How many have degreed their cam?

Did you degree your new cam

  • Yes

    Votes: 10 45.5%
  • No

    Votes: 9 40.9%
  • Plan on degreeing it

    Votes: 2 9.1%
  • Degree-Great Deoderant

    Votes: 1 4.5%
  • Degree-Master's in B.S.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    22
I did it with the .050" way or something. IT's the best way if your intake lift and your exhaust lift are different.(FTI custom cam for me) Cams like the Ecam (both .498 for the intake and exhaust lift) can be degreed with the intake centerline method.

Get a new timing chain with retard/advance options. Mine has 9keyway positions. FMS-M6268A302
 
I just did mine for the first time about a month ago. It was a lot easier than I originally thought it would be. After figuring everything out, it was a half hour job. I ended up having to advance mine 2* to get the opening and closing events correct. At first I was changing both the cam and crank gear so they remained dot to dot. This turned out to be incorrect and I spent a few hours trying to figure it out. It is only necessary to move the crank gear position, and leave the cam in its original position.
 
Thanks for the info, I just got my Summit camshaft degreeing kit in the mail. I called around to most part stores and engine builders in town but they didn't have anything they could rent out.
 
The .050" method is what I used, but it the WRONG method for a cam with non-symetrical lobes. We are supposed to check it with the valve timing events provided on the cam card like highhorseb did. You did it wrong just like me Stangfreak...
 
On an FTI cam, you're really supposed to degree it -- Ed doesn't provide specs that rely on dot-to-dot installation. He provides a cam card with valve timing events on it and instructions to degree it one way or another depending on the car. Who knows what you'd end up with dot-to-dot.

Personally I'd degree *any* cam, because the crankshaft keyway can easily be a couple degrees off, and that makes quite a difference in the performance of any cam.

Paul -- the next time you have the top end of your engine apart (:D there's always a next time) ... it'd be interesting to find out what you have it degreed at according to the valve timing specs Ed provided.

Dave
 
Dave, that is already a plan!!! I too want to see where its at. I think Ed does too. Honestly I had it like that for a year before I knew we did it wrong, but by that point the car was running faster than I had hoped it'd do, so it was left alone!
 
zenboy, I just installed my FTI cam and I stuck it in dot to dot because no one had one for me to use and I don't want to buy the 100 kit to use it once. Would you be a life saver and let me borrow it. I'll pay for the shipping both ways. You can ask Paul, I am a trust worthy guy. I just don't want to have spent all this money on my h/c/i and not even degree my cam in. Are you interested. Thanks

[email protected]

Jeremy
 
Killercanary said:
The .050" method is what I used, but it the WRONG method for a cam with non-symetrical lobes. We are supposed to check it with the valve timing events provided on the cam card like highhorseb did. You did it wrong just like me Stangfreak...

I'm suddenly very confused. Every specs on the cam card we followed and found with the .050" way. Tell me more cause I'm freaking out here.

I still think we did it the right way. All the stuff I read on this.
example
 
There are two methods to degreeng a cam in:

1) Intake Centerline Method - Must have Symetrical lobes for this to be correct.
2) Degreeing by using valve timing events which is where the 0.050" comes in. Paul was confused...this is the correct way to do it and is more accurate. The 0.050" corresponds to the lift at which the degree measurements on the cam lobes are measured at. The IC method uses a 0.050" measure to but it is for a different purpose.

I did more research on this than I did my entire senior year in college combined :)

If you get the Summit Cam Degree Kit, do NOT use the instructions for degreeing provided in the kit. Go here:

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf

Read that a minumum of 3 times until you understand what the process is. You will see they show both methods and the 0.050" method is the more accurate way for the asymentrical lobe cams. This is the way you want to degree in your cam if it is from Ed.

I degreed my FTI cam in and it was off by 3 degree when lined up dot-to-dot...this was down 3 times to verify. I advanced it two degrees and it is pretty much close to being dead on.

If you have any questions concerning the process, shoot me a message and I can help you out. You will have a much better understanding once you read those instructions and get the kit. You can mock it up and it will make a lot more sense, trust me.
 
I did my FTI cam and found my combo to be off 4°. Remember that this also effects piston-to-valve clearance.

I'd recommend doing this to anyone. It really wasn't hard to figure out how to do it. Just gotta have the tools.

Rick