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How do I know if my smog pump is going out?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 88CougarMan
  • Start date Start date Oct 10, 2004

88CougarMan

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Jun 13, 2000
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Flower Mound, TX
Oct 10, 2004
#1
  • Oct 10, 2004
  • #1
I have had tons of EGR problems since I bought the car almost 4 years ago. I keep throwing codes for the EGR and have cleaned and replaced it in years past but the codes still come up, on what seems like an annual basis. I threw a code last week and took the EGR off and checked for carbon build up...nothing, it still looked brand new. My question is; does the smog pump directly affect the EGR? Could this be the reason codes always pop for the EGR valve?

Sorry, I'm not too keen on the emissions crap. Thanks!
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Oct 11, 2004
#2
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #2
as my buddy was going through - the sensor on the EGR was not able to correctly read the valve position (valve had worn). someone else in here had similar issues, IIRC. what codes are you tossing exactly and what are the symptoms?

smog pumps will often actually start to (or actually) seize up. they get noisy when bearings are goin out too. it is just an air pump.

good luck.
 

cevtv

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Sep 15, 2002
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Massachusetts
Oct 11, 2004
#3
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #3
My smog pump got REAL noisy right before it locked up. What sucked is, it only started making the noise about 5 minutes befors siezing. It stopped, the belt kept spinning over the non-moving pulley, and burned through.
 

jrichker

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#4
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #4
The EGR & Smog pump (Thermactor Air System) are two entirely different systems and are not related.

Post the codes and I try to give you some good answers of what to look for & how to fix it.
 

HISSIN50

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#5
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #5
is there any sort of maintenance that one can do for a smog pump? i cant think of any..........
 

jrichker

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Don't try to lubricate it - it is a vane type pump and it needs to run clean & dry. Other than cleaning the area around it & letting it dry good before you start the engine, ther is nothing to do.
 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 28, 2003
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Oct 11, 2004
#7
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #7
I am with jrichter. It pumps air into the h-pipe for the converters. Post the codes.
 

bmorrisj

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Oct 11, 2004
#8
  • Oct 11, 2004
  • #8
check your thermactor diverter valves....the two objects with vacuum line going into them, on the rubber hose behind the pump...
 
R

raph130

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#9
  • Oct 11, 2004
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*
 

HISSIN50

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Oct 12, 2004
#10
  • Oct 12, 2004
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jrichker said:
Don't try to lubricate it - it is a vane type pump and it needs to run clean & dry. Other than cleaning the area around it & letting it dry good before you start the engine, ther is nothing to do.
Click to expand...
thank you, Joe.
 

88CougarMan

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Flower Mound, TX
Oct 12, 2004
#11
  • Oct 12, 2004
  • #11
Hey Guys, I just went back to Autozone and it came out Code 31. If I remember correctly, this might be the code I always got for years past. Any suggestions?
 

88CougarMan

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Oct 12, 2004
#12
  • Oct 12, 2004
  • #12
bump
 

cevtv

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Sep 15, 2002
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Massachusetts
Oct 12, 2004
#13
  • Oct 12, 2004
  • #13
raph130 said:
remove all that smog junk. problem solved. all it does is kill power. nothing else. not even gas mileage. i got 30mpg on the highway the other night. drove 90 miles on 3 gallons. i've removed ALL smog and egr on my engine, even the charcoal canister. its strictly built for power.
Click to expand...


Well, I just got 28mpg WITH ALL the emissions equipment intact...................
 
4

46defense

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Oct 13, 2004
#14
  • Oct 13, 2004
  • #14
I've had the same problem for years. I did finally narrow it down to the check engine light staying off at startup if the outside temp is cool. Let's say 60 degrees or below. But when the outside temp is over that certain temp it stays on at startup and never goes away. I've got all the codes that said egr type stuff, and I've replaced all that stuff and never fixed the light from coming on if it's over 60 degrees outside. One of the couple codes it throws as I remember does have something to do with the air thermactor, but I never figured it out. Right now I'm in the process of putting new header gaskets in, and I've decided to take all the smog stuff out while most of it is off already. Haven't decided whether to take out the egr stuff yet. Does a car have a permanent check engine light after you take the smog stuff off? egr? both? I think I know what you are going through. I'm just not sure if I can help, because I never could figure it out and now it appears that I have given up. Would like to know if all you guys that have taken that stuff off have permanent check engine lights or not. Thanks
 
R

raph130

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Oct 13, 2004
#15
  • Oct 13, 2004
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*
 

cevtv

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Oct 14, 2004
#16
  • Oct 14, 2004
  • #16
raph130 said:
thats pretty great. but i'll never have a malfunctioning egr or smog pump. not to mention if the egr ever goes bad thats $90 right there out of your wallet for a new one and $40-50 bucks for the smog pump.
Click to expand...


Yeah, but I won't have to worry about a roadside smog test - which they DO have in Mass. now..........
 

89CopCoupe

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Feb 17, 2004
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Oct 14, 2004
#17
  • Oct 14, 2004
  • #17
88CougarMan said:
Hey Guys, I just went back to Autozone and it came out Code 31. If I remember correctly, this might be the code I always got for years past. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Don't know about a code 31, I think it has something to do with the EVP . A code 33 states the EGR is not functioning properly. Is the EGR vacuum solenoid (located on the rear side of the passenger strut tower) working properly? If not the cost about $29 from autozone
 

jrichker

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#18
  • Oct 14, 2004
  • #18
88CougarMan said:
Hey Guys, I just went back to Autozone and it came out Code 31. If I remember correctly, this might be the code I always got for years past. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref missing or broken wire or bad contact in circuit. Check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Use the black/white wire for the voltmeter ground. Check for the same results on pin 27 on the computer. Check for continuity between the wiring at the sensor and the computer. The brown/lt green wire on the sensor & pin 27 should be less than 1 ohm. The black/white wire on the sensor & pin 46 should be less than 1 ohm. The orange/white wire on the sensor & pin 26 should be less than 1 ohm.
 
R

raph130

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Oct 19, 2004
#19
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #19
*
 

cevtv

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Oct 19, 2004
#20
  • Oct 19, 2004
  • #20
raph130 said:
theres no such thing as a road side inspection here. thats in california. nobody can be stopped by a cop and have their engine inspected when they have a valid sticker. thats illegal.
Click to expand...


Yeah, OK. You go ahead and keep on believing that............


Ma. DOES have roadside testing capability. I have seen it. It's not everywhere in the state, but it's here.
 
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