what everyone forgets to mention about removing the control arm bolts is, to get the front bolts out, requires removing the steering rack from the k-member. i had pulled mine out some but it still wasnt enough. had to unhook the steering shaft.
With tall springs, disconnecting the suspension at the strut doesnt always work too hot.
I am one who does the method of removing the LCA-to-K-member bolts and letting the LCA pivot on the strut. This method can work very well if you have a good, big floor jack. It takes me ~15 minutes a corner this way (the hardest part is reattaching the end link).
With tall springs, disconnecting the suspension at the strut doesnt always work too hot.
I am one who does the method of removing the LCA-to-K-member bolts and letting the LCA pivot on the strut. This method can work very well if you have a good, big floor jack. It takes me ~15 minutes a corner this way (the hardest part is reattaching the end link).
Well i had my car 95% apart, taking the ball joint off, and the end links and i had dropped the a-arm all the way and the spring was still kinda in there tight. I have done springs before this way, only it took days and its been 6 years since the last time ive done it that way. So i was going to give up, but i think ill try this method it seams logical and wouldnt be too bad? i just bought a new 3 ton floor jack which is on wheels should i use the blocks of wood under it? not sure what that will do?
It looks to me that you don't have the car up high enough to completely lower the A-arm. I lowered it (arm) almost vertical, slipped the spring into the rear of the perch, used a piece of chain as a safety and jacked up the lower arm with my floor jack. (3-ton). I've done at least 2 dozen this way and it takes about 1 hour start to finish. Make sure spring will be in perch correctly before lifting arm.
My suggestion is to use wood under the jack, not under the wheels. This will get the wheels off the ground. When you are dealing with the spring, if your jack is on wheels, the force from the spring will try to push your jack around on its wheels, and it will be impossible to hold it still. I think that is why the MFE method recommends using two bottle jacks, since they won't move. I didn't have bottle jacks, so I used one floor jack sitting on two 2x4's.
Take a look at my first post in this thread (back in December), I gave a kinda detailed write-up of how I got it to work.
If you have any specific questions feel free to ask here or PM me and I will try to help.
Jeff
Are you talking about disconnecting the a-arm from the spindle and lowering it all the way? Or disconnecting it from the k-member and lowering it?
When I did it, I tried disconnecting the a-arm on the spinde side and lowering it down all the way, and I wasn't even CLOSE to being able to put the new spring in. The car was plenty high off the ground, sway bar was disconnected, and the a-arm was pivoted as far down as it could possibly go.
Were you installing some super-short lowering springs?
Jeff
I've had the same experience as Jeff with trying to install stock height vert springs or even the Mach 1's (with the arm pivoting on the K). I think the difference in Bill's experience and perhaps Jeff's ( and mine for sure) is that I did not use a chain to help keep the spring from trying to shoot back out into my face as the arm went up.
Spring selection might also play into it: I have a pic of my stock vert springs next to the Mach 1's (and I have C's, which I can take a picture of when next to the stockers). The difference is enormous from the vert stockers to the Mach's or C's.
I still find the MFE method easiest (15 mins/side) and I feel safer doing that method *based on my experiences and what tools I have available*, and that's what really matters here. We do what we're comfy with and what works best.
seriously 15 mins a side?? you have to take nothing more off then the 2 bolts holding the arm to the K member??? (well besides the sway bar end link)
I should have said 15 mins per front spring (I don't know how long one complete side would take since I do them as fronts or as rears. I think you knew what I meant but I wanted to be clear).
It sounds like you got it. End link comes off, and the K to LCA bolts come out and that's about it. Getting the time down just comes from being a bigger guy and being familiar with how the method 'feels' (as the other guys whom do it this way would agree. Subsequent R/R's go much faster than the first). If I'm on, I can get the LCA to fit back into the K in one or two tries, which makes it real fast. A good (and big) jack is a must for doing it quickly.
I use an quality inside spring compressor.I take the ball joint loose with the car in the air and supported,let the a-arm down straight and pop out old spring.i then use the compressor and squeeze the spring together,install,jack up a-arm and then remove the spring compressor.Cake.I've never tried the MFE method,looks like a PITA IMHO.
what everyone forgets to mention about removing the control arm bolts is, to get the front bolts out, requires removing the steering rack from the k-member. i had pulled mine out some but it still wasnt enough. had to unhook the steering shaft.
That sounds like an issue with your car. I was not relatively even close the to rack, not has anyone else that I ever recall (I've read and posted on a lot of these threads. On the Corral it's called the MFE method if anyone searches).
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