how do i disconnect the fuel rail?

[crash22]

well about 2 weeks ago i got a fuel leak from the front injector on the passager side by the O ring that goes on the injector and fuel rail, i got the upper manifold off and everything i got the bolts off the fuel rail and it moves, but it dosen't move enough for me to take out the injectors and take out the 2 O rings inside the rail, but to do that my haynes manual says that i have to use a spring lock coupler which i don't know where to get or how to use? here's a pic of of what i need to disconnect.

 

[dastang2]

go to the parts store and ask them about it, i bought a set of round plastic ones and they costed about 6-8 bucks and are easy to use.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Yeah just like dastang said 6-10 bucks. They are good to have as they work for other stuff like AC. There are 2 kinds. I like the ones that are springloaded and Pac Man shaped- they are easier to use.

 

[RYC CUKR]

If you just need to replace the o rings on the injectors than you really don't have to disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rails. You can just lay the fuel rail off to the side. The supply and return lines to the fuel rails are flexible.

Sometimes the fuel rail can be a little sticky to get off the injectors. I just started on one of the back corner injectors and slowly worked my way around and pulled the fuel rail off. Sometimes the injectors come off with the fuel rail and sometimes they stay in manifold. It just takes some wiggling and GENTLE persuasion.

Remember that when you put the rails back on the injectors to put a little bit of pertroleum jelly on the o rings to ease installation. Do not use any silicone since that can get into the injector and clog it up. If it seems like you have to force anything then stop and look at it and make sure that it is completely unbolted. Also before you pull the fuel rails take a picture of how all the injectors and their electrical connections are situated. When I put my upper back on I didn't have all of the injectors oriented in thier original position and ended up crimping a wire and causing myself some issues.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ourobos]

Make sure you get the four rail bolts back in good also, no matter how you go about it. I left one out once, and my rail popped off, setting my engine ablaze. BTW see my post on corral.net about the tools. Good luck.

 

[crash22]

thnx for the info guys now i'll just have to find a place that's open in chrismas cuz i want my stang to run again

 

[88mustng]

am i just an idiot or are those things always a pain to gat apart even with the tool??

 

[dastang2]

not if you spray the connections with wd40 or something, and pull hard

 

[jrichker]

am i just an idiot or are those things always a pain to gat apart even with the tool??

It's a three clown job: one clown to insert the tool and compress the spring, and one clown to pull the coupling apart when the tool is properly inserted. The third clown gets gas squirted in his face because none of the clowns thought to bleed off the fuel pressure.

The pressure is removed by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail and letting it squirt into a rag. An alternate method is to pull the fuel pump relay out of it's socket and starting the engine & let run until it dies from lack of fuel.

 

[Ourobos]

It's a three clown job: one clown to insert the tool and compress the spring, and one clown to pull the coupling apart when the tool is properly inserted. The third clown gets gas squirted in his face because none of the clowns thought to bleed off the fuel pressure.


LOL

 

[RIO5.0]

The tools your after are the Green and Yellow ones...

 

[dastang2]

The tools your after are the Green and Yellow ones...

the red and white package there is the one i have and i think that one is the best since it has every size you need incase you are working on another car with different sizes