For pedestal mount - Rotate the engine so the pair you're working on are on the base circle of the cam, i.e. - those two valves are closed. Tighten them by hand until they are at zero lash - no gap on the valve stem or push rod end; then torque them to 18-20 lb-ft while counting the number of turns it takes to get there from zero lash. They should hit the specified torque between 1/4 and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, place a shim under that rocker - each .030" shim reduces the number of turns to the spec'd torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn to hit the torque, then you'll need longer pushrods.
For stud mount, same except, simply tighten them 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero lash, then lock them down.
i put a set of 1.7 rockers on my car, and me and the guy who put them on didnt rotate the assembly or anything...we just lined them up and tightened them down. they havent come loose or anything. its the same thing he did on his friends stang that runs 9's. i dont really think it matters as long as you get them tight
ECU - there's a saying -- "every now and then even a blind squirrel finds an acorn". Great that you got lucky; but there is a proper procedure for installing the pedestal mounts and just bolting them down tight is not it. There are other people that regularly post who tried the same thing and have problems with noise and with them coming loose; or they discover they've got geometry problems before they start the car up. That's the real reason for the procedure - to let you know if you've got a problem before you start it, and possibly really hurt something. If you're absolutely certain your geometry is correct - bolt away.