How bad will 30's kill me n/a?

0

00 Red SS

New Member

Jan 22, 2003

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Grain Valley, MO

Aug 23, 2004

#1

• Aug 23, 2004

• #1

Im stepping up my dry kit to push alot of nitrous and need to use 30lb injectors. My question is how bad will they effect my normal driving and n/a performance? Mods are in my sig except i will also be adding a 75mm tb and egr, 76mm maf for 30's and a 255fuel pump so ill still be on stock heads. Only reason for such big stuff is it will be good for my 331 and for right now it should help spraying the piss out of this stock shortblock.

 

X

xplo89gt

Founding Member

Jul 14, 1999

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Boston, MA

Aug 23, 2004

#2

• Aug 23, 2004

• #2

I have 30s and they are a bit big for my setup, but they work. The only problems I have is when first starting up the car, when the computer is in open loop. After it warms up and gets readings from the o2 sensors its pretty much fine. Sometimes i have problems mainting a good idle for a long time, but I think that also has to do with my tfs stage 1 cam. I believe the computer will just shorten the injector pulse time so it sprays as much as it needs. Good luck.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 23, 2004

#3

• Aug 23, 2004

• #3

30's are ideal for both of you especially with that dry kit. As long as the eec adapts, it will run just as its suppsoed to. I run 30's in my n/a 302 as well

 

D

dromeda

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Apr 17, 2004

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Aug 23, 2004

#4

• Aug 23, 2004

• #4

My car is bone stock (minus 1.7 roller rockers) and I stuck 30#'s in there since I had the intake off and will be upgrading to a power adder soon. I'm interested as well in milage. I assume that the EEC would just adapt it once it learned it after awhile.

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

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Aug 23, 2004

#5

• Aug 23, 2004

• #5

xplo89gt said:

I have 30s and they are a bit big for my setup, but they work. The only problems I have is when first starting up the car, when the computer is in open loop. After it warms up and gets readings from the o2 sensors its pretty much fine. Sometimes i have problems mainting a good idle for a long time, but I think that also has to do with my tfs stage 1 cam. I believe the computer will just shorten the injector pulse time so it sprays as much as it needs. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Yeah same here...my injectors are a bit big for my setup also...it runs real rich at idle...what do you mean about the open loop at idle...what does it do on your car until it warms up...(I'm trying to figure something out on my car)...?...but the car drives fine besides idle surge and the smell of fuel at idle...

 

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00 Red SS

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Jan 22, 2003

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Grain Valley, MO

Aug 23, 2004

#6

• Aug 23, 2004

• #6

Hell this good news then, mileage is not a concern. The only time i drive it is good weather when i feel like it and at the track. I was afraid it wouldnt run very good and try to flood on startups.

 

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xplo89gt

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Jul 14, 1999

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Aug 24, 2004

#7

• Aug 24, 2004

• #7

Here are two quick definitions i grabbed from google. You can search more and will find some in depth articles.


Open Loop: A mode of operation in a computerized engine management system that occurs after a cold start. During open loop, the computer provides a fixed air/fuel ratio that is richer than normal to improve cold derivability until the engine warms up.

Closed Loop: The basic principle of electronic engine management in which input from an oxygen sensor allows the engine control computer to determine and maintain a nearly perfect air-fuel ratio. To enter closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor must be producing a voltage signal and the engine must have reached a certain operating temperature.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Aug 24, 2004

#8

• Aug 24, 2004

• #8

5spd GT said:

Yeah same here...my injectors are a bit big for my setup also...it runs real rich at idle...what do you mean about the open loop at idle...what does it do on your car until it warms up...(I'm trying to figure something out on my car)...?...but the car drives fine besides idle surge and the smell of fuel at idle...

Click to expand...

You're not rich at idle, your car just stinks with all the new parts and no cats You'll be in oen loop when you first turn the car on. When the cars all warmed up and you turn it on you might notice a surge, then a few seconds go by and the surge stops. Its now in closed loop. The 30's are ideal for you.

 

QDRHRSE

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Dec 31, 2002

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Aug 24, 2004

#9

• Aug 24, 2004

• #9

With stock heads I wouldn't say 30's are ideal but they will work fine. You may have to reduce the FP a little. If you don't have an adjustable regulator you should get one anyway.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

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PA

Aug 24, 2004

#10

• Aug 24, 2004

• #10

QDRHRSE said:

With stock heads I wouldn't say 30's are ideal but they will work fine. You may have to reduce the FP a little. If you don't have an adjustable regulator you should get one anyway.

Click to expand...

I agree, they are not ideal but would be near perfect with a set of heads. The EEC will adjust the pulse width to make the A/F ratio correct, you will be fine...

 

X

xplo89gt

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Aug 24, 2004

#11

• Aug 24, 2004

• #11

Curious what should the fuel pressure be for my setup? Right now I think it is stock... would turning it down a bit help?

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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#12

• Aug 24, 2004

• #12

Keep it stock. Unless your way out of tune, adjusting it is only temp until the eec adapts 30's are near perfect for you.

 

X

xplo89gt

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Aug 24, 2004

#13

• Aug 24, 2004

• #13

i have idle problems in open loop
maybe i need a tweecer

 

T

tjm73

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Aug 3, 2000

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Aug 24, 2004

#14

• Aug 24, 2004

• #14

Dry nitrous kits.....I can't understand why anyone would use them.... it's a recipe for engine meltdown.

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

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Aug 25, 2004

#15

• Aug 25, 2004

• #15

Grn92LX said:

You're not rich at idle, your car just stinks with all the new parts and no cats You'll be in oen loop when you first turn the car on. When the cars all warmed up and you turn it on you might notice a surge, then a few seconds go by and the surge stops. Its now in closed loop. The 30's are ideal for you.

Click to expand...

It's rich trust me ...the plugs tell it all...I had the offroad h before I did the "swap"...the new part smell is now gone...lol...but my clutch is slipping...stock napa clutch

For my "combo"...30's would be perfect with a tune...but I don't have a tune nor am I getting one any time soon...no places that do mustangs around here...

If only Ford made a 27lb injector

 

TIMMY2734

Founding Member

May 17, 2002

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Queens, NY

Aug 25, 2004

#16

• Aug 25, 2004

• #16

My car idles pretty damn good with 36#ers on my stroker. It'll surge from time to time, but i think ive got other issues

 

0

00 Red SS

New Member

Jan 22, 2003

270

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Grain Valley, MO

Aug 25, 2004

#17

• Aug 25, 2004

• #17

I decided to go with 28's i can get them from an LS1 buddy really cheap, ill just get an maf for 30's along with a adj.fpr and turn it up a bit. Thanks alot guys.

 

mustangt562

Member

Jan 22, 2004

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Long Beach

Aug 25, 2004

#18

• Aug 25, 2004

• #18

Humm

Well I have 30's with my set up and have ABSOLUTELY no problems what so ever. No gass smell, no surges, no nothing. I think the computer adjusts well. My mods are in the sig below. Also I live in Calif and I passed smog with FLYING colors

 

Jo_885o

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Jul 17, 2003

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Clint. Twp, Michigan

Aug 25, 2004

#19

• Aug 25, 2004

• #19

yeah cause i just bought some 30lb's and wanted to know if it'll be alright with my setup, but now i know.

 

T

tjm73

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Aug 3, 2000

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Rush, NY

Aug 25, 2004

#20

• Aug 25, 2004

• #20

As long as you have a MAF that's calibrated for 30# injectors the ECU will meter the correct ammount of fuel. It'll be like you have the stock injectors in it. If you don't have the correct MAF, it'll haev rich A/F ratio issues.

Just get the proper MAF and go with it.