How do you instal caster camber plates????

fivelitercoupe

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Jan 1, 2004

#1

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I'm gonna be putting Caster/Camber plates on my car tommorrow and would like to know how to put them on and also how to adjust them accordingly. They are going on an 89 coupe. Any information would be greatly appreciated, thansk for your help....

 

Fox Saleen 163

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#2

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Different C/C plates are different. They should come with instructions. Adjust them by driving your Azz to a good alignment shop and telling them what specs you want. If you get stock alignment settings I will shoot you.

 

Maryland Stang

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#3

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There is a thin metal sleeve that runs through the stock CC plate. Sometimes it will get stuck on the top of the strut when you remove the stock CC plates Watch out for this. Been there, got fooled by that.

For quicky settings pull the CC plates as far to the outside of the car as they will go (away from the engine). For front to rear settings set the left CC plate about 3/4 of the way towards the rear of the car and the right CC about 3/4 of the way towards the front of the car. You will probably have to loosen the top nut on the strut to move the plates to these positions.

RM

 

Fox Saleen 163

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If you want to put the alignment back to the way it was before changing C/C plates it's simple. Measure from the tip of the strut to the firewall and then from the tip of the strut to the fender. Record these measurements. Set it to the same measurements after the install. It won't be exactly, but it will be darn close and it will get you by until you can make it to the alignment shop.

If you want it it handle really good, push the struts all the way in towards the engine and all the way back towards the firewall. Max negative camber, max positive caster. But this will wear your tires edge pretty quick.

 

MahFiVeOh

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#5

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Fox Saleen 163 said:

..................... If you get stock alignment settings I will shoot you.

Click to expand...

I'll be putting new springs and CC plates in mine real soon, what is the prob with stock alignment settings and CC plates?

 

Fox Saleen 163

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There is basically no point in getting C/C plates if you are going to use the stock settings. C/C plates, for the most part are for going beyond stock settings. Some slammed Stangs need C/C plates in order to get a stock alignment, but for the most part you're wasting your money if you don't want to use them to obtain a more performance oriented alignment setting. Other benefits depending on which plates you get include: increased suspension travel for lowered vehicles and steel spherical strut mount bushings. The spherical bushings are for better handling, I assume you don't care about that.

 

fivelitercoupe

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#7

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I really dont want to get them but afer I did my 5 lug conversion using the sn95 spindles there is so much negative camber that I dont think I can get it Back to normal with the factory caster camber plates. What do you guys think...

 

Fox Saleen 163

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How much negative camber are we talking? Yeah if you have too much negative camber and it won't adjust any further then you need some good C/C plates. I didn't know about the SN95 spindles. I hear they play with your alignment pretty good.

 

MahFiVeOh

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#9

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Sry to jack your thread fivelitercoupe but i'm trying to get as much info as i can before i start this project..........so with a 1.5 inch drop i don't need CC plates? Would stock alignment specs still apply to a lowered car?

 

Fox Saleen 163

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With a 1.5" drop you are pushing the bump steer problem and you will need C/C plates and probably a bump steer kit as well. You can probably do without both if you don't drive aggressively, but that's your decision.

I will never use stock aligment settings again, regardless of ride height. But, I drive like I'm at Indy.

 

MahFiVeOh

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#11

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Fox Saleen 163 said:

With a 1.5" drop you are pushing the bump steer problem and you will need C/C plates and probably a bump steer kit as well. You can probably do without both if you don't drive aggressively, but that's your decision.

I will never use stock aligment settings again, regardless of ride height. But, I drive like I'm at Indy.

Click to expand...

Thx for the info.....btw i drive mine like its stolen

 

fivelitercoupe

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Hey, its all good mahfiveoh, this information is for everybody and were both lookin for similar information so it doesnt bother me at all, I just have one more question are they easy or hard to put on????

 

Fox Saleen 163

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#13

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The hardest part is filing out the factory slots to make the C/C plates slide smooth inside them. And even that isn't hard. just takes some time.

 

fivelitercoupe

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#14

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I dont have to drop the struts and the springs do I, do I just unbolt the factory plates and then replace them with the aftermarket ones or am I just wishful thinking...

 

Maryland Stang

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#15

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• #15

Springs and struts can stay in the car. Just loosen the top nut on the strut, reach up in the fenderwell and pull (you may need to persuade it a little from the top) the strut through the stock plates. When you get it out of the plates just push it aside and let the top rise up and push on the fenderwell. Take a drill and drill out the rivet and then unbolt the old CC plate.

 

P

Pro-Hawk

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#16

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Fox Saleen 163 said:

With a 1.5" drop you are pushing the bump steer problem and you will need C/C plates and probably a bump steer kit as well. You can probably do without both if you don't drive aggressively, but that's your decision.

I will never use stock aligment settings again, regardless of ride height. But, I drive like I'm at Indy.

Click to expand...

I'm about to put in some Koni springs which will drop my car 1.3-1.5 also. Where do I get this bump steer kit and what would be a decent to good C/C plates. There is no way in Hell I'm driving non aggressively , this car is going to be used for OPRR ( Open Road Racing) along with eating up a few ricers on the weekends.

Also does anyone know of some decent C/C settings for a daily driver/ OPRR, something that want eat up the tires. A good web site or book will do also if can. The car is a 93' Fox.

Thanks

 

Fox Saleen 163

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#17

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www.maximumotorsports.com Not only do they explain things such as bump steer, but they sell the parts to correct the problems and have excellent customer service.

A good setup for street is +4* caster, -.5* camber with the factory specified toe. This should provide even tire wear. However, I wanted a bit more negative camber and went to -2*.

Although, your profile says you have a 93. 1990 and newer has the better tie rod ends and bump steer isn't as bad as the 89 and older Stangs. You might be okay with 1.5" or less drop if you have the 90 and up tie rod ends.

 

Matt90GT

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#18

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Oh, there is reason to replace the stock plates and use the stock settings!

It is how the strut it NOT located with the stock plates. The strut is located in a rubber donut. Thus it moves a lot. Just take the weight off the wheels with a stock plate and you can watch the top of the strut move up and down. imagine on the corners what that is like and how inconsistent your alignment is!

Thus you use a plate with a metal spherical bearing. The bearing allows the strut to twist during movement so that it does not bind. Urethane binds.


Now if you bought CC Plates that did not come with instructions, what kind of crap did you buy? All the good ones (mm, J&M, Griggs) all come with instructions. Read, follow, drive.

 

Fox Saleen 163

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#19

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Matt90GT said:

Oh, there is reason to replace the stock plates and use the stock settings!

It is how the strut it NOT located with the stock plates. The strut is located in a rubber donut. Thus it moves a lot. Just take the weight off the wheels with a stock plate and you can watch the top of the strut move up and down. imagine on the corners what that is like and how inconsistent your alignment is!

Click to expand...

Right... that's why above I said "Other benefits depending on which plates you get include: increased suspension travel for lowered vehicles and steel spherical strut mount bushings."