff :)
 
jerry beach said:
They are mostly all stuck through the fins. Whats important is where you put them. They need to be close to the lower rad hose and inch off the tank or so.

Do you have a 3g alt? If not the DC contoller is the way to go. If you have the 3G then that $20 controller will work if you have the sensor installed correctly. Otherwise take it back and tell them it doesnt work. I went with the DC control mainly because it was cheaper than the alt upgrade, but its got to be more reliable than conventional systems. The soft start makes it easy on all your components, just read the info on the site. Its easy to install and has self protection and circuit protect features, try that with a relay. :D

Yo dude, are you saying with this control we should be able to use the factory alternator? Is a relay still needed and does it not still pull major amps?

Thanks,
Cliff :)
 
Good reading here, guys.

I put a Taurus fan on my 82 with just a 30 amp relay and a switched. Works fine, but I did leave it on a couple times and it ran the bat down.

The 4 cyl Mustangs have a $120 control module to run the fan, and the fan must draw 40 amps. Mine melted two of the stock wiring connectors, so now it is connected to a pair of 30 amp relays. Interesting to hear the amp draws for various fans, where did you find that info?
 
All this work & $ for approx 5hp seems silly. I thought about going to an electric fan before, but it just doesn't seem worth the trouble. The DCC controller is $$$ and many people have problems w/the cheaper routes.
 
Loco5.0 said:
All this work & $ for approx 5hp seems silly. I thought about going to an electric fan before, but it just doesn't seem worth the trouble. The DCC controller is $$$ and many people have problems w/the cheaper routes.
Trouble is trying to tighten the fan bolts with the factory clutch fan inside the factory shroud! That sucks!

My wifes LX lost 3 of those 4 bolts some how and the fan came off and started bouncing around and.........
long story short, I have to replace the fan and radiator. Im just glad the shroud was busted and semi out of the way to where I could get the last bolt out to remove the POS clutch fan. There is no way in hell I'd put that mess back on. I have an extra stock radiator and I'm going to get the dccontroller if I can get some verification that I will not need to upgrade to a 3G alternator. ANYBODY???

dccontrol = $$

3G alt = $$$$

I chose $$

I would do it even if it were a 5 HP loss.

Cliff :)