I may be a founding member, but I'm still a total nube. I know my suspension sucks at this point but don't know how to tell which parts of it I need to replace. Shocks and struts obviously but what else? Ball joints? Springs? Bushings? Steering knuckles? I don't know how to tell. It's a '94 with about 140K and no known suspension work since at least '99 when I bought it. Also, where should I get these parts? Thanks in advance, I'm lost without you guys.
How do I know what suspension parts I need?
- Thread starter im2damncool
- Start date
Springs for sure.
Ball joints will make themselves known but why wait, they aren't expensive.
Bushings usually have cracks, pieces missing or become flat, Just look at them closely.
For stock parts try http://www.rockauto.com/
For upgrades there are 100's with http://www.summitracing.com/ being among them.
You might want to consider the FRPP M5400A suspension system. This system was designed for the 2001 Mustang Bullit. Includes springs, shocks/struts and sway bars and all is engineered to work together. I've had the system for a little over three years and it always puts a smile on my face when going through curves at speed.
hotcobra03
Active Member
do it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
at 140k...i would change everything. Tie rods,springs,struts,ball joints,wheel bearings,sway bar and bushings..Use dealer parts(oem) Aftermarket parts are cheaper, but you get what you paid for,,,,,,,,,you can just do the parts that are bad now,then whats bad next month,then the month after that,,its like buying new sneakers with out new socks///just wont wear right,,,,,,,,,dont forget about the rear endit wears also
at 140k...i would change everything. Tie rods,springs,struts,ball joints,wheel bearings,sway bar and bushings..Use dealer parts(oem) Aftermarket parts are cheaper, but you get what you paid for,,,,,,,,,you can just do the parts that are bad now,then whats bad next month,then the month after that,,its like buying new sneakers with out new socks///just wont wear right,,,,,,,,,dont forget about the rear endit wears also
Yes.
IMHO it's one of those things where it's easier to replace everything all at once rather than doing it in chunks. Struts, springs if you want, sway bar bushings, end links (ES for the last two), new control arms up front (better to get the 03 Cobra arms for $160 than replacing your bushings and ball joints IMHO), rack bushings and/or a fresh rack, tie rods (check inners and outers). Consider CC plates if dropping much at all. Also consider a bumpsteer kit if dropping much at all (bumpsteer makes ya miserable real fast). Spring isolators, strut bushings (if not doing CC plates), and other crap I'm not thinking of.
That doesnt cover the rear suspension (sans isolators) either. This gets real pricey real fast. If you dont do it all at once, remember to factor in future alignment costs each time after new components are added.
Good luck.
I bought them from Summit 3 years ago but a quick search of their site does not show them.The package featured linear spring compression rates of 600 lbs/in. front and 275 lbs/in. rear, new rubber spring isolators, both anti-sway bars, sizes 28mm "Blue" front with unique bushings and "White" 21mm rear bar and specially valved Tokico shocks and struts. They cost $410.39 in 2004. Excellent value in my opinion. FRPP lists them at $495.00.
I found the link after my last reply.
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=5740
You should be able to source it from there.
Car Nut
Founding Member
The first suspension mod I wish I did when I first got my car (even after all the stuff I've got now) is subframe connectors. That really made a good foundation for everything else.
Subs can be had easily for $100. You can get full length subs from Maxiumum Motorsports for $149 (very highly recommended everywhere). Whatever you get, the subs should be squared in shape and welded on (not bolt on).
Here's a decent list in a decent order:
Subframe Connectors
Shocks/Struts/Springs (do these together)
Sway bars w/ new bushings
Endlinks
03/04 Cobra front A arms
Rear Lower Control Arms
Rear Upper Control Arms
C/C Plates (if even needed, depends on how low the springs put you)
With nothing more than the stuff listed above, you'd be really happy with your stang and it would ride way better than when brand new.
I got all my stuff pretty much through MM, but that ain't a cheap way to go. For value and some improved performance, I'd consider the Bullitt kit, MM subs, FRPP upper control arms, and MM lower control arms.
The front A arms and even a replacement steering shaft/bushings will improve steering response and feel. Depends on whether you're stuff is shot.
I'd seriously go with MM subs and RLCA's cause they're going to last you a very long time. Get it done right the first time.
Good luck and let us know what you do!
Subs can be had easily for $100. You can get full length subs from Maxiumum Motorsports for $149 (very highly recommended everywhere). Whatever you get, the subs should be squared in shape and welded on (not bolt on).
Here's a decent list in a decent order:
Subframe Connectors
Shocks/Struts/Springs (do these together)
Sway bars w/ new bushings
Endlinks
03/04 Cobra front A arms
Rear Lower Control Arms
Rear Upper Control Arms
C/C Plates (if even needed, depends on how low the springs put you)
With nothing more than the stuff listed above, you'd be really happy with your stang and it would ride way better than when brand new.
I got all my stuff pretty much through MM, but that ain't a cheap way to go. For value and some improved performance, I'd consider the Bullitt kit, MM subs, FRPP upper control arms, and MM lower control arms.
The front A arms and even a replacement steering shaft/bushings will improve steering response and feel. Depends on whether you're stuff is shot.
I'd seriously go with MM subs and RLCA's cause they're going to last you a very long time. Get it done right the first time.
Good luck and let us know what you do!
hollywoodstang
Active Member
- May 23, 2006
- 1,095
- 2
- 36
Here is what i did. And before this i had really had worn out suspension. car felt like it was wondering everywhere. After the modifications i was REALLY SHOCKED from how mustang can actually handle. here are the list:
HPM mega bite JR upper/lower control arms.
HPM panhard bar
HPM c/c plates
BAER bumpsteer kit(These are more heavy duty then anyother kit. they are stronger)
FRPP cobra front A arms(They come with new ball joints but i went with steeda x2. now front is little too low)
FRPP 95 Cobra R springs( I love these springs. They sit perfect on Convertibles 1.5 drop leveled)
FRPP bullitt front and rear sway bars
FRPP/Tokiko bullitt shocks and struts
Kenny brown metrix system including the sub connectors( I dont know about the performance but they look really cool when it's on the lift. i think just subs will do just fine)
STEEDA front control arm bushings(DONT do this! you feel more road and is rough on the streets)
STEEDA rear strut bar(I didnt notice anything different from this...)
FRPP strut bar(This either...)
18 inch rims and BF KD tires
I did all this at same time so i really felt the difference. car is really tight and handles really well on smooth freeway at really really high speed LOL. but it is little harsh on regular roads.
Make sure you set the camber/toe to "Street" spec and not "Racing" if you are daily driving, otherwise your tires gonna pay for it.
In order to put your power to the ground you NEED great suspension. I have never tried coilover set up due to too many change in components.
Good luck
HPM mega bite JR upper/lower control arms.
HPM panhard bar
HPM c/c plates
BAER bumpsteer kit(These are more heavy duty then anyother kit. they are stronger)
FRPP cobra front A arms(They come with new ball joints but i went with steeda x2. now front is little too low)
FRPP 95 Cobra R springs( I love these springs. They sit perfect on Convertibles 1.5 drop leveled)
FRPP bullitt front and rear sway bars
FRPP/Tokiko bullitt shocks and struts
Kenny brown metrix system including the sub connectors( I dont know about the performance but they look really cool when it's on the lift. i think just subs will do just fine)
STEEDA front control arm bushings(DONT do this! you feel more road and is rough on the streets)
STEEDA rear strut bar(I didnt notice anything different from this...)
FRPP strut bar(This either...)
18 inch rims and BF KD tires
I did all this at same time so i really felt the difference. car is really tight and handles really well on smooth freeway at really really high speed LOL. but it is little harsh on regular roads.
Make sure you set the camber/toe to "Street" spec and not "Racing" if you are daily driving, otherwise your tires gonna pay for it.
In order to put your power to the ground you NEED great suspension. I have never tried coilover set up due to too many change in components.
Good luck
Now as kind of a nube, can I do this stuff myself? The only things I've done so far are basic maintenance stuff, replaced the convertible top, replaced the water pump, and little stuff like that. With the right tools can I tackle the suspension myself? I know the sub frames will have to be welded and for that I'll use a shop, but what about the rest?
I'd recommend having an experienced friend help, not because of a lack of ability (you replaced a top and water pump, which show you know how to do stuff. I cant even replace a top decently). But the friend will have experience with what tools to use where, and how much force to use. My first time doing suspension stuff, I wasted a lot of time trying to be all nice to the parts. I had to step it up and use a lot of force. If I had someone to show me how things come apart the easiest, it would have helped.
That said, I'm quite sure you can do this all if you have the tools and can have some downtime (even if you don't have a friend - the friend just helps the ordeal along). Eric and others have done write ups on removing springs, and that will 'springboard' you to being most of the way to the removal of the other stuff. Check out the write-ups so you can see that this is something I think you can do.
Good luck.
That said, I'm quite sure you can do this all if you have the tools and can have some downtime (even if you don't have a friend - the friend just helps the ordeal along). Eric and others have done write ups on removing springs, and that will 'springboard' you to being most of the way to the removal of the other stuff. Check out the write-ups so you can see that this is something I think you can do.
Good luck.
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