How much power do you think I could make...

[DrScientist]

How much power do you think I could make, while still getting something that resembles stock fuel economy? In a 1994 Mustang GT. I wouldn't mind losing a MPG or two, but for right now while I am still in college, I'd like to keep the gas mileage closer to stock than an all out hot rod.

So what kind of power do you think I could make, while still getting close to stock gas mileage? I'm thinking that I can make somewhere in the area of 320HP. But how can I achieve this? What mods should I do, that won't affect fuel economy too much? I know exhaust of course, but beyond that... I'm not sure. Perhaps a trickflow intake? But then don't you have to have heads and a cam to go with it?

 

[ProKiller]

i would do exhaust and a supercharger and call it done. that will give you stock gas mileage when keeping out of boost but will give you plenty of power on the top end.

 

[DrScientist]

Yikes, a supercharger is a little outside of my budget, as I'm currently still in college and can't really work all that much. Even if I could, of course my job sucks since I'm an undergrad so I wouldn't be able to afford it. I guess I was kinda hoping someone might come up with some budget power mods.

 

[Black1987]

I would start with gears first. As far as the intake needed the heads and cam, no you can just install the intake by itself. After the gears, if your goal is around 300ish a mild shot of NOS is probably the cheapest route, and the car maintains its original MPG. Just remember that car has hypers, so don't overdue the shot or boost. I recommend a K&N filter, adds horsepower and MPGs.

 

[Adam95GT]

Yikes, a supercharger is a little outside of my budget, as I'm currently still in college and can't really work all that much. Even if I could, of course my job sucks since I'm an undergrad so I wouldn't be able to afford it. I guess I was kinda hoping someone might come up with some budget power mods.

Then dont touch it. Gears will make you loose MPG... Jut bump timing up a little bit and remove the air silencer. Then add an exhaust....

But i dont know how you think your going to be over 300hp without spending a decent amount of cash...

Forced induction you can save gas by staying out of boost.

However if you do HCI you going to loose some mpg, same with a bigger engine (stroked or swap)

These are really your only options to get you to 300hp other then just slapping a large shot on it.

 

[revhead347]

The blower is the way to go for fuel economy.

Kurt

 

[final5-0]

Couple of things to think about

If you are talking about 320 at the motor

Thats only around 270 to the wheels......
that is if you got a stick trans

That is not much of a challenge even for a NA combo

Also if you separate in town and highway mileage it makes a real diff

When on the road you are in a light load condition at legal speeds
therefore
The pcm will just sip gas at that time

Now ... The problem we all have when driving around town in a Stang
with a bit of power is we can't drive like a little old lady

Simply put ... Its hard to get good mileage when you have more fun
by the amount you use the skinny pedal

You should be able to get 20 mpg highway give or take a bit with the
goal you listed

Grady

 

[DrScientist]

Alright thanks for all the replies guys. But yeah I was talking about 320HP at the motor. Maybe I should shoot for 350 at the motor. But just curious... how much actual power is made by removing the air silencer (that's that little screen, right?) and advancing the timing a few degrees? Just something I've always wondered.

 

[Black Stampede]

Alright thanks for all the replies guys. But yeah I was talking about 320HP at the motor. Maybe I should shoot for 350 at the motor. But just curious... how much actual power is made by removing the air silencer (that's that little screen, right?) and advancing the timing a few degrees? Just something I've always wondered.

You will notice nothing.

 

[GTA_V6_Mustang]

Put an exhaust on it and spray it. Your mileage will be the same then when you want power you just open the bottle

 

[ProKiller]

if you can't afford a blower (used can be found for under $2k), the i say keep the car stock and put some nitrous on there. everything else even on a budget will come to almost 2k unless you are very savvy and get good deals. A junkyard explorer motor is a good $500-600, installing all of it is another $200, not to mention supporting mods (injectors, maf, t/b, headers) will net you a good $500-600. so right there your at like 1,700. that puts you in used vortech territory.

gt40p budget build motor = 270hp
vortech on stock motor = 300hp

what kind of cash do you have saved up now?

 

[DrScientist]

None LOL. But I'll have a little here and there so I guess I'll just do the whole craigslist bargain shopping thing. I'll probly be pretty short on cash until I graduate in a couple years and get a job. But, its no big deal and that's why I was asking about staying somewhere in the area of stock fuel economy.

However, maybe what I should be looking into is a "chip". I heard you can pick up 10-15hp with a superchip. Then I can just bolt on a craigslist trickflow street intake for another 10HP and buy some exhaust for another 10HP. I could slowly but surely afford that stuff. Sound like a good idea?

 

[ProKiller]

yes with the exception of the chip. don't waste your money on it until you get h/c/i or a blower. you won't notice it and you'd be better off spending the money elsewhere.

 

[Black Stampede]

For the love of god don't buy a chip. If you want cheap bang for your buck get a used midpipe, some mufflers, and some underdrive pulleys.

Clean your mass air meter asap as well. It is likely dirty and slowing your car down.

 

[DrScientist]

Just had to put a brand new mass air meter on cause the old one died lol. Well, a refurb from orielly's but you get the idea.

Thanks for all the advice though. So I'll skip the chip till I get heads and a cam and intake. But now I would like to ask... what do you mean by a "midpipe"? I think I might know, but I want to be sure we're thinking of the same thing. You mean like an Xpipe right?

 

[toyman]

I wouldn't rush into changing the mid pipe (H or X it's the section between the headers and mufflers) if funds are tight. I do not see the cats as a restriction that affects performance on an otherwise stock engine. From my readings it's more a sound thing with certain owners.

 

[revhead347]

Just had to put a brand new mass air meter on cause the old one died lol. Well, a refurb from orielly's but you get the idea.

Damn, you should have posted up here first before you bought one. I've given all the stock MAFs I have away, but I'm sure just about everyone here has a stock MAF in their garage they would have sent you for the cost of shipping.

Kurt

 

[final5-0]

Another thing about the mid pipe

Like all mods ... you wanna think way ahead
or
You need to have a long term goal for your Stang :Word:

In the case of the mid pipe

You wanna decide on what kind of headers you are going to run

You need one type of pipe if running shortys
and
You need a different type if running LT's

Not doing your due diligence on mods will certainly cost you money

I'm just saying

Grady

 

[99FiveOh]

Over the years I've seen dyno proof that an aftermarket H pipe does indeed increase power, pretty nicely! I've seen anywhere between 10 and 20hp increase both in magazine articles and dyno day events. Those stock cat h-pipes are really small, have some nasty bends and have 4 cats (2 pre and 2 regular cats). I'd say they are a HUGE restriction in exchaust flow. Now, aftermarket cat backs vs stock is debatable. Usually when you see a complete exhaust swap then a dyno run, most of the power increase is from losing the stock H pipe.

Aftermarket catted H pipes are nice and the power difference from an O/R H pipe is only just if at all. Since O/R H pipes are so inexpensive it should be right up there at the top of your parts list!

And a blower will make a LOT more than 300 hp to the tires on a stock engine, I have personal experience on this one. I thought I'd only make 300-350 rwhp, ended up with 425 rwhp on the dyno, boy was I stoked! But the price of a supercharger gets hefty when you factor in the fuel system mods (will be about 5-600 bucks fuel pump/injectors/MAF) then you figure in 350-500 or more to have it properly dyno tuned which is a MUST for forced induction, especially on these motors with Hypercraptic pistons. With a tune, the fact that they are crappy cast pistons is a moot point.

Good luck with whatever you decide and above all else, don't let this car stray you from your studies!!

 

[Black Stampede]

Just had to put a brand new mass air meter on cause the old one died lol. Well, a refurb from orielly's but you get the idea.

Thanks for all the advice though. So I'll skip the chip till I get heads and a cam and intake. But now I would like to ask... what do you mean by a "midpipe"? I think I might know, but I want to be sure we're thinking of the same thing. You mean like an Xpipe right?

H or X, yes. The header point is true, so you should consider that as well. Midpipes will free up power, but even aside from that the sound is awesome too. Not everyone can afford to drop tons of money on their cars when they first get them so doing something enjoyable like making it sound really nice can keep a smile on your face for a long time while you save money for more expensive mods. I am a BIG proponent of having a plan so you do things right the first time, but if someone knows they wont have alot of money to drop for quite awhile I see nothing wrong with finding a cheap midpipe and mufflers on craigslist.