how to fill in the holes left from my spoiler??
- Thread starter ItsStock02
- Start date
Silverstang02GT
New Member
If he is any good it will match. or you could save money for now and - Temporary Removal of the Spoiler
Flghtmstr1
Member
If you've never done bodywork and/or don't want to do it yourself, just have the guy fill the holes in.
However, I would recommend doing it yourself. It's not difficult, and it's neat to be able to say you did it yourself. Here's how I did it:
First, I sanded the sections of the decklid where the holes are with an 80 grit paper. Then, I filled the decklid holes in with some bondo short-strand fiberglass filler, wait for it to cure, and sanded it smooth with the 80 grit. Make sure to check for air pockets at this stage. The fiberglass filler is relatively porous and rough, so you will need to use some glazing and spot putty on the area to make for a good, even surface for primer to adhere to. Sand the glazing putty to whatever the primer recommends (probably 180 grit), then apply several thin coats of a high-build primer. This will insure a smooth, even surface upon which the paint can be applied. The primer should be wet-sanded with a GOOD sanding block, slowly working up to 1000 grit or more. Make sure to feather the edges of the painted and primered sections so that they are the same relative height; otherwise, you will be able to see where the holes used to be even after paint.
However, I would recommend doing it yourself. It's not difficult, and it's neat to be able to say you did it yourself. Here's how I did it:
First, I sanded the sections of the decklid where the holes are with an 80 grit paper. Then, I filled the decklid holes in with some bondo short-strand fiberglass filler, wait for it to cure, and sanded it smooth with the 80 grit. Make sure to check for air pockets at this stage. The fiberglass filler is relatively porous and rough, so you will need to use some glazing and spot putty on the area to make for a good, even surface for primer to adhere to. Sand the glazing putty to whatever the primer recommends (probably 180 grit), then apply several thin coats of a high-build primer. This will insure a smooth, even surface upon which the paint can be applied. The primer should be wet-sanded with a GOOD sanding block, slowly working up to 1000 grit or more. Make sure to feather the edges of the painted and primered sections so that they are the same relative height; otherwise, you will be able to see where the holes used to be even after paint.
I met with the guy yesterday. I thought he was going to be younger, but he's older and is pretty experienced from what i've heard. He looked over the trunk and said $200 for everything. There's also a decent sized mark between my headlights on the front bumper where the car got hit with an egg and he said he'd take care of it no problem.
Im dropping the car off the 17th and I'll have it back in two days.
Im dropping the car off the 17th and I'll have it back in two days.
