very easy to raise redline. u will need to invest in some better internals, and also u will need to mods to GIVE U ENOUGH POWER TO USE THE EXTRA REV.
i dont know what ur reasoning is for wanting to redline higher; is it so u can think your car is cooler, or is it to serve a purpose like needing the extra tach to not redline at the end of the 1320?
common sense tells me its because he wants more power....
u would be surprised.... there are a lot of ppl who would like to be like vtak yo and rev higher...
If you want to shift at 7K you need to move the factory HP peak which is at 5k to some where's around 6200-6500 RPM. We can start with forged rotating assemble, new cams, port heads, reworked intake and exhaust systems.
you'd be suprised if you read other posts you'd know he's planning on building a new motor and would like to raise his rev limiter... dont be a n00b and start knocking people.
with FI you always want to be in the powerband, ,mr stan weiss isnt I beam rods aimed at higher reving engines
Bottom line is your not going to make any more power worth the money of raising your rev limiter. You will need a forged shortblock, .600 springs with titanium hats and locks, upgraded followers, upgraded or solid lash adjusters, completely reworked heads (stage 3 patriots wouldnt do it), good blower cams and a supercharger like an F1a or better.
With out all that raising a 2v rev limiter is pointless.
Happy spending.
So what you are saying is that the 4.6 engine unlike the SBC and 5.0 Ford can not be built to make HP and Rev greater that 7k without a blower?
I'm curious, what mechanically different about the 4v that keeps it from flying apart compared to the 2v. I'm not talking about airflow or making it worth while, only mechanical parts, like rods, rod bolts, and valve springs. I ask because I honestly don't see why you need exotic parts, like titanium valve springs and solid lifters to turn 7k rpm. Ford did it without solid lifters and they had an extra 2 valves to control....
It's not like 7k is THAT fast. I would think better rods and upgraded valve springs should do it. For reference, on my OHC 2.3, you don't need to go to solid lifters until you are spinning 7500+. Is the crank in the 4v different too?
i wanna be the coolest kid on the blocki dont know what ur reasoning is for wanting to redline higher; is it so u can think your car is cooler, or is it to serve a purpose like needing the extra tach to not redline at the end of the 1320?
bingocommon sense tells me its because he wants more power....
i plan on rebuilding anyway, so while im shelling out the $$ for forged internals anyway, why not raise redline? the way i look at it, one of the downfalls of a standard transmission is that you lose time shifting. so i want to make the most power, and stay in the same gear for as long as possible. i already have the 4.10s to help keep me in the powerband.Who doesn't think a 7k 4.6 is cool?.....although the idea of shelling out the green to rev to 7k is a bit......wasteful.........i have asked this similar question on here before....but realized its too much money and can be spent on other things....like?......A KB
i was planning on doing all that. although the stage 3 comp cams were the only ones that made power past 6k rpms, but boast an extremely rough idle, which would affect driveability, which i dont want. so maybe a custom grind is in order?If you want to shift at 7K you need to move the factory HP peak which is at 5k to some where's around 6200-6500 RPM. We can start with forged rotating assemble, new cams, port heads, reworked intake and exhaust systems.
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