How long car a motor be on with no oil supply befor it goes bad?

What happens to a chromemoly driveshaft when your oil pump locks up! woo hoo! My buddy thought he threw a rod it was so loud, engine was fine though.

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wow to the pic, thing is thought, there was still a piece of the ds still in the pump and it i turned it perfectly with my hand so i dont recall it being locked up. But maybe i should pull the pan back off and inspect some more just to be safe
 
lmfao at the chromoly...

I snapped my oil pump DS just pulling my driveway. It sounded like the engine was about to throw a rod at me....so i shut it off and had a tow truck come pick it up, i might have ran the motor for 30 seconds after it snapped, no harm done for my bearings. Though i replaced the pummp and DS...and the oil twice in a row.
 
I once lost mine and drive it for about 5 blocks. Just had the lifters ticking.
So I just droped the pan and installed a new one. And I have about 20k since with 150 shot to it all the time! (the reason it locked up is b/c when I changed the valve cover gaskits there are these little metal biscuts that keep the gasket from getting squished out.... Well I learned about those the hard way! You should be fine, put some good oil in, and let it rip.
 
The oil pump DS on my old Mustang 5.0 snapped while I was about 10 miles from home. I drove it back home not sure what had happened. I replaced the pump shaft and that engine lasted another 60k miles.
 
red390gt said:
The oil pump DS on my old Mustang 5.0 snapped while I was about 10 miles from home. I drove it back home not sure what had happened. I replaced the pump shaft and that engine lasted another 60k miles.

Good to hear.. cept for only the 60k part hehe, i finally recieved my new clutch in the mail yesterday. So i slapped everything back together. New Ram HD clutch kit, Ford racing flywheel, rear main seal, and cant forget the oil pump DS. For my first clutch install it went really smooth. Started her up and oil pressure was good! no more ticking hehe!! only thing is when i first start it, it wants to die, but if i rev it up a little after i start it will be fine.. any ideas?
 
Well with any engine having no lubrication your running on borrowed tome. I've seen engines with all oil drained out of it run 10-12 mins at WOT untill dying. Surprisngly I've never seen one scatter. Just slowed down to glacier speed and it was over.

If you plan on keeping the engine I would at least check the main and rod bearings and replace accordingly. Even if your replace them who's to say that two weeks from now you won't have a rod knock? 8 miles w/o oil is 8 miles too many.

I had similar experence I had with my Coutour SVT. See the oil pumps on the Duratec engines pump oil wayyy too well. As a matter of fact they will pump oil to the heads faster than it can return it. At idle I have around 100 PIS of oil pressure! After a few seconds it will drop to 40 psi and 60 while cruzing.

Long story short I went WOT before letting oil pressure stabilize (stupid me...I was in a hurry). I literally blew off the oil filter immediately! I drove about 10 blocks before I noticed the idiot oil light flashing. That was a good enough excuse for me to put in a 3 litre duratec (stock it comes with 2.5L). Dang now you can do a 331 or 347. I bet you'd hate to do that!
 
haha yea i will eventually pull the engine down the road, i plan to do a blown 331 in the future when my money gets right :), im just crossing my fingers and hoping it doesnt cause me any problems in the meantime
 
jstang209 said:
haha yea i will eventually pull the engine down the road, i plan to do a blown 331 in the future when my money gets right :), im just crossing my fingers and hoping it doesnt cause me any problems in the meantime


I see. If you need a conn rod/rods I have a few layin' around here that I can send ya.
 
I had a T bird with a 460 that I made into a derby car. When I first got it it didn't have a distributor, and being an ex chevy guy, I picked up a used dual point and dropped it in, without the drive shaft. I did burnouts with it daily for at least two weeks, and couldn't figure why it ran hot and sluggish after a few minutes. When I finally figured it out, we dropped the pan and found TWO good driveshafts that had fallen out of the bottom of the dizzy. Pulled a main and a rod cap, and bearings weren't into the tri metal yet, and the crank had micro grooves but was still smooth. I ran it in three derbies till I lost all my water, and shut it down. Once it cooled off, I drove it back to my shop doing a burnout for friends. No one uses good iron like FORD.
 
A little advice from a pro at changing oil pumps. I put a GT-40P motor in my car. I put a new oil pump and all when I installed it. It had like 10,000 miles on it when I bought it. Drove it for about 2,000 miles and lost oil pressure while driving down the road. I heard a noise and watched my oil pressure drop. I killed the engine and coasted to the next drive. Towed it home replaced the oil pump and rod. It was candy cane and snapped in the middle. I cleaned the oil pan out and put new oil in and drove it another 2,000 miles when the thing broke in a welders driveway. Same thing happened. Snapped!! I noticed small flakes in the bottom of my pan. MAIN BEARING debris! I cleaned it out and put a new pump and rod on it and traded her off. I only had the thing run for like 20 seconds total between the two breaks. All of them were from shavings locking up the oil pump. Take the extra precaution and buy a $150 crank kit(crank and bearings). Any time without oil is too much time without. Brother-in-law changed his distributor and didn't have the clip on his shaft. Needless to say he missed on installing the shaft and cranked it without the shaft in right. 30 seconds without oil and the crank bearings were brassy and scored when we pulled the caps. Spend the extra $150 now and have peace of mind. He has had no problems since.