How Good Does A Fox Really Handle?

I can't say I've read anything good about those SSI intakes. Do you have problems with oil leaks?
I too have the "dreaded" BBK SSI intake. Not by choice. Came with Christine when I bought her. The fuel line thing is not an issue for me, I did some crafty -an fitting magic. The stock PCV grommet does not fit snug in the intake and occasionally falls out. No its not crankcase over pressure it just dont fit tight. But the thing runs awesome with it on. Rubbed the stock hood had to do a cowl. I'll certainly be buying a Track Heat at some point so I can have a stock hood and a strut tower brace.
 
I too have the "dreaded" BBK SSI intake. Not by choice. Came with Christine when I bought her. The fuel line thing is not an issue for me, I did some crafty -an fitting magic. The stock PCV grommet does not fit snug in the intake and occasionally falls out. No its not crankcase over pressure it just dont fit tight. But the thing runs awesome with it on. Rubbed the stock hood had to do a cowl. I'll certainly be buying a Track Heat at some point so I can have a stock hood and a strut tower brace.
I have the same issue with the PCV valve lol. My intake hit on a 2 inch cowl. I had to run an intake spacer because of my tall valve covers, so I assume without the spacer, a 2 inch cowl would work.
388247_2795996577811_1195351919_3239344_1981016825_n.webp

If you look closely you can see where I had to cut the supports out.
 
I too have the "dreaded" BBK SSI intake. Not by choice. Came with Christine when I bought her. The fuel line thing is not an issue for me, I did some crafty -an fitting magic. The stock PCV grommet does not fit snug in the intake and occasionally falls out. No its not crankcase over pressure it just dont fit tight. But the thing runs awesome with it on. Rubbed the stock hood had to do a cowl. I'll certainly be buying a Track Heat at some point so I can have a stock hood and a strut tower brace.
I have the same issue with the PCV valve lol. My intake hit on a 2 inch cowl. I had to run an intake spacer because of my tall valve covers, so I assume without the spacer, a 2 inch cowl would work.
If you look closely you can see where I had to cut the supports out.

Gentleman,

I give to you: F4 Tape! *enter 2001 The Space Odyssey music here*

http://www.f4tape.com/

1 Million uses and counting
 
Definitely add frame bracing, to include subframes, jacking rails, triangulating braces between subframes and jacking rails, and the G Load brace (on the K member). I recently installed a set up from Stifflers on my 04, and it is an amazing set up. I used Kenny Brown on my 89. I also moved the rear LCA pick up points down and forward, which really helped rear traction. Aftermarket K members can typically move the front tires forward, improving weight distribution and ackerman angles, and allow moving the engine back 1", also improving weight distribution. I went with a "cheap" coil over kit on my 89, with 250# springs, without c/c plates, with a poly strut mount, and it is still working great after 150K miles. Battery in the trunk and aluminum heads also help a lot. I also went with a tubular front sway bar, and added a second rear sway bar (bolted to the frame). My 89 dances circles around my 07 Nissan 350Z.
 
Somebody's jealous. ^
:scratch: no. MM is not garbage and there are quite literally people in the tens of thousands that would line up to argue with you. I however, will not be that person. Someone who is giving technical advice and spells brakes as "breaks" doesn't compete with my Monday morning deuce. I think I'll go do that instead.
 
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Also MM it terrible. Direct bolt in my ass. I would shop around for parts that are cheaper, and easier to work with. you pay for a man and sticker. I have stickers of you want them, they won't be seen anywhere near my ride

o_O Have you ever installed MM parts? Try doing it without downing a six pack of Busch next time, they'll fit better.
 
:scratch: no. MM is not garbage and there are quite literally people in the tens of thousands of people that would line up to argue with you. I however, will not be that person. Someone who is giving technical advice and spells brakes as "breaks" doesn't compete with my Monday morning deuce. I think I'll go do that instead.

:poo:. Speaking of that, I haven't taken my monday morning yet...that's what feels so funny...

:leaving:
 
You come in here and tell the poster to ignore everything that the pervious posters have contributed to this thread all without even reading the comments, as you claim. Credibility strike 1

You give advice in a mashed up paragraph with the grammar equivalent of a 4th grader. Credibility strike 2

You comment that MM parts are terrible. That, my friend, is not a fact...it's your opinion. You claim it as being the truth, yet you back it up with no specific examples whatsoever. Credibility strike 3

You're out. Thanks for playing :cry:

I'm not coming into this thread to put MM up on a pedestal, but if you're going to knock something, back it up. It's that easy.
 
Take everything, everyone's said and forget it. I didn't even bother reading most of them. Our foxes lack two key cornering advantages. 1) lack of steering angle 2) wider stance(they are narrow and long.) I've been looking into this since 06 when "drifting" went main, main stream due to my friends leaving me in the corners all the sudden. You really just need a totaled 94-5 mustang. (V6 or V8). Only differents is the rears. V6 is a 7.5 and v8 is 8.8. Then sn models have longer A arms up front, which pushes the tires out more, so you can turn the wheel more( more angle, and wider stance. two birds,one stone) you also go five lug and upgrade to bigger breaks. You have to swap the whole front to your k-member. Due to- well I wont get into that. Use your stock k member or QA1 doesn't hurt. You must swap everything over( sway bar, rack, outter tie rods, hubs, a arms, breaks. I mean the whole thing( you may have to buy a new steering linkage) The rear if not an 8.8, you will have to go buy one separate. Few hundred bucks. Normally. The 94-5 rears are wider, rear disk, and five lug. Then you use all the cable out of you parts car for the e brake. Then all that's left is to remove the brake booster and everything that goes with it. I believe a few people have all ready done the swap. Look around more on here. Most do it for the 5 lug and don't even swap the a arms, which is sad. All you really buy is a totaled sn then you part out everything else and. And your money back. Also putting In a cage is very help full.

* it
* WTF
* difference
* brakes
* outer
* brakes
* helpful

OP, I'd suggest not taking advice from someone who doesn't even know the difference between break and brake.
 
I love spelling words wrong to get a rise out of people with no life. I have 2 mm items on my ride, neith one is anything special, and was over priced. I did not you the word garbage, I said terrible. Good job. Mayb your the one downing the sixer. Either way it's opinion, and I believe it's wrong that your try to talk down to me because I stated the truth. Keep wasting your life trying to be somebody. I'll be busy living mine.

wut?
 
I love spelling words wrong to get a rise out of people with no life. I have 2 mm items on my ride, neith one is anything special, and was over priced. I did not you the word garbage, I said terrible. Good job. Mayb your the one downing the sixer. Either way it's opinion, and I believe it's wrong that your try to talk down to me because I stated the truth. Keep wasting your life trying to be somebody. I'll be busy living mine.
Hi, is your name Jeremy?

Can your "opinion" back up the years of testing and championships that MM can?
I may be old, but at least I can spell...
Maybe
Neither
Use
You're(in triplicate)
 
Take everything, everyone's said and forget it. I didn't even bother reading most of them. Our foxes lack two key cornering advantages. 1) lack of steering angle 2) wider stance(they are narrow and long.) I've been looking into this since 06 when "drifting" went main, main stream due to my friends leaving me in the corners all the sudden. You really just need a totaled 94-5 mustang. (V6 or V8). Only differents is the rears. V6 is a 7.5 and v8 is 8.8. Then sn models have longer A arms up front, which pushes the tires out more, so you can turn the wheel more( more angle, and wider stance. two birds,one stone) you also go five lug and upgrade to bigger breaks. You have to swap the whole front to your k-member. Due to- well I wont get into that. Use your stock k member or QA1 doesn't hurt. You must swap everything over( sway bar, rack, outter tie rods, hubs, a arms, breaks. I mean the whole thing( you may have to buy a new steering linkage) The rear if not an 8.8, you will have to go buy one separate. Few hundred bucks. Normally. The 94-5 rears are wider, rear disk, and five lug. Then you use all the cable out of you parts car for the e brake. Then all that's left is to remove the brake booster and everything that goes with it. I believe a few people have all ready done the swap. Look around more on here. Most do it for the 5 lug and don't even swap the a arms, which is sad. All you really buy is a totaled sn then you part out everything else and. And your money back. Also putting In a cage is very help full.



Wow, all these years of research and understanding the technical limitations of the Fox chassis have been a waste. The articles written by people who have done both quantifiable research and actually raced their cars competitively, should be thrown out because this guy knows his stuff!
:neat:

No mention of how to correct any of the Mustangs suspension geometry sins. Nope, just make it wider! Hell, it worked for the Grand Prix?

No tech.
Go home.
Thanks for playing.
 
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I wouldn't run Strange struts on a car you want to handle. And you need to know going in that there is hardly a better example on god's green earth of "you get what you pay for" than there is with shocks and struts.

Spend the money on Bilsteins and call that one a day.
Then spend the money on coilover kits that will work with them, and call that a day. Maximum Motorsports makes Bilstein-specific kits whose sleeves are designed to fit the slightly different Bilstein housing. Everybody else makes one-size-fits-all and then people complain "coilovers are noisy".
Spend the money on height-adjustable rear lower control arms and save yourself a huge PITA swapping springs 8 times trying to get your rear ride height the way you want it. They're expensive, but once you get them, you'll kick yourself for not getting them sooner.
I'm not a fan of poly bushings on both ends of the uppers, but whatevs.
Then spend some money on a local autocross school so you can find out what snap oversteer feels like, how to anticipate it, and how to recover from it, in the safety of a 50-mph corner in a parking lot instead of a 70-mph on-ramp.


All of this. Don't half ass it. If you want your car to handle seriously, expect to pay for it, but once you do you'll get back what you put in because you'll be destroying cars that cost 5x what yours did new. Also as an added bonus, most of those expensive parts are high quality parts that will last a long time and take a beating.
 
I find it funny that the "advanced members" are attacking me just because I'm trying to help out a fellow member. Is this how everyone on here gets treated?

Because calling out the the steaming pile of :poo: you call a tech post for what it is, is the most sincere, well-directed and accurate help we might ever be able to give another member. Even though your advice about using an SN95 car to start with has some validity, since making a Fox handle well often means using a lot of SN95-sourced parts, you don't appear to be anything more than a hack-dick troll with a keyboard.
 
Alright I'm not even going to bother reading all the new posts. All I wanted to know was how a fox handled COMPARED to a newer one and if my mods (THAT I ALREADY BOUGHT) would make it handle pretty decent without having to do all the super expensive things you guys are posting.

As I've already stated, the car will be a DD. I don't need track car suspension. Just something that I'll drive everyday and then on the weekends go play on some fun roads.
 
Hi, is your name Jeremy?

Can your "opinion" back up the years of testing and championships that MM can?
I may be old, but at least I can spell...
Maybe
Neither
Use
You're(in triplicate)

actually i bet UPR has more championships on the drag strip the MM does road racing... and i bet UPR does more for the drag racers then MM does for the road racers

im not going to get into the UPR vs MM debate anymore cuz honestly im tired of hearing everyone bitch and moan like a bunch of high school girls with PMS and there thongs twisted. but if you want to go race win for race win and championship to championship UPR will win
 
actually i bet UPR has more championships on the drag strip the MM does road racing... and i bet UPR does more for the drag racers then MM does for the road racers

im not going to get into the UPR vs MM debate anymore cuz honestly im tired of hearing everyone **** and moan like a bunch of high school girls with PMS and there thongs twisted. but if you want to go race win for race win and championship to championship UPR will win

I really think this comes down to the fact that more guys drag race than road race. Simple as that. By default there's going to be more UPR equipped drag cars than there are MM equipped road race cars because there are more drag cars than road race cars. :shrug: