How much is involved in converting 4 lug to 5 lug?
- Thread starter 66nightMARE
- Start date
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
It all depends what you want. I did the Cobra Brakes on my car and did all of it by myself, its not that hard.
ChromdOutDubs
Member
There not a crazy amount of stuff to do and i didnt think it was too difficult. Im 18 and i almost did it all by myself, the parts will will prolly be the hardest to get (finding them) I got all my stuff off a 1995 GT: Spindles, rotors, complete rear end, calipers, everything, for around 400 bucks. I won the aution on ebay for the rear end, and when i got there, he had every othe rpart i need to finish the conversion, i was pretty lucky... I had to make a bunch of trips to the local parts house for the brake lines and all the different fittings and stuff. All in all its not all that bad, and gives you ton of options for wheels. You don thave to take out the entire rear end you can just swap axles, I know its ranger axles but im nit sure if its the passenger or the driver sides. Like i did, i got the complete rearend, so it was good, not sure if yur car has 8.8 in it, if not, i would try to find a complete 8.8 to drop in there. I got pics of the entire assembly and disassembly and everything, so if u would like to see if ill be glad to post em up.
-AJ
-AJ
bubba-dough
Active Member
Yeah it just depends on what you are looking at doing. Do you just want 5 lug or do you want to run any type of 5 lug wheel? Do you want all wheel disc.
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
l
http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/5lug.html
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
l
bill302
Active Member
Redfire 05
New Member
It depends on whether you are going with rear drums or discs. If you do discs then you will have to swap the master cylinder and brake booster. Swaping out the rear axles is suprisingly easy. Swaping the spindles is also quite easy. But to do the brake booster first you have to remove it. The bolts aren't really easy to get to. You'll have to enlarge or drill new holes for the brake booster as the bolt pattern is different. Then on pre 91 (or maybe 89 I forget) cars you have to 'massage' the driver side strut tower so the sn95 brake booster will fit. That sucked. It seemed like I beat on the strut tower for days before it was finally right. Then you will have to adapt your proportioning valve to master cylinder brake lines to work with the new master cylinder. For me that was a big problem because my 86 had SAE fittings, but the SN95's have ISO. I had to make my own lines because noone had adapters. Here is a website that has a pretty detailed write up with pictures for a rear disc 5 lug set up. It's is all doable by yourself if you just exercise some patience.
http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/sn95conversion.html
http://www.mustangmotorsport.com/sn95conversion.html
Pod
Member
There is this kit I'm looking at on 50resto.com
LRS-4234K 5 lug conversion kit
Sounds good, but I don't know anything else about it.
LRS-4234K 5 lug conversion kit
Sounds good, but I don't know anything else about it.
bubba-dough
Active Member
Its like using Ranger axles (although this kits are suppose to be stronger axles) and SVO/Lincoln rotors. You will be limited on some 5 lug wheels.Pod said:
iwashmycar
20+ Year Stangneter
EDIT: bubba-dough got in before me lol
thats the one i went with....EXTREMELY easy to do. The ony part i was skeptical about was having to dig into the rear end, but it was a few simple bolts. That kit comes with all new bearings and seals and oil. Just have to rent a bearing puller.
The problem is that you cannot run alot of rims with this kit due to the giant dust caps like on the factory rotors (the new ones are the same but with 5 lugs). I wanted to run my waffles and tribars, but if someone ever handed me a set of Bullitts then i might be screwed....its a toss-up, but for the money you cant beat it without goin to some junk yards ( I have yet to find a stang in a junk yard around here..anywhere)..
-adam
thats the one i went with....EXTREMELY easy to do. The ony part i was skeptical about was having to dig into the rear end, but it was a few simple bolts. That kit comes with all new bearings and seals and oil. Just have to rent a bearing puller.
The problem is that you cannot run alot of rims with this kit due to the giant dust caps like on the factory rotors (the new ones are the same but with 5 lugs). I wanted to run my waffles and tribars, but if someone ever handed me a set of Bullitts then i might be screwed....its a toss-up, but for the money you cant beat it without goin to some junk yards ( I have yet to find a stang in a junk yard around here..anywhere)..
-adam
Pod
Member
Can you just leave the dust caps off, if that's the only part which causes problems?
There are definitely no mustangs in junk yards over here, so something like that would be ideal for me (being on a tight budget...)
There are definitely no mustangs in junk yards over here, so something like that would be ideal for me (being on a tight budget...)
iwashmycar
20+ Year Stangneter
its not just the caps that cause the major problem, its the whole hub assembly that sticks out too far
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
I did a budget 5lug swap, lincoln rotors, ranger/aerostar (research which side to pull, i can't remember) axles on the cheap. Cost me like $25 per axles (eye'em down to make sure their not bent - i learned the hard way driving down the road = wobbly) and rotors $10per. I did however spend more for new seals, bearings, turning rotors, brake pads, resurfacing drums, bleed brakes..... so about $250-300 total for the swap. Then I forked over another $200 for '99 rims w/tires from a buddy. Fyi lincoln rotors won't work with 17" with center caps. Even if you hammer down the dustcap it still won't fit. 16's however are supposed to fit, but don't quote me on that. Save the extra bucks and get 94 or 95 spindles, the 96+ will work but will stick out further 5mm on each side. It you still decide on 96+ spindles get a set of taurus ball joints for extra length to thread your nut... better yet get a sn95 steering rack. I heard the sn95 steering rack swap is soooo worth it - it doesn't feel as floaty.
I have a quicky question on this... are sn95 front rotors a direct fit on the 87-93's? and what drums fit over all the stock brakes in the rear, I have rear axles and i want to do this as cheap as possible. one more thing, how do you know if you have 28 or 31 spline axles and how can you make 31s fit 28 if even possible?
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
fastfox86 said:
It is nice having everything brand new in the Box as you install it, knowing that you wont have to be changing somethig shortly. I did take the time to file and sand off all the sharp edges and primer and paint everything so it would look good years to come.
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