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How do I install an adjustable proportioning valve?

  • Thread starter Thread starter opihinalu
  • Start date Start date May 24, 2021
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opihinalu

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Feb 10, 2021
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May 24, 2021
#1
  • May 24, 2021
  • #1
Hey all. My stock proportioning valve is leaking out of the rubber plug at the top and I ordered a new adjustable one because those plugs aren't sold. I also ordered 2 7/16-24 Male 3/8-24 Female Inverted Flare Brake Line Adapters because I was told I would need them. I have been looking at this thing for about an hour and I don't understand how I am supposed to install it. I am a complete newbie to brake lines (and pretty much anything in my car), but I know this needs to be replaced and I know I am going to do it myself.
This it the proportioning valve I ordered (summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906). It is similar to the stock in which the front and rear brake lines go through it. I am going to be completely taking out the other proportioning valve and replacing it. The golden fittings are the 2 7/16-24 Male 3/8-24 Female Inverted Flare Brake Line Adapters and the silver fittings came with the valve and are labeled "supplied 3/8 fittings for 3/16 brake line". First off, the golden brake fittings are too big to thread into the proportioning valve, is this a problem?? The silver fittings do thread into the tops of the golden fittings. Will I need to buy new brake lines? If so should I go with steel or copper? I will need to flare the new brake lines correct? I really do not understand any of this. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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May 24, 2021
#2
  • May 24, 2021
  • #2
Steel lines have a resistance to cracking under vibration copper does not, so regular copper line is out.
Cupronickle is supposed to be easier to bend than steel and more corrosion resistant. For a DIY that you are not trying to match appearance, this sounds good.

25 ft of 1/4 Cupronickel Brake Line W/ Unions, Clips, Fittings, Tee | eBay

The most complete brake line solution on the market. 25 feet of copper nickel 1/4" OD brake line with fittings/unions/tees for 7/16"-24 (standard 1/4 tube nuts).
www.ebay.com
I did not look if this is the right size, but this is the type of line that that looks worth a try. You do not need a whole roll. A good length of steel brake line from the FLAPS is probably plenty.
For bending the lines, you will have best luck with a tool that has a spool with machined groves to keep the line from kinking or flattening out. This is a basic one that is inexpensive.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/tube-bending-tool/oemtools-professional-tube-bender-pliers/52403_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:71700000072591596&msclkid=d2215bdf02391a9245c43b74e94c25a8
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
May 24, 2021
#3
  • May 24, 2021
  • #3
Is this a stock brake setup? If so, you need to deal with the 3-2 port conversion forst, as you need to put 3 lines into 2 ports.

that prop valve is two inputs, and 3 outputs. 1 to the rear brakes and one each to the fronts.

what is the MC and brake line setup on the car?
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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May 24, 2021
#4
  • May 24, 2021
  • #4
7991LXnSHO said:
Steel lines have a resistance to cracking under vibration copper does not, so regular copper line is out.
Cupronickle is supposed to be easier to bend than steel and more corrosion resistant. For a DIY that you are not trying to match appearance, this sounds good.

25 ft of 1/4 Cupronickel Brake Line W/ Unions, Clips, Fittings, Tee | eBay

The most complete brake line solution on the market. 25 feet of copper nickel 1/4" OD brake line with fittings/unions/tees for 7/16"-24 (standard 1/4 tube nuts).
www.ebay.com
I did not look if this is the right size, but this is the type of line that that looks worth a try. You do not need a whole roll. A good length of steel brake line from the FLAPS is probably plenty.
For bending the lines, you will have best luck with a tool that has a spool with machined groves to keep the line from kinking or flattening out. This is a basic one that is inexpensive.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/tube-bending-tool/oemtools-professional-tube-bender-pliers/52403_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:71700000072591596&msclkid=d2215bdf02391a9245c43b74e94c25a8
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will look into cupronickel lines and that tool. Will I need those fittings and clips and such that those ebay lines come with?
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
19
28
Florida
May 24, 2021
#5
  • May 24, 2021
  • #5
Mustang5L5 said:
Is this a stock brake setup? If so, you need to deal with the 3-2 port conversion forst, as you need to put 3 lines into 2 ports.

that prop valve is two inputs, and 3 outputs. 1 to the rear brakes and one each to the fronts.

what is the MC and brake line setup on the car?
Click to expand...
It is cobra front discs and stock rear drums. Didn't even think of that. How would I do that conversion? The master cylinder and all the brake lines are stock. Would I be better off returning the proportioning valve I ordered and getting a new one that is only for the rear brakes and gutting the old valve? If so, would I still have to do a 3-2 conversion?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
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Kearney, NE
May 24, 2021
#6
  • May 24, 2021
  • #6
opihinalu said:
Thanks. Will look into cupronickel lines and that tool. Will I need those fittings and clips and such that those ebay lines come with?
Click to expand...
Each line you make and flare needs a flare fitting put on each end before you flare it. The clips will be needed if you find the steel lines are rusty and you start replacing more than just making adaptor lines.
As stopping is a life and death matter, it there a mentor or car club member that can supervise/help locally?
 
Last edited: May 24, 2021

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
May 24, 2021
#7
  • May 24, 2021
  • #7
With rear drums, no need to convert. I’m assuming your prop valve and lines are in Decent shape?

here’s what I would do. Return that one

buy this prop valve. It installed on the Union at the firewall

Wilwood 26010922 Break Pad Set Amazon product ASIN B019XCGO46View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XCGO46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2MSVNY88JFK6MYXP1PSS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Remove your leaky front plug, transfer the o-ring over and install this one

1979-1993 Ford Mustang GT LX Fox 5.0 SVT 87 302 Cobra Front Brake Prop Valve Plug M2450A | Front | United States

'79-'93 Ford Mustang & Fox Body Clones. Ford no longer carries the M-2450-A plug that is necessary when upgrading your Mustang's brakes. Ford Motorsport Proportioning Valve Plug for.
www.ebay.com


all done.
 
Reactions: Shakerhood and 7991LXnSHO

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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May 24, 2021
#8
  • May 24, 2021
  • #8
7991LXnSHO said:
Each line you make and flare needs a flare rotting put on before you flare it. The clips will be needed if you find the steel lines are rusty and you start replacing more than just making adaptor lines.
As stopping is a life and death matter, it there a mentor or car club member that can supervise/help locally?
Click to expand...
I see. So the flare fittings are supposed to go into the inverted flare fittings like I ordered correct? I really do not know anyone that would be able to help me with this. I'm 18 and I bought the car a year ago and have been learning to work on it since. I really have only learned from youtube and people here on the forums. I definitely need to branch out and try to find people with knowledge in these cars.
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
19
28
Florida
May 24, 2021
#9
  • May 24, 2021
  • #9
Mustang5L5 said:
With rear drums, no need to convert. I’m assuming your prop valve and lines are in Decent shape?

here’s what I would do. Return that one

buy this prop valve. It installed on the Union at the firewall

Wilwood 26010922 Break Pad Set Amazon product ASIN B019XCGO46View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XCGO46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2MSVNY88JFK6MYXP1PSS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Remove your leaky front plug, transfer the o-ring over and install this one

1979-1993 Ford Mustang GT LX Fox 5.0 SVT 87 302 Cobra Front Brake Prop Valve Plug M2450A | Front | United States

'79-'93 Ford Mustang & Fox Body Clones. Ford no longer carries the M-2450-A plug that is necessary when upgrading your Mustang's brakes. Ford Motorsport Proportioning Valve Plug for.
www.ebay.com


all done.
Click to expand...
Yep, besides the bad plug, the proportioning valve and lines seem to be in good shape. Got it. Gotta try to find the invoice for the other valve now so I can return it. Thanks.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
May 24, 2021
#10
  • May 24, 2021
  • #10
Do you have a pic of the leaky plug? I just want to make sure I’m giving you the right advice.

leaking from the small center rubber nipple in the front plug?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
2,745
194
Kearney, NE
May 24, 2021
#11
  • May 24, 2021
  • #11
Edit. Fitting, not rotting. That makes no sense.
The inverted flare fittings are supposed to go directly into whatever the line goes into and seal the line flare against leaks.
 
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opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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Florida
May 24, 2021
#12
  • May 24, 2021
  • #12
Mustang5L5 said:
Do you have a pic of the leaky plug? I just want to make sure I’m giving you the right advice.

leaking from the small center rubber nipple in the front plug?
Click to expand...

The leaky plug. The rubber nipple looks like its completely gone.
 
Reactions: Mustang5L5

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
May 24, 2021
#13
  • May 24, 2021
  • #13
What I said will work and is easier to install.


the prop valve installs in place of the Union on the pass side firewall line. If you get the 3/8-24 version that I linked, just remove the Union and thread the fitting into the prop valve and tighten
 

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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Florida
May 24, 2021
#14
  • May 24, 2021
  • #14
Mustang5L5 said:
What I said will work and is easier to install.


the prop valve installs in place of the Union on the pass side firewall line. If you get the 3/8-24 version that I linked, just remove the Union and thread the fitting into the prop valve and tighten
Click to expand...
Sounds easy enough. Do I need to gut the stock prop valve if I do that?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
May 24, 2021
#15
  • May 24, 2021
  • #15
opihinalu said:
Sounds easy enough. Do I need to gut the stock prop valve if I do that?
Click to expand...

yes. When you remove that plug, pull the prop valve out of the front. Transfer the o-ring over to the new plug and install. The valve on the firewall will now control the knee-point
 
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opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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Florida
Jun 3, 2021
#16
  • Jun 3, 2021
  • #16
Mustang5L5 said:
yes. When you remove that plug, pull the prop valve out of the front. Transfer the o-ring over to the new plug and install. The valve on the firewall will now control the knee-point
Click to expand...
Sorry to re-open and older thread, but I am just now getting to working on this. Where exactly is the union? I spent a few minutes looking for it but I don't see anything?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jun 3, 2021
#17
  • Jun 3, 2021
  • #17
It's right here

 

j753303

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Aug 25, 2020
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Jun 3, 2021
#18
  • Jun 3, 2021
  • #18
i bought the prop eliminator from MM and put a ford racing adjustable where Mustang5L5 is telling you. easy and works great
 
Reactions: opihinalu

opihinalu

Active Member
Feb 10, 2021
180
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Florida
Jun 3, 2021
#19
  • Jun 3, 2021
  • #19
Mustang5L5 said:
It's right here

Click to expand...
Got it. Just making sure because your pic is a little fuzzy this is it correct? It’s in a little different place for me so I just want to make sure. This picture is above the passenger side wheel area.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,177
17,879
224
Massachusetts
Jun 3, 2021
#20
  • Jun 3, 2021
  • #20
Yes sir. That is it.
 
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