BlackVert
15 Year Member
going to coil-overs, but selling your mmr coil-overs ... hmm ... changing coil-overs?DARK-5.0 said:
How Low = Too Low?
- Thread starter SeventyMach1
- Start date
Mike, sorry man. If I find something good I might jump on it. It's hard to describe the feeling I get everytime I look at my 4x4, lol. I just can't take it anymore.
Thanks for all the help guys.
Dan, I think the place you were referring to might have been http://www.stangsuspension.com What do you think of their Bullitt kit?
Thanks for all the help guys.
Dan, I think the place you were referring to might have been http://www.stangsuspension.com What do you think of their Bullitt kit?
xkuntrycowboyx
Member
subscribed for the literature! 
...and ya, where did that pic filled forum go about ride heights???
...and ya, where did that pic filled forum go about ride heights???You don't need pictures to see how much better Mustangs look w/out the 4X4 look.
Go for it--but you'll need to spend some cash.
Get C/C plates ( I used Steeda 4 bolts) to get a decent alignment and GOOD shocks ( I used Tokico 5-ways) to get a decent ride.
The results are an excellent smooth ride & this combo rarely bottoms out for me.
Go for it--but you'll need to spend some cash.
Get C/C plates ( I used Steeda 4 bolts) to get a decent alignment and GOOD shocks ( I used Tokico 5-ways) to get a decent ride.
The results are an excellent smooth ride & this combo rarely bottoms out for me.
94-302-vert
Active Member
I have the FRPP C springs and right now I am running a 225/50/16 front tire and it is too low. I have bottomed out and hit my vert k-brace on the road a few times...
Back to the top.
What Jeff (ES Stangin) posted above (quote from MM) is exactly what I was referring to in my other thread. On a stock K-member, offset rack bushings DO NOT HELP.
Anyway, as you all may know ... I ordered the H&R SS's, MM c/c plates, and Fox N.A. Tokico HP's. Unfortunately, H&R screwed up my order & now that it's straight, they won't be here for another few days. (BTW, Josh at StangSuspension.com is excellent to deal with. This was not his fault. It was the supplier.)
So now I'm wanting to get the Steeda bump steer kit. My question: if I do, do I also NEED to get the x2 ball joints?
What Jeff (ES Stangin) posted above (quote from MM) is exactly what I was referring to in my other thread. On a stock K-member, offset rack bushings DO NOT HELP.
Anyway, as you all may know ... I ordered the H&R SS's, MM c/c plates, and Fox N.A. Tokico HP's. Unfortunately, H&R screwed up my order & now that it's straight, they won't be here for another few days. (BTW, Josh at StangSuspension.com is excellent to deal with. This was not his fault. It was the supplier.)
So now I'm wanting to get the Steeda bump steer kit. My question: if I do, do I also NEED to get the x2 ball joints?
Methodical
15 Year Member
Lowering your car without upgrading the crappy stock shocks and struts will cause you to bottom out. You need better shocks and struts to properly dampen those newere stiffer springs, bottom line. Plus those stock struts and shocks are old and worn and now you will install newer equipment and are ask those old tired things to support them - it won't.
Here's my experience with lowering a Mustang. Prior to installing the MM coilover kit, I cut my stock springs and left the stock struts and shocks in and I bottomed out on every pebble in the street. I believe this may have had something to do with my rear sway bar cracking
. This was back in 1996 and the shocks and struts were only 1 year old. Then I upgraded to some Monroe GP formula shocks and struts in 1996 that were designed for lowered cars and I never bottomed out again even when I hit some of those famous DC potholes.
In April of this year, I upgraded my entire suspension with MM coilovers front and rear with the Bilstein sport valve shocks and struts and other components (see sig). All I can say is the car feels like it's on rails. Bottoming out - what's that. On top of all of that, I can adjust the ride height as I wish. Current ride height when measured from top of the wheel weld to the ground is 25 7/8th (FR) and 26 1/2" (R). I don't how much of a drop from stock it is because I don't know the stock measurements but front wheel sits very close to the wheel weld. Again, I have no problems with rubbing, bottoming out, turning issues or tire wear, etc etc. The coilover kit is worth it's weight in gold and has maximum adjustability.
Bottom line here is you will need to upgrade some of the other supporting parts as money allows. Keep that in mind and you will be far more happier.
Here's my experience with lowering a Mustang. Prior to installing the MM coilover kit, I cut my stock springs and left the stock struts and shocks in and I bottomed out on every pebble in the street. I believe this may have had something to do with my rear sway bar cracking
. This was back in 1996 and the shocks and struts were only 1 year old. Then I upgraded to some Monroe GP formula shocks and struts in 1996 that were designed for lowered cars and I never bottomed out again even when I hit some of those famous DC potholes.In April of this year, I upgraded my entire suspension with MM coilovers front and rear with the Bilstein sport valve shocks and struts and other components (see sig). All I can say is the car feels like it's on rails. Bottoming out - what's that. On top of all of that, I can adjust the ride height as I wish. Current ride height when measured from top of the wheel weld to the ground is 25 7/8th (FR) and 26 1/2" (R). I don't how much of a drop from stock it is because I don't know the stock measurements but front wheel sits very close to the wheel weld. Again, I have no problems with rubbing, bottoming out, turning issues or tire wear, etc etc. The coilover kit is worth it's weight in gold and has maximum adjustability.
Bottom line here is you will need to upgrade some of the other supporting parts as money allows. Keep that in mind and you will be far more happier.
you do not NEED the X2 ball joints.
if you are getting a bumpsteer kit then i would recommend getting the bumpsteer alignment tool from mm.
its not as easy as slapping it in and going.
good luck and keep us posted.
i also have some new front end "goodies" coming soon---suspension parts make me happy
if you are getting a bumpsteer kit then i would recommend getting the bumpsteer alignment tool from mm.
its not as easy as slapping it in and going.
good luck and keep us posted.
i also have some new front end "goodies" coming soon---suspension parts make me happy
Thank alot Ben!
One more .....
Will MM's tool work with the Steeda kit? Or is that kit supposed to come with a tool?
One more .....
Will MM's tool work with the Steeda kit? Or is that kit supposed to come with a tool?
Okay, I'm still trying to figure out what tool your talking about. Are you referring to the "toe gauge" that goes for around $120? If so, I won't worry about that. I'll let the alignment shop do that.
SeventyMach1 said:
the tool i am guessing is universal as its a big sheet of something that goes in front of your hub and lays on the ground and has a dial caliper and lines and stuff.
it more or less has convinced me that i don't want a bumpsteer kit.
with a 1.5" drop bumpsteer is tolerable enough.
SeventyMach1 said:
Okay, I'm still trying to figure out what tool your talking about. Are you referring to the "toe gauge" that goes for around $120? If so, I won't worry about that. I'll let the alignment shop do that.
go to http://maximummotorsports.com/ search under tools and you will find a bumpsteer gauge for $120
you can also go to installation instructions and see how to use it.
94fordmustanggt
New Member
As far as the rear goes; when I bought my 17x10.5's for the back they hit the quad shock. I don't know how much it is lowered though. All you have to do is flip them over. The company I purchased the wheels from told me if the rear was lowered 1.5 inches or more then you will have to flip them.
