Electrical How many amps could an amp draw draw....

I wouldn’t mind playing around with the innova one. I’d like to just try it out, but I feel most of the features would probably never get used by me and are more of a novelty.


On vehicles, I’ve done resistance, voltage, continuity, DC amperage and capacitance. That’s really the core stuff that you need. Anything else is a bonus but even I’d likely never use it.
 
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Back in the day us techs needed one that read hertz
To check the map sensors
Quickly found the substitute known good part method of checking the map sensor was the best method
Have a new ford map sensor in my toolbox to this day
You no longer need to check hertz much
The red one above should be okay
 
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Back in the day us techs needed one that read hertz
To check the map sensors
Quickly found the substitute known good part method of checking the map sensor was the best method
Have a new ford map sensor in my toolbox to this day
You no longer need to check hertz much
The red one above should be okay
Agreed.
I still would also like an Oscilloscope and a meter that checks capacitance without the hassles taught in electronics class years ago. But a basic HFT meter with better leads is what I usually use.
The three choices listed should all have good enough accuracy and high enough resistance to not mess with circuit voltage readings.
 
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Okay, so finally got the brand new Klein MM600. Got it hooked up and it shows no draw whatsoever. I did the test with a light bulb and hooked the meter inline, it would not light the bulb, kept messing with it, it finally lighted up the 1157, and then it stopped. It will not light up the light bulb at all now.

I have to say, I'm about sick of this. Time to return the brand new multimeter that was just opened an hour ago. :mad::mad:
 
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My method to ensure there is a connection is to open the driver door and stick the key in. The door chime should come on and the dome light will be on. This may add .25 amp, but if you are troubleshooting a multi-amp draw it will not matter.

You really need a good strong connection. I have a set of leads with alligator clips; but I’ve done it with the standard leads. Take sandpaper or a battery terminal tool and really clean up the terminals and the connections: keep trying it with the door open and when you get a good connection you should get that door chime.

I’ve had issues making a good connection myself. As I’ve put the electrical back together on my car and rewired it, I’ve done spot checks to make sure dont have excessive draw. Each time I have to scuff up the battery termins to really get a solid connection and get a reading.
 
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Thank you, Mike. I have done that, and that's when I went to a new battery in the garage with a lightbulb (1157) to make sure, as previously stated by 7991LXnSHO, that the meter is working correctly. Hooking the meter up inline, on the same 10a setting, I cannot get the light bulb to even light up. I checked the connections and the light bulb lights up fine with the multimeter noy inline. It is a brand new meter right out of the sealed package, and it will not show me nay amperage at all.

My initial thought was that I blew the fuse, but that seems highly unlikely, as the MM600 said it it has a blown fuse, it will read "LEAd" on the display, which it does not. Unfortunately, I don't know what else it could be, but this multimeter will get returned tomorrow. It also makes me nervous to try another Klein meter, as I don't have the time to keep making purchases and returns....needless to say, it is getting a little frustrating.
 
Just a quick update for those of you following along. Rather than returning the Klein MM600 to Home Depot (which I was going to o today), I decided to contact the company directly and explain exactly what had happened. I sent an email yesterday, trying to understand what went wrong.

Today, I received a phone call from Klein, and spoke to one of their head techs. He asked me a few questions, so I explained to him the steps I took, one by one. He acknowledged that I did take the correct steps, and that the meter should have worked. They are sending me a replacement right away, with a paid return label to send this unit back to them directly, as they want to see what went wrong. He said they fully back their products 100%, and want to make sure that this issue does not happen to anyone else.

Although it has been a frustrating process, I have to say I am very impressed with their dedication to making things right.

Hopefully it will be here quickly, and we can get back to finding that damn draw. Happy Monday!
 
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It should be there close to Christmas :hide:
Wayne, you win!!

You were not wrong. I did receive confirmation today for returning the multimeter...and it states up to 4 weeks for replacement. :nono: I called them and told them to cancel the RMA, because if I did not need the multimeter for a month, I would not have purchased it when I did.

I will just return it to the store where it was purchased, and then try to find another brand worth buying. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Sometimes you just have to laugh.
 
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Wayne, you win!!

You were not wrong. I did receive confirmation today for returning the multimeter...and it states up to 4 weeks for replacement. :nono: I called them and told them to cancel the RMA, because if I did not need the multimeter for a month, I would not have purchased it when I did.

I will just return it to the store where it was purchased, and then try to find another brand worth buying. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Sometimes you just have to laugh.
Man i hate that. And i hate that i jinxed you! I was just kidding.... Who knew.
Another note..... Buy any good meter because it's a tool that you will never regret buying or spending a little extra on. So many uses. I'd say find a good brand local and just go with it. Most all the good ones cover all we would need. Like i said, mine was $40. And i got it because my buddy loaned me his Amprobe Pro meter. I looked it up....$250! Nope. Not for me. So i looked at their other lineup. I found the one i posted above for $40. Got it in. Sat it beside my buddies and there's not a nickel difference. Mine is almost as heavy. Feels very well made. So I'm happy with it.
 
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Wayne, you win!!

You were not wrong. I did receive confirmation today for returning the multimeter...and it states up to 4 weeks for replacement. :nono: I called them and told them to cancel the RMA, because if I did not need the multimeter for a month, I would not have purchased it when I did.

I will just return it to the store where it was purchased, and then try to find another brand worth buying. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Sometimes you just have to laugh.

Same thing happened with a TV. Bought it, bright it home and it didn’t work. Brought it back to the store the next day “nope, you gotta call Brand X and ship it them for repair”

Repair? It’s a day old? I’m not shipping a 55” plasma TVs that weighs 200 pounds! (This was around 2001)

Flip over receipt and show them the “return within 30 days for ANY reason” and they begrudgingly accept it.

Stroll into store, buy another one and 20 years later that TV is still kicking.
 
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Just gonna toss out some ideas and maybe something will hit or help.

harbor freight is your friend. You can get a cheap meter that will do the trick for like $7 and a test light for around $3. If I recall, the cheap meter also uses cheap fuses, so you can pop it a few times before it actually fails and not have to buy an expensive fuse. I would start by testing for short to ground on power wires. It sounds like something is shorted out and killing your meter in the process. Also, just a side note, this is a just in case thing, 1, make sure you switch your lead to read amps, 2 when you change the dial, make sure the leads are disconnected from power... both will blow a meter.
 
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Just gonna toss out some ideas and maybe something will hit or help.

harbor freight is your friend. You can get a cheap meter that will do the trick for like $7 and a test light for around $3. If I recall, the cheap meter also uses cheap fuses, so you can pop it a few times before it actually fails and not have to buy an expensive fuse. I would start by testing for short to ground on power wires. It sounds like something is shorted out and killing your meter in the process. Also, just a side note, this is a just in case thing, 1, make sure you switch your lead to read amps, 2 when you change the dial, make sure the leads are disconnected from power... both will blow a meter.
Thanks for the tips, Chase.

Yes, I know I can get a cheapo at HF, or even a little more at a Walmart or a Big Box store....but I wanted a "better" DMM, which was why I went with the Klein. That is a good point about making sure the leads are not connected when switching between settings, which is why I only use one alligator clip when testing. Unfortunately, this one was bad out of the box. I tested the voltage to make sure it would give a reading, then changed the settings and leads to 10a, and could not get a reading at all. Those were the only 2 settings used.

Things do happen, so I appreciate the input. If nothing else, it is a good reminder to not get in a rush and start changing things up without verifying.
 
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Cheap meters may not have the ability to read DC amps over 1amp. That’s a feature that is usually found on better meters, although it’s starting to trickle down .
 
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I have a meter stuck in virtually every drawer. Some are better than others and cost considerably more than others.

I've had my Fluke meter since high school. I also have at least two El-cheapo meters that are older than that.

I cannot recall an instance where I just had to have the Fluke meter because it's my [good] meter.

Here's all you need:

71fTKJkNjWL._AC_SL1500_.jpg



If you order them in a 6-pack and toss one in every drawer, you'll never have to go looking for it. :D

The accuracy is well beyond what is necessary for our archaic electrical systems. :O_o:

You'll get the best mileage out of [any] meter with a good lead kit (extensions, clamps, etc...). They are the extra set of hands that you always cussed about not having. :shrug:

81+RK5IP1zS._SL1500_.jpg


I like the kits that have both extensions and spring clips.
 
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