I heard that! I can't figure out why these guys are having so much trouble. Just lower A-arm all the way down, spring should just fall out, replace spring and raise A-arm w/ jack.
Bill, as you can see and have seen yourself with your stangs, every car is different. Even your statement above would not apply to me (springs, front or rear, did not fall out). None of this is cut and dried - we all just offer our experiences of what's worked in case it applies to someone else.
Differing experience levels play big as well (and this is not directed at anyone, but simply a point I wanted to make about myself). I do things today that would have taken 10-20 times as long if I'd done them as a kid. The first time I ever did the "MFE" method was a LONG time ago on a double wishbone car. All I had was a 10 dollar jack. I struggled like crazy with it. By the time I got around to putting delrin bushings in said car's CA's, it was like nothin. Some stuff just fights us.
I heard that! I can't figure out why these guys are having so much trouble. Just lower A-arm all the way down, spring should just fall out, replace spring and raise A-arm w/ jack.
That works for an sn95 removing any spring and installing a lowered spring. If a person even tried that with an OEM spring on a pre-87 Stang, they would be dead with FOOL over their their grave-stone.
I finished up the passenger side today and I must say that is by far the most PITA thing Ive ever done on a car. Id rather pull an engine than mess with springs.....Removing the stock spring was the easy part. I tried putting the new spring in lowering the strut and that didnt work. I almost had a trip to the ER after trying the "MFE" method without a spring compressor and the end link removed. (Jack tipped over) What worked for me was using an internal spring compressor and compressing it about 2 inches. Then removing the back A-Arm bolts and installing the compressed spring from the back. I had to disassemble the compressor inside the spring. I ended up flat on my back while trying to remove part of the compressor with a pry bar. I think Im going to hold off on the drivers side for now while my body and pride heal. I can tell you this though, this will be the last time I ever screw with springs, if they ever have to come out Im putting coil overs on or paying someone.
On a side note I also put MM C/C plates on....I cant imagine trying to put them on without having the springs out. No real complaints with the install though, just had to file the slots in the top of the strut tower so the lower plate can slide.
What worked for me was using an internal spring compressor and compressing it about 2 inches. Then removing the back A-Arm bolts and installing the compressed spring from the back. I had to disassemble the compressor inside the spring.
This is how I did mine the first time. It drove me nuts and was a huge PITA (it's fun getting the butterflies back into the coils and shimming the stud so it doesnt hit the frame).
I'm sorry to hear the jack got tipsy. I won't even ask any more about that (I'm hoping it was a small jack. I still stand by my very early sentiments that a large jack is needed for stability).
FWIW, if you do the driver's side, it might be better. A lot of it (I think) is feel and trying a couple things to see what works for you (I do a thing or two that I have not seen others do - we all do stuff different). The first time or two, I really struggled with the MFE method myself (this was long ago with a double wishbone suspension. And a POS jack! It's very much about the jack IMHO).
Did you use the OTC tool? Yea, I have to remove the FCA bolts. And, they were rusted to the sleeves in the bushings. So, I had to spend over a day cutting those **** bolts off.
You need to have a wide board under the jack. And, I use multiple jacks.
The jack I used is a 3-ton steel jack which probably weighs 60-70lbs (much heavier than the aluminum one I have )and has a 4-5" bearing plate. I had a board under the jack and it was just the OTC tool not the ford tool. The spring is 13.5" tall with the isolator on it and the opening is 8.5 inches. I got the spring compressed 2" and then installed it and jacked it back up