How to get AC clotch off.!!
- Thread starter shallto
- Start date
The A/C clutch is about $100 new or you can buy a compressor from the junkyard with a working clutch for about $50. The puller is about $16 if you have to buy one, Autozone will rent you one for free.
The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system.
A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.
The clutch hub is usually what fails, the rubber shock damper shears off from the steel hub and plate. The hub comes off without much problem if you have the puller. You don’t have to do anything with the refrigerant (R12 or R134a), you can replace the clutch without draining and refilling the system.
A few simple electrical tests are advised before popping out the wallet to buy a clutch assembly. With the engine running, use a test light connected to the 2 wires on the A/C clutch harness to make sure you have voltage when you turn the A/C on. If the system is low on refrigerant, the clutch will not engage (safety feature, keeps you from burning up the compressor due to no oil). There is an aluminum canister on the firewall with a large hose leading to the A/C compressor. There is a pressure switch on it with a 2 wire connector: pull the connector off and jumper the wires. The compressor circuit will power up, and the test light will light if the electrical circuit is good. This test is also a good way to check the compressor & clutch if the system is low on refrigerant. You can jumper the wires and the compressor will turn if the clutch is good.
jrichker,
My AC compressor clutch has also failed, so thanks for the information. The problem is that I bought the car used not knowing how long the clutch has been broken. With that said, I have heard that not running the AC system for a long time can "goo" up the system. If I replace the clutch and get the compressor working, but the AC still doesn't work, is there a simple fix for this, or do I have to take it to a service shop?
Thanks,
My AC compressor clutch has also failed, so thanks for the information. The problem is that I bought the car used not knowing how long the clutch has been broken. With that said, I have heard that not running the AC system for a long time can "goo" up the system. If I replace the clutch and get the compressor working, but the AC still doesn't work, is there a simple fix for this, or do I have to take it to a service shop?
Thanks,
93 teal terror
Founding Member
He's right....once you get the center bolt off just use a set of snap ring pliars and pull the ring out. Should come right out then. When you put the new one back in, be sure you gap it correctly and tighten it in INCH-LBS not ft pounds.....the center bolt on mine has been "professionally" tightened by me to 120 ft-lbs....Daggar said:
fost9508 said:
My advise would be to purchase the entire clutch assembly from the parts store. It ehn becomes just a matter of swapping the old one for the new. No muss, No Fuss. Piece parting the clutch assembly may eventually put you into a situation where you'll have to replace some other part of it. For me... I ended up having to replace the pulley because the clutch had worn the material on the pulley to the point where the center of it had broken clean away from the outer (belt lands) portion.
fost9508,
I just replaced mine, bought a new one from Autozone. It didn't come with instructions and my Chiltons doesn't cover it. So I winged it and borrowed the A/C clutch removing tools from Autozone. Anyway the only tool that fit was the holding tool which I needed to get the old one loose. After you get the center nut loose it is pretty easy after that. First remove the clutch assy. Then the smaller snap ring comes off and you can pull off the pulley hub. The larger snap ring holds the coil assy on but you need to reach deep to get it off. Then after you get the new coil and pulley assy on you have to shim the clutch assy. I gapped mine to 0.010" to 0.012" and so far it works like a champ. I put blue locktite on the nut and torqued it by hand. The new design is different than the original so I had to use a piece of 1/2" hardwood to hold the assy from rotating (the new one had three 1" dia damper assys around the front that stick out about 1/4".
Good Luck, Don
I just replaced mine, bought a new one from Autozone. It didn't come with instructions and my Chiltons doesn't cover it. So I winged it and borrowed the A/C clutch removing tools from Autozone. Anyway the only tool that fit was the holding tool which I needed to get the old one loose. After you get the center nut loose it is pretty easy after that. First remove the clutch assy. Then the smaller snap ring comes off and you can pull off the pulley hub. The larger snap ring holds the coil assy on but you need to reach deep to get it off. Then after you get the new coil and pulley assy on you have to shim the clutch assy. I gapped mine to 0.010" to 0.012" and so far it works like a champ. I put blue locktite on the nut and torqued it by hand. The new design is different than the original so I had to use a piece of 1/2" hardwood to hold the assy from rotating (the new one had three 1" dia damper assys around the front that stick out about 1/4".
Good Luck, Don
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