how to clean heads good after porting??

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
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Miami, Ok
my e7 porting project is going great, but is taking a while, i have worked all the exhaust bowls, blended them together, deleted the EGR bumps, and port matched intake and exhaust, smoothed out b/w the pushrod holes. And started blending the intake bowls. This is only one one head, lol its going to take a while. I need to get a carbide burr so i can really reshape the valve guide boss' and smoother stones to smooth the ports.

but anyway, there is metal shaving EVERYWHERE. how do i clean these heads after done with porting?? they will be int he coolant passages, and also the egr tunnel thingy.
 
Good job Brett, you gotta get some pics man, id like to see the process get some pics of that one finished and of the other one you havent started to compare. Are you gonna get some flow numbers on them?

Sorry cant help you with the cleaning process, but im hoping to learn so i can maybe do mine. And becareful with those metal shavings i read some nasty stories.
 
Yea nice job, I always take pride when I can say I did everything myself.....I always use Simple green and a brush when I clean mine of grease and grime and rinse it out with a hose , but a pressure washer would prob be a real good idea, or a Steam Jennie if u have access to one and a parts washer like someone mentioned. then blow everything dry with an air gun. Make sure u look through all the valve guides and such with a flashlight and make sure theres no filings or burrs. BTW i think they make a little brush to clean out the guides with. and chasing all the threads with a tap would be a good idea too
 
yeah i will take some pics when i remember to take my camera :(
i think i will snap pics once i get one head done and compare.

i would like to get some flow numbers on them but i cant really think of a place to go.

and it should most definatly flow better, the e7 exhaust ports are horried, just by feeling it, you can tell it sucks. but wiht some effort and patience, it looks alot better.

bday is coming up, using the cash to get a 3 angle and new valve springs and valve locks should be good to go with my motor swap then.

then income taxes YAY
 
Make sure you dont get them baby's ass smooth, you want them somewhat rough to keep the fuel atomized in the air. Im sure you know what your doing, tips always help though. and port matching the exhaust to the head can be bad sometimes, because of exhuast reversion, in which the exhaust gas is pushed into the header tube its compressed into a small space. There are two directions it can travel, back into the port and down the header tube. Usually you want a slightly larger diameter header tube than the port to help focus it down the tube instead of backing it into the port. Of course you should have no poblem with this. My dad is wearing off on me, sheesh. Just wash them, blow them dry about four times and go over them with a fine tooth comb after each washing. Tap all threads, check the water jackets. I actually put little pieces of duck tape over the water holes when i ported my heads, helped alot.
Oh and after i washed them in tranny fluid, i dried them off with air and then sprayed some spray can oil on just about every square inch and then blew them dry. I found that the oil helped the fillings stick together and helped clear them easier. Just a tip...
 
Oh and i found these on a website about Reher-Morrison, its an engine builder school in Texas, hope these help you some;


Why Rough-Finished Ports Work

The port surface found in a Reher-Morrison race cylinder head features a definitive texture. It’s difficult to describe, but here’s a good analogy: Think of it as a miniature culvert. A series of visually detectable grooves follow the shape of the port. The grooves aren’t the result of sloppy workmanship. On the contrary, a good amount of work goes into to creating the surface finish. Why? The answer is simple: The flow quality improves.

The bowl of the cylinder head is the area of the port immediately behind the valve head. The bowls in most cylinder heads are bored with a vertical mill. Typically, this leaves a sharp transition to the balance of the port, which in turn can create turbulence and port restrictions. Reher-Morrison explains that modifications to the bowl area of a cylinder head can contribute to as much as 35 percent of the total flow of the port.
 
If the port is to smooth, the fuel actually groups together into little droplets and droplets dont burn as well as fully atomized fuel. The slight roughness actually creates a small amount of turbulance that helps mix the fuel and air better. You want a dullish finish to the ports, and you want the port to taper slightly from the mouth of the intake torwards the bowl, you want it to taper slightly, not a huge difference, air doesn't like to turn, or go from a wide space to a narrow area. Everything must be nice and rounded and slightly scuffed up, use some scotch pads to put a finish on the ports. Plus you want to knock any sharp edges down. In the combustion chambers you want to smooth the sharp edges also, sharp edges can cause detonation (Dont take alot out, just smooth and be done in the combustion chambers, taking to much out will lower compression.) Just remember, air doesn't like to turn abruptly, think of it as a narrow, back country road and trying to drive, you have to constantly turn and this makes you slow down, now think about the highway how the turns are nice and gradual and gently, you can travel faster. Same thing with air in ports.