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How the hell do you get the @#$%ing fuel pump out!!???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pokageek
  • Start date Start date Nov 19, 2005

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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46
MA, USA
Nov 19, 2005
#1
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #1
It won't come out and I tried to get the fuel tank all the way down too but the darn fill tube gets stuck. How do I get the old fuel pump out? Lines are connected is tyhat causing the problem? If so, how do I get those off??? ARG!!
 

WhiteDevil

New Member
Feb 4, 2003
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San Diego
Nov 19, 2005
#2
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #2
you need to get a fuel line disonnect tool, to get those lines off the tank, then get the filler tube out then the tank will sit on the ground. Then u can get the pump out
 

18mustangs

New Member
Jun 8, 2005
533
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Virginia Beach, VA
Nov 19, 2005
#3
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #3
Pokageek said:
It won't come out and I tried to get the fuel tank all the way down too but the darn fill tube gets stuck. How do I get the old fuel pump out? Lines are connected is tyhat causing the problem? If so, how do I get those off??? ARG!!
Click to expand...

As White Devil stated, you'll need the fuel line disconnect tools (they can be a PITA). Then you'll have to slide the tank to the left in order to get the fuel tank off of thr filler neck. Then you'll need to get a screw driver and hammer or a similar tool in order to rotate the lock ring, once removed you can lift the fuel pump hanger out of the tank, but you'll have to rotate the hanger when removing and when reinstalling it in order to get it around the fuel sump. I know you've already started, but depending on where your car is there may be corrosion making this a lot harder than it should be. You may need a new lock ring and seal. Also be careful when removing the fuel lines, my fuel return line )the metal one on the hanger) was so rusted it broke off. I had to buy another hanger (which only came with a stock fuel pump). Fox stangs have a fuel pump hanger with 5\16" return line and my SN95 had a 3\8" return line which nobody realized until we tried to install it. Make sure you bring the stock part if you do need to order anything as to compare it to ensure it's the correct size.
Tim
 

mytight95

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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46
Dothan,Al
Nov 19, 2005
#4
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #4
it is highly recommended to use a brass punch or something like that to remove the lock ring on the pickup..



jason
 

S/CBlack95GT

New Member
Apr 6, 2003
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Tampa Palms, FL
Nov 19, 2005
#5
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #5
You dont even need to remove the lines. Just unbolt the filler neck and drop the tank. Then use a brass punch or a block of wood and spin the lock collar. After that you can pull the pump assembly out. Just remember how the assembly was arranged in reference to the tank. Also make sure you take notice of how the sock filter is put on. The filter and pump assembly must be put back in the tank the same way. There is a little tray the whole thing fits down into.
 

GRGT1994

New Member
Sep 22, 2004
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Nov 19, 2005
#6
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #6
This past summer I did my gears and HCI with supporting mods (including fuel pump). And I hate to tell you but the fuel pump was one of the hairest and most frustrating parts. So run some searches and read up for some suggestions. I'll try to remember a few things.

For one, those fuel lines are a major pain. Make sure you have depressurized the fuel system (trip the shutoff in the truck or disconnect the fuse, then run motor till it stalls). Then use a disconnect tool. If fumbled with the tool for 30 minutes (seriously). Then with I finally got it off, it just slipped off like butter. I can't tell you what did it, maybe I loosened it up by fumbling so long, maybe I finally hit the right alignment. I don't know. Just work at it patiently, and when you get frustrated, get up and pop open a beer.

The filler neck can pull out of the tank. There is a rubber grommet right where it enters, and it appearantly can come out here. I never took the filler neck off, just worked on it with the tank lowered.

Before you tap the lock ring off (brass punch), vacuum off and clean around the opening. You will probably have a ton of dirt on the top of the tank. I did. Lots of miles and the fact that no car wash hits in there add up. But you don't want any of that crap falling in your tank.

Once you have the lock ring off, your pain is just begun (if it's anything like my experience). The fuel pump and filter bag are big and bulky and awkwardly shaped. Worse yet, the baffling in the tank (to minimize fuel slosh) become your enemy as they prevent you from swinging the pump where you need to in order to guide it out. Here again, use patients, LOTS of it. Stop for a beer or two along the way. You will probably need to rotate the fuel pump assembly one way or two as you attempt to negotiate it out. Once you get it out, you may feel like you just gave birth.

Then as you try to put it back in, I suggest you first start with a 6 pack. You will need that to keep your nerves in check, because putting the pump back in makes everything that came before seem like a walk in the park. The baffling and that damn fuel filter bag conspire to ensure busted knuckles and a declining attitude. Again, the trick seems to be a strategic rotation once you get the assembly in the precisely right position.

If you are replacing the pump (or the filter bag), mark and remember the precise orientation that the filter bag sits to the assembly in the stock setup. This will make getting the thing back in a little (tiny little) bit easier.

Another suggestion here might be to pull the tank all the way off. I didn't do this, but in retrospect, it might help. That would give you another hole to shine a light in (from the filler neck), or maybe even try to reach in and guide the pump from. Also, there is another opening into the tank (cant remember what it was for) but you might want to use that for light/guidance.

OK, I am being a little over dramatic here. But trust me, working around the baffling with that pump can be a pain.

Good luck, and cheers.
 

18mustangs

New Member
Jun 8, 2005
533
1
0
Virginia Beach, VA
Nov 19, 2005
#7
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #7
One more suggestion, since you've already dropped the tank, you should replace the rubber fuel neck seal grommet on the side of the tank with a new one as they have a tendency to dry rot and crack. No sense in dropping the tank twice!
Tim
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
0
46
MA, USA
Nov 19, 2005
#8
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #8
Thank you all including GRGT1994. I used all of your tips and had to drop the tank to get it out. It took nearley forever and I did this in 35 degrees. Yuck. But I got it together and it is done now. This was more work than putting the TW heads on. Not kidding. Thanks for your help though, X 3 guys.
 

GRGT1994

New Member
Sep 22, 2004
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Nov 19, 2005
#9
  • Nov 19, 2005
  • #9
Hey congrats! That's no small feat.

Pokageek said:
I did this in 35 degrees. Yuck.
Click to expand...

If only we all could work in temperature controlled shops! I yanked and replaced my fuel pump in humid 90+ degree weather. Not fun either.
 

Methodical

15 Year Member
Dec 1, 2003
1,192
11
59
Clinton, MD
Nov 20, 2005
#10
  • Nov 20, 2005
  • #10
Pokageek said:
It won't come out and I tried to get the fuel tank all the way down too but the darn fill tube gets stuck. How do I get the old fuel pump out? Lines are connected is tyhat causing the problem? If so, how do I get those off??? ARG!!
Click to expand...


Pokageek you've been busy. Is the change the result of the TwEECer/EA tuning recommendations.

Also after all that work don't forget to put that sucker in your signature.

Peace
Al
 
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