how to pass emissions???

dohcfox · Oct 17, 2007

yello05 said:
WOW. In both Portland and Vancouver, I have taken cars through over and over- sometimes 10 minutes later after playing with fuel pressure and timing in their lot, and never have been told that I need to spend $XXX at a certified repair shop! Things up North must be bad!

No, if you want an exemption from emission testing you need to prove that you have spent x amount of dollars to repair the vehicle. If you do spend x amount of dollars on repairs and the vehicle still does not pass emission testing, then you are exempt. Fixing the problem in the lot is another story.

yello05 · Oct 17, 2007

dohcfox said:
No, if you want an exemption from emission testing you need to prove that you have spent x amount of dollars to repair the vehicle. If you do spend x amount of dollars on repairs and the vehicle still does not pass emission testing, then you are exempt. Fixing the problem in the lot is another story.

now that makes more sense

stock50LX · Oct 17, 2007

He is running a longer duration cam. I don't know the specs on the E cam but it is at least some of the idle problem.

You are FDT member, you can borrow my catted H pipe; get the thing through emissions and then fix your rich idle problems. With that much unburned fuel, you could reduce the ability of the oil to lubricated the cylnder walls.

Launchpad · Oct 18, 2007

That's not all to the exemption though... You can only get an exemption if you have all the factory cats, canisters and all factory emissions equipment. I tried that route.

I would suggest to the guy with the problem, finding a cat-pipe and installing it. Or, take it to a mufflet shop and have them do it for $25. I would gap your plugs to .40+, put your timing back to 10*, unplug your batt for 30 minutes and give your computer time to re-figure things out.

Make sure the cats are good and hot before you test. The E cam is an emissions cam, but it's a lot more aggresive than stock. It's not a crazy cam by any means, but it's not helping you here.

After you pass, take the cat pipe back off so you car doesn't sound lame.

Good luck.

Check the classifieds, craigslist has everything just keep checking, or put a want ad like I did... WANTED..... CATTED H-PIPE for MUSTANG

dohcfox · Oct 18, 2007

Or you might try unplugging two injectors for the emissions test run. It'd be like adding an air pump to your exhaust! Remember: The solution to pollution is dillution!

macjr · Oct 18, 2007

i have a catted h-pipe and the associated hardware you can borrow if you need to.

89OctaneStang · Oct 28, 2007

Well, yesterday I replaced several sensors; engine coolant temperature sensor, thermostat (192 degree Fail Safe), O2 sensor - was able to change the passenger side with no problems but COULD NOT get the drivers side one off, new plugs at factory gap, and set the timing to 14.... Car seems to be running good and the fumes are not nearly as strong as they used to be.

As far as the O2 sensor on the drivers side goes, I think the only way I'm going to be able to replace that is with a new H-Pipe.. Anyone else have this problem and find a fix for it other than a new pipe??

Brian

352Ford2 · Oct 28, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
Anyone else have this problem and find a fix for it other than a new pipe??

Brian

the hot wrench

use a torch to heat around the pipe and o2 bung, NOT the sensor!. Use thermal expansion as your friend...

o-yeah, when ever you put something theaded in the exaust system, but lots of anti sieze on it

89OctaneStang · Oct 29, 2007

I tried letting the car naturally heat up the pipe and then break it loose but that didn't work either.. I'll see if my boss has a torch to use cause I personally dont have one.

89OctaneStang · Oct 29, 2007

well.... changed all the said above and my HC output is even worse. It was 1337 and now it read 1388.... So I guess the only thing to do is borrow the cats from a fellow stanger and try and figure out what the heck my problem is... Why its running so rich. Could it be the injectors? They are stock injectors, I believe 19lbs, right? Might have to get a set of them and hope that works or could it be the fuel pressure regulator? Or both???? I'm just really stumped on why it was worse.... Checked the timing and its set at 14 degrees... Idles at 710-750... Someone PLEASE fix my retarded self.

white 89 GT · Oct 29, 2007

Needs to idle as close to 1000-1050 rpm as you can get it, put the timing back to 8 deg. and if you have a adjustable fuel psi regulater that needs to be toned down as well, and I have a stock catted h-pipe if you want to put it on and as you know the garage to do it in if need be.

352Ford2 · Oct 29, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
I tried letting the car naturally heat up the pipe and then break it loose but that didn't work either.. I'll see if my boss has a torch to use cause I personally dont have one.

Well there are a couple of ways to use the hot wrench, but what I am talking about here is you heat the female end and keep the male end relatively cool so the female end expands and makes it easier to undo the joint. Buying a $20 propane torch from the local hardware store will suffice.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion

When you are breaking it lose and you feel like it’s going to strip, back it off a little bit, so its kind of like when you are tapping a hole. You rotate at little CCW and then a little CW. When you rotate it back, you should be able to rotate it farther CCW than you did last time. If you have to work it out slowing like this the whole way. Taking an extra 10 min to get the sensor out with out stripping it is FAR betting than horsing it out.

well.... changed all the said above and my HC output is even worse. It was 1337 and now it read 1388.... So I guess the only thing to do is borrow the cats from a fellow stanger and try and figure out what the heck my problem is... Why its running so rich. Could it be the injectors? They are stock injectors, I believe 19lbs, right? Might have to get a set of them and hope that works or could it be the fuel pressure regulator? Or both???? I'm just really stumped on why it was worse.... Checked the timing and its set at 14 degrees... Idles at 710-750... Someone PLEASE fix my retarded self.

Could be your FP reg, what is your FP with the line off (should be 39PSI)? You can always way back that off to help (it will not fix your problem unless you are way high now, but…)

Get a noid light if you want to see if injectors are firing; this will not tell you if they are just worn out though.

What do your plugs look like? They are your window into your engine.

Could be your MAF, it could be a million things. You need to actualy trouble shoot it. If you keep the basics in mind when you are trouble shooting its pretty easy, your engine needs fuel, air, compression, spark, and it all needs to happen at the right time with the right amounts. If not you have problems, like what you are experiencing...

Your car was FULLY warmed up when you tested right?

89OctaneStang · Oct 29, 2007

"Could be your FP reg, what is your FP with the line off (should be 39PSI)? You can always way back that off to help (it will not fix your problem unless you are way high now, but…)"

I'm not sure what psi its at. I hope it is adjustable so I can maybe back it down a little. I know the guy that owned it before me said he had issues with the regulator and nitrous so he probably screwed with it.

"What do your plugs look like? They are your window into your engine."

Thats just it. I don't understand how its running rich if the plugs are brown'ish in color after 8 hard months of driving. If it wasn't burning right they would be white or black, right??? Just changed those as well this weekend and put it at factory gap.

"Your car was FULLY warmed up when you tested right?"

And with the new thermostat, I noticed that the car never went over 160 degrees all day, even on the highway... Did I get a bad thermostat or is that what a 192 degree Fail Safe thermostat does?

Brian

89OctaneStang · Oct 29, 2007

white 89 GT said:
Needs to idle as close to 1000-1050 rpm as you can get it, put the timing back to 8 deg. and if you have a adjustable fuel psi regulater that needs to be toned down as well, and I have a stock catted h-pipe if you want to put it on and as you know the garage to do it in if need be.

Yes, I do need to use the h-pipe. Does your ride have short tube headers so it matches up with mine? I would need to stop by like Wednesday to get it done. I'm quickly running out of time. If not wed, maybe Thursday. I'll set the timing back and adjust the throttle as well and see if that makes any difference.

Brian

stock50LX · Oct 30, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
Yes, I do need to use the h-pipe. Does your ride have short tube headers so it matches up with mine? I would need to stop by like Wednesday to get it done. I'm quickly running out of time. If not wed, maybe Thursday. I'll set the timing back and adjust the throttle as well and see if that makes any difference.

Brian

It's fine if you use Al's. I am just curious why you haven't come-by for my H pipe? I offered it to you weeks ago...?

white 89 GT · Oct 30, 2007

I don`t get home from work till just after 3:00 but I`ll be here.

89OctaneStang · Oct 30, 2007

stock50LX said:
It's fine if you use Al's. I am just curious why you haven't come-by for my H pipe? I offered it to you weeks ago...?

I didn't mean any disrespect. I was called in to work all this last weekend and that is when I wanted to come and get it. But with me working so many crazy hours, I didn't get to come get it. I barely had time to mess with the sensors in the morning before I went to work. I appologize, hope I didn't offend you. But when I was speaking earlier about "borrowing a fellow stanger's h-pipe", I was referring to you. And since you PM'd me about it I didnt want to put your business out in open forum. But I know where Al lives and have worked in his garage before, so if his h-pipe fits mine then I was gonna PM you and let you know I was gonna use his setup. If it doesn't, I am going to need to borrow yours if its still ok.

Brian

white 89 GT · Oct 30, 2007

Yes its the stock original for short tube headers.

stock50LX · Oct 30, 2007

89OctaneStang said:
I didn't mean any disrespect. I was called in to work all this last weekend and that is when I wanted to come and get it. But with me working so many crazy hours, I didn't get to come get it. I barely had time to mess with the sensors in the morning before I went to work. I appologize, hope I didn't offend you. But when I was speaking earlier about "borrowing a fellow stanger's h-pipe", I was referring to you. And since you PM'd me about it I didnt want to put your business out in open forum. But I know where Al lives and have worked in his garage before, so if his h-pipe fits mine then I was gonna PM you and let you know I was gonna use his setup. If it doesn't, I am going to need to borrow yours if its still ok.

Brian

No worries. I was just curious why you had not come-by. Use Al's if it's more convenient for you. Mine is the same design.

h8my408 · Nov 3, 2007

i could explaine my combo and go on for a year look you need the stock cats to pass ya i have mods car ran 13.6 at 104 good for something with 197,000 mile on it
i took my throttl body and mass air off and it fail worse so i put those back on and got a stock h-pipe

just barrow one from someone

edit: (wtf??? my damn friend has my password saved on his computer. this guy is 8.8mustang, i am faster than 13.6!!!)

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