How to Fix the Annoying Wheel Hop

[2010_LS1H8R]

when i took my GT to the track i did not know what to expect especially since i had just broke it in and had not launched hard on it at all. on the first run, i noticed that it wheel hopped like a mother. on my second run i deflated the tires and ran a better time and had way less wheel hop. i was thinking of doing the UMI upper and lower control arms with the relocation brackets. does anyone have that type of set up and how does it affect your daily and track driving?

 

[Ken04]

when i took my GT to the track i did not know what to expect especially since i had just broke it in and had not launched hard on it at all. on the first run, i noticed that it wheel hopped like a mother. on my second run i deflated the tires and ran a better time and had way less wheel hop. i was thinking of doing the UMI upper and lower control arms with the relocation brackets. does anyone have that type of set up and how does it affect your daily and track driving?

part of it is the flimsy upper and lower controls arms that come stock. They have a lot of flex to give a better, less harsh ride. And part of it is geometry. Lowered cars don't hop because the LCA geometry is changed. The rear mount being lower than the front mount of the LCAs. Good for drag racing but bad for road courses because of creating over steer. So it's a balancing act depending on how you use your car.

Some good LCAs and an adj UCA will let you dial in your pinion angle and prevent flex while still giving you a fairly nice ride on the street.

 

[NastyStang113]

There are quite a few things you can do to get rid of the wheel hop. The first thing to do is LCAs. I'd recommend going with the BMR Billet LCAs and the Steeda Adj. UCA. The Steeda UCA comes with a stepped spacer so you can run it in the stock UCA mount without getting a clunking. The factory hole is 17mm while the bolt is 14mm so this washer will remove that play. Otherwise you need to run an upgraded UCA mount as well. Struts and springs will usually get rid of wheel hop as well.

 

[echoinsilence]

part of it is the flimsy upper and lower controls arms that come stock. They have a lot of flex to give a better, less harsh ride. And part of it is geometry. Lowered cars don't hop because the LCA geometry is changed. The rear mount being lower than the front mount of the LCAs. Good for drag racing but bad for road courses because of creating over steer. So it's a balancing act depending on how you use your car.

Some good LCAs and an adj UCA will let you dial in your pinion angle and prevent flex while still giving you a fairly nice ride on the street.

actually when you lower a car the front mount is lowered beneath the rear mount, creating wheel hop. Thats why you would need relocation brackets, to drop the rear mount further down.