I had my carpet up the other day to chase down an electrical gremlin, so I figured I would shoot pictures of this to post. I am surprised how many people mount a driveshaft loop, simply by sticking bolts through the floor. By doing this, it means you have to pull your seats and parts of your interior everytime you have to remove the loop in order to put a wrench on top of the bolt. Here's a quick way to keep from having to do that.
I drilled the floor as usual, and made plates out of aluminum that matched the bolt pattern of the safety loop. I then stuck four 1" bolts through, and locked them with a nut on the opposite side. Most loops only require 2, but I went ahead and did all 4 so that if one brakes or cross-threads, there is no need to replace it because of the redundancy of the other 3. I then tack welded the nuts to the floor. The tack welds are simply to keep the plates from popping up once then loop is off. Tacking it makes it easier to remove later on should you choose to do it. All the torque from the wrench is on the plate, not the welds, so they don't need to be that strong. This setup is easy to remove, easy to install, and allows you to change the bolts later on if they brake. If you don't have a welder, you can drop the plates in without tacking them down, you just have to be more careful not to push the plates back up through the floor when the loop is off.
Also remember when installing a loop that it needs to be within 6" of the transmission tailshaft to be legal. I am using a BMR driveshaft loop. It is a one piece unit that is easier to install. I like this one specifically, because the loop sits up inside the tunnel without any part being low enough to interfere with the exhaust.
Kurt
I drilled the floor as usual, and made plates out of aluminum that matched the bolt pattern of the safety loop. I then stuck four 1" bolts through, and locked them with a nut on the opposite side. Most loops only require 2, but I went ahead and did all 4 so that if one brakes or cross-threads, there is no need to replace it because of the redundancy of the other 3. I then tack welded the nuts to the floor. The tack welds are simply to keep the plates from popping up once then loop is off. Tacking it makes it easier to remove later on should you choose to do it. All the torque from the wrench is on the plate, not the welds, so they don't need to be that strong. This setup is easy to remove, easy to install, and allows you to change the bolts later on if they brake. If you don't have a welder, you can drop the plates in without tacking them down, you just have to be more careful not to push the plates back up through the floor when the loop is off.
Also remember when installing a loop that it needs to be within 6" of the transmission tailshaft to be legal. I am using a BMR driveshaft loop. It is a one piece unit that is easier to install. I like this one specifically, because the loop sits up inside the tunnel without any part being low enough to interfere with the exhaust.
Kurt