how much low end lost with E cam and 1.7 rockers on stock 5.0

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stang2841

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Jun 12, 2004

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palm harbor florida

Dec 17, 2004

#1

• Dec 17, 2004

• #1

I got a deal I cant pass up with an E cam and 1.7 rockers

with mods in sig, how much low end will I lose?


would summit buy springs that would support that cam on my stock heads? got a 20 dollar certificate to them so might as well use it...


with mods in sig and E cam I'm thinkin a shiftpoint of 5650ish?


what will be the total lift on the E cam with 1.72 rockers?

 

Funanin

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Nov 26, 2001

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Horsham, Pennsylvania

Dec 17, 2004

#2

• Dec 17, 2004

• #2

total lift with 1.72rr = .535

You will definitly notice a difference i think but u wont be dissappointed. The duration of the ecam is real low and closer to stock than any other letter cam. you will definitly see some difference above 2500 and yea u will need to replace those springs with a spring kit of ur choice to be able to handle .600 lift just to be safe. Then u would not want to shift under 6k otherwise no point in having ecam. I also heard that u might have some PV clearance issues with that kind of lift on the stock heads. The elders will have to elaborate...

 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master

Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Dec 17, 2004

#3

• Dec 17, 2004

• #3

It's hard to say, but I believe it will be significant. When Buddy modeled my Y heads/1.7's/65 tb/75maf/Explorer intake set up with the E compared to the custom he made for me, we picked up torque over the E all the way from idle to about 3500 rpm - and it was significant - from 40-90 lb-ft (not a typo). Yes, we lost a some at peak, but I was happy to trade off 15HP at peak for 90 lb-ft down low.

There's no way I would do what you're contemplating. Mileage and drivability will suffer for little if any gain in performance. Also, the E will overwhelm the stock valve springs - valve float at 5K or so is quite common when people try to use the E with stock heads - ESPECIALLY with 1.7's - that's .528" peak lift. Don't be tempted by the dark side - it will not be worth it no matter how little it costs.

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Dec 17, 2004

#4

• Dec 17, 2004

• #4

By the way the E is the same cam as Crane's PowerMax 2040 - here's what they recommend with that cam:

GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. (50 STATE LEGAL 85-93, C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-46) BASIC RPM 2400-6000

 

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stang2841

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Dec 17, 2004

#5

• Dec 17, 2004

• #5

I can get the whole set up for 75 bucks and I got everything that Crane Reccomended minus the aftermarket Heads...


I can install all this myself, all I'll need is some springs


would the B any better with the 1.7 Rockers? I know they would be less lift but loads more Duration and thats gona murder my low end

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Dec 17, 2004

#6

• Dec 17, 2004

• #6

My opinion remains the same - but it sounds like you've already made your mind up - so good luck with it. The best single performance modification made to mine was removing the E cam and replacing it with a custom.

 

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stang2841

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Dec 17, 2004

#7

• Dec 17, 2004

• #7

this is being done on a budget... and when I get some good cylinder heads I will probably go to a custom cam...

but for now I want to have fun with stock heads and the way my engine revs now is horrible..


would there be any P/V clearance issues?

where should I set my idle at?

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Dec 17, 2004

#8

• Dec 17, 2004

• #8

The idle speed is controlled by the computer - there's no idle speed to 'set'. Some cars have more success than others getting the computer to 'learn' a new idle. I had mine set at 1000 rpm to try and get enough vacuum for a decent idle -- and even then I could only get 11" of vacuum with the E. And even then it surged and wandered all over til I got a chip and reset the idle in the ecu.

My point is - I believe your fun factor with your car will not improve by adding the E to your combo - but rather will get worse. Putting a cam in because you got a good deal on it is a TERRIBLE way to select the proper cam for what you're trying to accomplish. But - most of us have to learn this the hard way - so go for it and have fun learning. I suggest you hang onto to your stock HO cam for a while afterwards. You may want to put it back in.

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Dec 17, 2004

#9

• Dec 17, 2004

• #9

Oh - the ONLY way to know how much p to v clearance you'll have is to measure it on your engine. Each engine is different - what someone else says happened on theirs is not transferable to yours. I believe you'll find when you do that you'll have enough clearance, but you must measure if you want to know. You're looking for a minimum of .080" intake/.100" exhaust.

 

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stang2841

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palm harbor florida

Dec 17, 2004

#10

• Dec 17, 2004

• #10

I'll keeep the HO cam handy...


I know it might be a disaster but if it doesnt work out I'll keep the stock components and sell the rest for more money..

 

Michael Yount

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Apr 10, 2002

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Charlotte, NC

Dec 17, 2004

#11

• Dec 17, 2004

• #11

"I know it might be a disaster but if it doesnt work out I'll keep the stock components and sell the rest for more money.. " For someone on a tight budget, why does this approach make sense to you?

 

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I3oostedCubes

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Oct 25, 2004

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Dec 17, 2004

#12

• Dec 17, 2004

• #12

Had E cam in mild set up, hated it.

 

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stang2841

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palm harbor florida

Dec 17, 2004

#13

• Dec 17, 2004

• #13

I bought it now its decision time...


I'm gona talk to a few ppl and see hard it is to install, or how much it would cost to install