How difficult is an electric fan to install?

[Kdubslugga]

I walked out to the garage today and rested my intake on the fan shroud, and it cracked in half. I figured id just get an electric fan, to replace that and the crappy clutch fan while im at it. Im just kind of affraid of the electrical aspect of the install. How difficult is it. Are there relays and stuff i have to worry about??

 

[HISSIN50]

tell what fan you are going to use and how you want to wire it in. e.g. use a fan controller, controller with manual switch, wire it to come on with the A/C, and so on.

if you want a easy way, it seems that Mr Baskin's controllers are very easy to plumb in and work very very well. if you only have a stock alternator, that controller will allow you to milk your stocker, as it is variable (not on or off).

give more info and no matter what route you choose, it is pretty easy.

good luck.

 

[Michael Yount]

Go here to see the controller - only way to go, and MUCH easier to wire up than relays/switches, etc. www.dccontrol.com

 

[Idwitheld-1`]

Don't even attempt this if you have not upgraded your alternator to a 3G and upgraded your main wire to a 4 gauge (minimum).

It won't work otherwise. Unless you like driving around at 5K RPM....and even then start-and-stop driving is out of the question.

 

[Michael Yount]

Not so fast there ID - like hissin said above, if you have the right controller, a lot less alternator is required.

The Delta Current Control device supplies variable current to run the fan at variable speeds. The fan only runs as hard as it needs to in order to keep the car at the temp. set point. And many don't need the fan to run as fast as it's capable of.

My car is air conditioned with twin SPAL 11" cooling fans. I run only the 95A alternator and the fans have yet to run at anything more than about 60% speed. Most of the time, they're running even less than that. My voltage gauge stays pegged at 14-14.4V almost all the time. I've seen it move down to 13.8V or so with fans, a/c, stereo, headlights and wipers on on a hot summer evening after a thunderstorm. And all of that at idle. At speed, it pegs the gauge.

What you're describing is necessary because most control systems cycle the fan on and off at 100% speed/current. And then, yes, it takes a bunch of alternator to manage it. But that is a very inefficient way to control a fan or any motor. And it results in big current spikes for the first fraction of a second that the unit comes on - 2 to 3 times the steady state current draw. That's hard on motors, alternators and batteries. The variable speed controller does away with all of that.

Just thought you'd want the REST of the story. 3G isn't always necessary.

 

[MusPuppis]

Thanks for that link Michael. Ive been thinking about converting to electric for a while and that little controller looks like a damn fine way to go about it.

Just out of curiosity, What fan would you recommend? I need something to provide adaquate cooling at the cheapest possible price, heh. Engine is mostly stock, .40 over rebuilt bottom end, ported e7's.

p.s. Sorry for the thread hi-jack, hehe.

 

[Michael Yount]

Well I don't think "cheap" and cooling system should be used in the same sentence. Cheap cooling system parts often lead to big engine repair costs. Don't skimp on the fan - skimp elsewhere, but not there.

The 4 most popular seem to be - SPAL dual 11" shrouded (www.spal-usa.com); Taurus 3.8L fan; Stang SN95 fan; Lincoln MkViii fan. Obviously the last 3 most buy used - so perhaps there's a good deal there for you. Baskin at DCControl has lots of experience with all 4.

Here's what I ABSOLUTELY would not do - do not try the $69 16" special at your local speed shop. Fine for a 4-cyl sport compact; not for a 5.0L V8.

 

[saniutza]

Go here to see the controller - only way to go, and MUCH easier to wire up than relays/switches, etc. www.dccontrol.com

which controller? i looked on the website and they have like 3 of them...
i'm getting ready to upgrade to an electric fan, taurus 3.8 , and an 3g alternator... so which controller???

 

[Michael Yount]

Hit the "contact" button on the website and you'll magically be able to send an email to baskin - he's the expert on the correct sizing of his product, not us. Ask him - email at [email protected]. Be prepared to tell him about your fan and alternator. I'd bet he'll tell you that with what you're suggesting, you can take the smallest - 35A - controller.

 

[saniutza]

Hit the "contact" button on the website and you'll magically be able to send an email to baskin - he's the expert on the correct sizing of his product, not us. Ask him - email at [email protected]. Be prepared to tell him about your fan and alternator. I'd bet he'll tell you that with what you're suggesting, you can take the smallest - 35A - controller.

ok... lets say i got the controller, fan, alternator, 2gauge wire, Water Neck for temp sensor and temp sensor... what else do i need? how do i control when to start the fan and stop?(i dont wanna have a trigger switch, i want the fan to start automaticly) and i do not have ac... ac has been removed...

 

[Michael Yount]

What part of ask baskin don't you understand? LOL Let's see, you're buying the controller, but you want to know how to control when to start and stop the fan? Simple. Install the controller you bought. IT controls the fan - that's why they call it a controller.

Read the site more closely. HE supplies the temperature sensor with the unit. It's a VARIABLE current and speed unit. It doesn't simply turn on and off. It runs as fast or as slow as it needs to. The sensor simply plugs into the radiator fins near the bottom hose outlet. You pick the temp you want to control to and set it up by jumpering certain pins on the controller. Set it 5F-10F above your t'stat temp so the fan isn't running all the time. It has settings for underdrive pulleys (runs the fan a bit more/sooner/faster to make up for less water flowing), and you can set it up to be triggered when your a/c is turned on. You won't need a temp switch or a different t'stat housing. You won't even have to touch your t'stat housing.

All the info is at the site - including wiring instructions. If you have more detailed questions - email the address I posted before - baskin can help you more than we can.

 

[MusPuppis]

Michael,

I wasnt meaning "cheap" as in crappy, I was just meaning "cheap" as compared to what choices are out there. ie, I'm looking for the best bang for my buck. I dont intend to skimp on something as important as my cooling system. I'll look into the fans you suggested.

 

[Michael Yount]

Used is often the best bang for the buck - but as you know, you must be careful. I've heard that the Volvo 940's also ran the same shrouded fan as the Taurus 3.8L - check out the import junk yards. You might find a better deal. The Taurus fan or the Thunderbird/Cougar 5.0L fans might be the cheapest; probably pay a premium for the Stang 5.0L or Lincoln fans. I use the SPAL unit - it rocks, and is first rate quality.

 

[saniutza]

What part of ask baskin don't you understand? LOL Let's see, you're buying the controller, but you want to know how to control when to start and stop the fan? Simple. Install the controller you bought. IT controls the fan - that's why they call it a controller.

Read the site more closely. HE supplies the temperature sensor with the unit. It's a VARIABLE current and speed unit. It doesn't simply turn on and off. It runs as fast or as slow as it needs to. The sensor simply plugs into the radiator fins near the bottom hose outlet. You pick the temp you want to control to and set it up by jumpering certain pins on the controller. Set it 5F-10F above your t'stat temp so the fan isn't running all the time. It has settings for underdrive pulleys (runs the fan a bit more/sooner/faster to make up for less water flowing), and you can set it up to be triggered when your a/c is turned on. You won't need a temp switch or a different t'stat housing. You won't even have to touch your t'stat housing.

All the info is at the site - including wiring instructions. If you have more detailed questions - email the address I posted before - baskin can help you more than we can.

tnx a lot man... i'm just tryinf=g to get as much info as posible before i start doing anything... tnx a lot and MERRY CHRISTMAS to everyone

 

[Michael Yount]

No prob sanuitza - email baskin BEFORE you order - that's the best way to be sure you get the right things. I recommend getting the unit and install kit - it comes with the sensor and all the wiring you need. Also, he sells an LED indicator light you can mount in the car so you know when the fan is on and off, and whether it's turning faster or slower (led changes color - yellow slow, orange, faster, green faster still) - pretty slick feature.

Happy holiday to you too- M

 

[crunchie12268]

I have a Taurus fan that will fit sitting in my garage... have everything but the 5 dollar relay. I can give it to you cheap.

 

[rd]

I put a used $20 Taurus or Lincoln fan on with an Autozone 30 amp relay and toggle switch. I cut the extra plastic brackets off with the sawzall, and wire tied it in 3 places. I have a $99 Radiator Express 2 core replacement radiator and an add on trans cooler in there. Stock alt from about 1980 or so. I have underdrives, but the 410 gears seem to make up for that.

Amazingly enough, it works pretty well. It does get to the mid point of the stock gage idling in the staging lanes, and at stop signs. No ac, but I drive it regularly no matter how hot or cold. Headlights, fan and bottle heater do make the lights dim at idle though.

One of the lesser expensive mods I have done that worked!

 

[Idwitheld-1`]

Not so fast there ID - like hissin said above, if you have the right controller, a lot less alternator is required.

The Delta Current Control device supplies variable current to run the fan at variable speeds. The fan only runs as hard as it needs to in order to keep the car at the temp. set point. And many don't need the fan to run as fast as it's capable of.

My car is air conditioned with twin SPAL 11" cooling fans. I run only the 95A alternator and the fans have yet to run at anything more than about 60% speed. Most of the time, they're running even less than that. My voltage gauge stays pegged at 14-14.4V almost all the time. I've seen it move down to 13.8V or so with fans, a/c, stereo, headlights and wipers on on a hot summer evening after a thunderstorm. And all of that at idle. At speed, it pegs the gauge.

What you're describing is necessary because most control systems cycle the fan on and off at 100% speed/current. And then, yes, it takes a bunch of alternator to manage it. But that is a very inefficient way to control a fan or any motor. And it results in big current spikes for the first fraction of a second that the unit comes on - 2 to 3 times the steady state current draw. That's hard on motors, alternators and batteries. The variable speed controller does away with all of that.

Just thought you'd want the REST of the story. 3G isn't always necessary.

Michael, I agree.
My comment was poised at the majority of Stangers who don't use the DC controller. There are many factors that will determin total duty cycle and (resultant) current drain. Factors include radiator material, cooling fin area fan choice, AC condensor and even Auto-trans cooler size and even ambient air temperatures.
My statement may have appeared as a "blanket". However, it was meant to cover all possible conditions. Besides, everyone loves a new shiney part under the hood!

 

[Michael Yount]

ID - gotcha; your 'context' adjustment allows me to make perfect sense of the post. Nothing like shiny new parts!!! Gave myself (well, it's from my wife, but she doesn't know it yet) a new leather covered shift knob for Christmas - the kind that came on the Cobras. Matches my leather covered Volvo Turbo steering wheel perfectly.

 

[ratrapp]

i ran my proform fan on the stock alt. for a year and it worked fine,no charging problems.i don't have a/c or a killer stereo.i upgraded to a 3g because i got march u/d pulleys,not because the alt. failed.people tend to not the limits of a stock charging system and that causes alot of premature failures.