how to pass emissions???

[89OctaneStang]

Well.... Put stock cats on it at Al's and took it back today to be tested and it failed again!!!!

The HC went down to 593 from 1388 on the last run and the CO (%) went up to 2.5 from 1.38...

Bought a BBK adjustable fuel regulator and gonna put it on tomorrow and Al's gonna take a look at some other options... But I'm beginning to get frustrated with it not passing. How do I go about registering it at someone else's house (ie; friends home, family, etc...)???? Will it be ok to do that if I can get someone to let me do that even though I have registered it here at my home last year?

 

[AllFordPerf]

I had a customer car once that had cats and failed around 900ppm. In the process of performing a diag and tune up I found the distributor cap corroded and the center terminal loose. For fun I changed just the cap and rotor then took it back. It passed in the 100ppm range. I have passed everything from a stock motor to a supercharged stroker 351 but NEVER had one pass without cats.

 

[Repostyle]

Someone told me one time that shoving steel wool in your tail pipes will help you pass. I have not tried this but he said he did and it worked, it should also help pass the noise levels too. Also I've heard that you should empty your tank and add only 1 gallon of premium and a bottle of "HEAT".

Again, I have not tried these, but I'm told they work.

Of course this all rides on the fact that they don't look under your car for the cat's. If they look and you don't have them they will fail you not matter what your readings are.

 

[Repostyle]

One more thing. You don't have to go through DEQ. There's a back door at the DMV. As long as you own both cars you can swap plates between them. So if you have a little extra cash you can go find a $200 car or whatever with good tags. When you go to the DMV just do a plate transfer, it's $6.00 and perfectly legal. Or if you already own a car that passes go run it through, get the new tags and do the transfer then run it through again and get the tags and new plates for it.

 

[bchilt]

Hey 89OctaneStang,

Dude, sorry for all the problems. Three questions for you. What spark plugs are you running? A lot of guys run colder plugs for nitrous. If your running these, they will not help your emmissions. BTW, brown plugs are symptoms of running rich, white is lean.

Next, your thermostat. You mentioned in an earlier posting that you replaced it and the engine didn't get above 160 degrees. If that's true, then that's your problem. A properly functioning 192 T-stat would be closed until you reach 192 degrees and then open and cool. If that T-Stat is stuck open, then you will run very rich. I'm speaking from experience here.

Finally, when you set your timing, are you disconnecting your battery, waiting about 10 minutes, reconnecting, pulling the snout out, and then setting your timing?

Keep posting symptoms and results. We'll get it figured out!

B

 

[TheRedBlur]

Maybe I need to find where you live... I am no mechanic nor do I know much other than what everyone here on Stangnet is teaching me so I would love to do all the work that you suggested to do, but I need an instructor.... Would you be willing to give me some guidance? I have the money to fix the problem myself but not enough to pay a shop to do it for me... And I am very eager to learn all the ins and outs on my Fox... So if you would be interested in teaching me, I am interested in learning....

Thanks,
Brian

I'm open on the weekends if you need a hand. I think you should go to the dyno day on the 24th, maybe have john do some idle-tuning. you should do a tune up first though.

 

[89OctaneStang]

Well.... Al and I reset the timing to 10 degrees and got the computer to hold the idle at 1,000. Anything less than 10 degrees timing and it wanted to run at about 850-900 rpm. We installed my new BBK adjustable fuel regulator and set it at 30. My vacuum is at about 15psi steady. We got the catted H-pipe to fit a little better with a very small leak. It will not fit up perfectly with whatever after market headers that are on there... Tried loosening and adjusting it as much as possible and its as good as it gets right now... Checked the plugs and they are all about 45 and all new. Just purchased a new cap and rotter and air filter. Going to put that on here in a few minutes. They also sold me this product called "Good 2 Go" that guarantees you to pass emissions. Gonna throw that in the tank, run it for a while and then get a gallon of alcohol and put that in with 3/4 tank of 87 octane and cross my fingers...

Wish me luck all!!!!!!!!

Brian

 

[stock50LX]

Well.... Al and I reset the timing to 10 degrees and got the computer to hold the idle at 1,000. Anything less than 10 degrees timing and it wanted to run at about 850-900 rpm. We installed my new BBK adjustable fuel regulator and set it at 30. My vacuum is at about 15psi steady. We got the catted H-pipe to fit a little better with a very small leak. It will not fit up perfectly with whatever after market headers that are on there... Tried loosening and adjusting it as much as possible and its as good as it gets right now... Checked the plugs and they are all about 45 and all new. Just purchased a new cap and rotter and air filter. Going to put that on here in a few minutes. They also sold me this product called "Good 2 Go" that guarantees you to pass emissions. Gonna throw that in the tank, run it for a while and then get a gallon of alcohol and put that in with 3/4 tank of 87 octane and cross my fingers...

Wish me luck all!!!!!!!!

Brian

That vacuum is still pretty low. What is the most vacuum it will pull at a steady 1800 rpm or so...?

 

[89OctaneStang]

I'm not sure... That psi was at about 8-900 rpm. It's easy to check on my car cause we pulled the vacuum line off the NOS and plugged it thinking that would help some so I have a direct line to the system that is easily accessible.. We can check it again at 1800 rpm but why would you check it at 1800 instead of idle speed?

 

[TheRedBlur]

Get premium gas. Octane actually slows the burn down so's it'll burn more completely.

 

[white 89 GT]

His vacuum was 16 @1000 and timing is like 7 deg w/o spout 10 deg with spout.
We took the timing down to 2 deg w/o spout, but then could not get to idle above 800.
There is likely still a problem because its almost eye wattering rich when at cold startup.
I read somewhere that if there is any exaust leak at all in front of the o2 sensors they go to the rich side, but the stock catted h-pipe just will not seal (same h-pipe stock50lx and I used to pass) I think his headers are the problem there.
I have no more ideas.

 

[89OctaneStang]

Well, failed once again!!! With all the cheats and everything as fixed as it gets, it still failed.

Failed HC @ 565 (idle)
Pass CO(%) @ 1.17 (idle)
Pass HC @ 115 (cruize)
Pass CO(%) @ 0.7 (cruize)

Found a way around this crap... Being Active Duty Military, I can sign power of attornies over to my mother in Ohio and get it registered, tags, and title there in my name with out emissions. So thats the final plan.

Al,
I'm working at the hospital this weekend but sometime next weekend I'd like to get together and get these cats off, put my H-pipe back on and reset the timing, fuel and idle... Let me know when your free that weekend.

Brian

 

[TheRedBlur]

Advancing the ignition will burn more Fuel. Retarding it gives the ignition less time to burn the fuel resulting in more unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust.