how much to get springs compressed and banded?

jmd2914 said:
i tried doing it by unbolting the a arm from the k member while still having the tie rod and strut bolted up to get the spring in, the spring fits in fine, its just that whenver i try and jack the arm back into place, it wont line up with the bolt hole, and when i try and put my bbk springs in, it actually pushes back against the jack and just makes the jack roll backwards
I put my foot in front of the jack to keep it from pushing out. You have to physically push the jack/a-arm back in to line it up.

BTW, spring compressors scare me
 
grn92conv said:
I put my foot in front of the jack to keep it from pushing out. You have to physically push the jack/a-arm back in to line it up.

BTW, spring compressors scare me

The Correct Ford Style Compressor is not scary at all, it weighs about 13 Lbs, you dont have to worry with it!!!
 
true but arent they like $200? i just need to find a way to get this spring back in, i tried putting my foot behind the jack but the new spring isolators kept makin the spring slip out of the back of the cup. will having the tie rod connected make any differance?
 
Oreillys has some rentals tools that we had to use. The bolt goes through the MIDDLE of the spring, not on the outside.... use an impact to pull them down..... then once in the car, you have to get the hold downs finaggled down through the center and let them fall out the A arm hole.

Worked like a charm once we found the right tool. The spring compressors that go on the OUTSIDE don't work. :bang:

Drag launch springs are slightly taller than the stockers in the front. :)

Edit: Just noticed I posted outside the 94-95 section. LOL
 
jmd2914 said:
true but arent they like $200? i just need to find a way to get this spring back in, i tried putting my foot behind the jack but the new spring isolators kept makin the spring slip out of the back of the cup. will having the tie rod connected make any differance?

Make sure that the Pigtail of the spring is positioned between the 2 holes in the Lower A Arm!
 
jmd2914 said:
i tried putting my foot behind the jack but the new spring isolators kept makin the spring slip out of the back of the cup. will having the tie rod connected make any differance?
Yes, sir, it will make a difference.
When I'm doing spring, the only things I unbolt are the anti-sway bar and the A-arm from the engine cross member.
 
i made sure the pigtail was down in the cup, but the new isolators arent letting it sit down in all the way, will this change once i get the car off the jackstands and it had the weight of the car on the spring? and i ended up putting my race craft springs back in, they were shorter ( for those of you following the thread)
 
HISSIN50 said:
GF, those are for jacking up an existing (installed) spring an inch or two (or compressing them) for aesthetics (like if you have saggy springs or want to drop a spring a tiny bit).

They do work as i have used them before. I compressed 2 coils enough to slide the spring in after i lowered the a-arm all the way down.


When i had to reinstall stock springs, i banded them, but i had the machine that used steel strapping. The difference between banding and hose clamps is the hose clamps have holes while the bands are solid. I did 3 bands and it held fine, but DO AT YOUR OWN RISK.

I've tried the AZ spring compressor and it sucked.

I also tried the remove the a-arm method and hated it as well.


Rear springs are a joke. Unbolt the quads and shocks and the rear drops low enough to pull the springs out by hand.