I'm about to order the replacement parts for my engine rebuild. I know the pistons are crap and I used to think the rods were junk too but lately I"ve talked to a few people and seen some things that might change my mind. For example: DSS uses race prepped factory rods on their 4.6's up to 750 hp. Now I'm never going to approach 750 hp with my motor but it may see as high as 500-550 with the nitrous(someday). Considering the price of forged rods up here in Canada(over $1100 with taxes) if I could get away without them,that's a big chunk of cash I can spend on something else. Does anybody have any specific ideas? I need solid info here,not just opinions.
How strong are factory rods?
- Thread starter Red2000GT
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I would be more worried about the rods than the pistons. If your'e going to spend that kind of money anyway you might as well do it right. I haven't spoken to a tuner/engine builder yet that feels comfortable with using stock anything, other than the crank, in a high hp 2v application.
Rods and pistons have been known to let go on these motors. Get the forged ones. Also get a good oil pump. Keep your stock crank, they are pretty stout.
Shop around and you will get some decent prices.
Shop around and you will get some decent prices.
JohnnyLangton
Founding Member
GTblack_00
New Member
Well, I was going to say hmmm.........WHO LIED TO YOU????
Stock rods are crappy cast powdered unknown alloy mystery metal,
I would trust the crappy pistons way more than the crappy rods they give us. I give factory equipment 350rwhp DD maybe. Other than that, you need forged internals, crank can be an exception.
I havent heard nice things about DSS.
Josh.
Stock rods are crappy cast powdered unknown alloy mystery metal,
I would trust the crappy pistons way more than the crappy rods they give us. I give factory equipment 350rwhp DD maybe. Other than that, you need forged internals, crank can be an exception.
I havent heard nice things about DSS.
Josh.
wjfawb0
Founding Member
Don't tell all the guys making 350+ rwhp with the Steeda tune that they need to replace their rods. You'd make several hundred people very upset. Of course anyone making 350+rwhp is better off with aftermarket forged pieces.
I hope to make around 400rwhp with the stock block on my GT with the Steeda tune (hopefully next month). Before I go any further with porting and polishing and other internal mods to the motor, I'll get a forged shortblock. That is probably years down the road unless I win the lottery.
-wjfawb0
I hope to make around 400rwhp with the stock block on my GT with the Steeda tune (hopefully next month). Before I go any further with porting and polishing and other internal mods to the motor, I'll get a forged shortblock. That is probably years down the road unless I win the lottery.
-wjfawb0
FastRedPonyCar
Founding Member
Yeah doesn't steeda use all factory internals for the Q400?
Only saleen forges stuff in the S281-E i think.
Only saleen forges stuff in the S281-E i think.
I run almost 400 rwhp on stock internals and have for 5500 miles now. My tuner feels comfortable running 425 or more in some cases rwhp. It's all in the tune. The Q400 uses stock internals and I believe even the Q400 Deluxe (425 rwhp) uses stock stuff. One thing to remember is that a motor can let go at 300 rwhp just like it can at 400 rwhp.
SmithAtlanta
Founding Member
wjfawb0 said:
Any one that puts any type of power adder on their car needs to prepare for these possibilities. Even with a perfect tune things can break or wear out. I hope it doesn't but I know it could.... I started a rebuild fund when I bought the charger(although I dipped into it to get an intercooler).
if i can find my paper work ill put it in this thread on how much it cost in parts on forged internals.its not too expensive,while ur in there u should put a cobra steel crank,h beam rods,forged pistons,arp hardware,shm timing chain adjusters,7 qaurt oil pan and other misc. stuff.
this might be kind of pricey but its well worth it in the long run.
but this is just my .02 cents
this might be kind of pricey but its well worth it in the long run.
but this is just my .02 cents
Snydaleid
Member
STANGateURlilSS
Founding Member
not to change the subject... but i to have heard bad things about d.s.s. and had to do a rebuild on a few after just a few hundred miles.. there tolerances are all over the place..
back on subject.
hell stock rods and pistons have let go on non power adder motors.. with bolt-ons.. of course when adding a power adder it is always better to run forged internals.
back on subject.
hell stock rods and pistons have let go on non power adder motors.. with bolt-ons.. of course when adding a power adder it is always better to run forged internals.
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
get forged rod. if your gonna compleately rebuild it, why take chance? it is cheaper to do it now, than later ya know. I rebuild my old MR2 befor, and just becouse it was with in spec, I reused rod, and replaced everything else. and look at the pic below to see what happened.
Similar threads
