how do i relocate the battery???

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noslow5_0

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Nov 7, 2003

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dallas tx.

Mar 23, 2004

#21

• Mar 23, 2004

• #21

wow i didnt get on here for like a day while i was fighting with broken upper control arms..... Thanks for all the feedback!!!

 

N

noslow5_0

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Nov 7, 2003

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dallas tx.

Mar 23, 2004

#22

• Mar 23, 2004

• #22

speaking of which, where can you find welders cable at??? i could have had about 50 ft. of the 1/0 awg stuff, but my dad gave it away to a freind....

 

blown1989saleen

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Aug 8, 2001

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oxford,pa

Mar 24, 2004

#23

• Mar 24, 2004

• #23

noslow5_0 said:

speaking of which, where can you find welders cable at??? i could have had about 50 ft. of the 1/0 awg stuff, but my dad gave it away to a freind....

Click to expand...

you can a search on google and come up several places to order from, or go to a welding supply store as i did. you can get the necassary lug end from NAPA.


Scott

 

stangbear427

Active Member

Nov 11, 2002

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New England

Mar 24, 2004

#24

• Mar 24, 2004

• #24

Or you can get it from any better car audio store- but it will be pricy if great quality. Or, the cheapest way is usually in a relocation kit.

 

Legendary

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Oct 10, 2002

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City of Angels

Mar 24, 2004

#25

• Mar 24, 2004

• #25

Michael Yount said:

I'd run 2 or 3 10gauge wires from the neg. terminal up to the engine compartment. I'd run one to the point where the block is grounded to the chassis, I'd run one to the computer ground point, and I'd run the other one to the point on the firewall where the head is grounded.

Click to expand...

Is this for "just in case" or the computer isn't grounded with out it?

 

8

85GTlover

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Mar 20, 2004

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Mar 24, 2004

#26

• Mar 24, 2004

• #26

Can anyone show a pic of the welding cable going under the car. I guess you just run it wherever you can away from things it should be exhaust etc?? Maybe put something around it that you could screw into underneath that would hold it secure. It seems like thick cable to me but if thats the best I will try that.

 

stangbear427

Active Member

Nov 11, 2002

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New England

Mar 24, 2004

#27

• Mar 24, 2004

• #27

Ran my 1 gauge under the carpet, wouldn't trust it outside the car myself. No problems. I've heard of guys running it through their sub frame connectors, but I couldn't have because they had end caps welded on.

 

Kid wita 5oh

I'm definitely not in the original hole

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Nov 5, 2000

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Saugus, MA

Mar 24, 2004

#28

• Mar 24, 2004

• #28

heres how im gonna do mine, track legal........

 

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Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Mar 24, 2004

#29

• Mar 24, 2004

• #29

Legendary - it is for just in case - but I think it's an important one. You'd be amazed the funky drivability issues that can be caused by a bad/dirty ground on the ecu.

An alternative I used on mine for the large cable run - I bought the most expensive ($19.99) deluxe set of 2 gauge jumper cables I could find at Wall Mart. 25' long - I cut the clamps off, and stripped the insulation back so I could solder BOTH cables into my hot battery lug. So I've got a double run of 2 gauge for the hot cable. Because the cables were more expensive (relatively) they are very flexible. They're bonded together in the insulation so routing them was easy, and I covered them in the factory style plastic corrugated cable covers to provide further insulation. Any time I was close to exhaust or moving engine parts, I sleeved the whole thing in heater hose. It's been installed for 2 years and working perfectly. No starting, charging issues at all. As I mentioned before, I did have an inductance issue, but I solved that with a separate hot wire to the stereo. Just another lower cost, but quality approach.

 

blown1989saleen

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Aug 8, 2001

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oxford,pa

Mar 24, 2004

#30

• Mar 24, 2004

• #30

Kid wita 5oh said:

heres how im gonna do mine, track legal........

Click to expand...

yep, thats the way mine is wired. my alternator charges good and the car starts good as well


Scott

 

Legendary

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City of Angels

Mar 24, 2004

#31

• Mar 24, 2004

• #31

Michael Yount said:

Legendary - it is for just in case - but I think it's an important one. You'd be amazed the funky drivability issues that can be caused by a bad/dirty ground on the ecu.

Click to expand...

And this is grounded near where the battery used to be right? The ground with two black wires coming out of it?

 

djk8705

New Member

Sep 30, 2003

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Fairfax, Va

Mar 24, 2004

#32

• Mar 24, 2004

• #32

Kid Wita 5oh- Whats that wire coming from the block? to the sway bar to the firewall for?

-Thanks

 

blown1989saleen

Founding Member

Aug 8, 2001

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oxford,pa

Mar 24, 2004

#33

• Mar 24, 2004

• #33

djk8705 said:

Kid Wita 5oh- Whats that wire coming from the block? to the sway bar to the firewall for?

-Thanks

Click to expand...

this is the setup i use, so i guess i can answer the 2ga is the engine ground and the 10ga is the ground for the ECU. Pro-m recommends a 10ga wire ran from the battery NEG- up to the original ECU ground.


Scott

 

G

GhostDog 5.0

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Apr 23, 2003

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McAllen TX

Apr 10, 2004

#34

• Apr 10, 2004

• #34

I picked out a box and have 25 feet of 02 welding cable . What are the small two wires that go to the starter solenoid ? Are those the computer ground wires ? There is a black one and a blue/red wire. Where is a good place to mount the starter solenoid ?

 

ram360

Founding Member

Oct 19, 2002

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Pennsylvania

Aug 3, 2005

#35

• Aug 3, 2005

• #35

would a bad ground or insufficient gauge positive lead wire make the car not start when it is warm. This is the problem I am having. Fires right up w/o hesitation when it's cool and won't start at all when the engine is at operating temp. I was thinking it was starter heat soak but I have a heatshield and the problem still persists. I was wondering if this was a possability.

 

Car RamRod

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Mar 30, 2005

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Queens, NYC

Aug 3, 2005

#36

• Aug 3, 2005

• #36

wow....old thread.
Anyway, Ive got over a mile of welding leads (its rediculous how much ive got).
So can you guys just give an update of how the welding lead setups are holding up?
Thanks alot