How to set timing without a timing light

[Black1987Stang]

I just dropped a new 306 in and i try to adjust the timing and when i pull the spout connector out nothing changes?? the timing is at like 45-55 or around there with the spout connector in or out. That would be the computer advance im guessing? everything is hooked up right, i also did a mass air swap and map sensor vacuum line is unplugged and open. How can i set the timing without a timing gun? PLEASE HELP

 

[HISSIN50]

How do you know what the timing is if you dont have a timing light?

 

[ss93cobra]

Make sure that you've installed the dist. to cylinder #1, and rotate the dist. so that the ignition module is roughly 1 3/4"-2 1/4" away from the t-stat housing. That should get you close enough until you can get to a timing light.

 

[ss93cobra]

How do you know what the timing is if you dont have a timing light?

I wasn't gonna ask

 

[QDRHRSE]

The only way I know of involves a vacuum gauge. Do you have one of those? If so, set the timing to where ever you have the most vacuum at idle. That works pretty well for carb'd cars.

 

[ss93cobra]

except it won't for a fuel injected car

 

[ram360]

I'm hoping he means setting timing as in getting the dizzy back in the car (#1 cyl TDC on the compression stoke firing the #1 plug) and then use the timing light afterwards to dial it in.

 

[QDRHRSE]

except it won't for a fuel injected car

if you remove the spout connector....why not? I've never tried it on an EFI car but I'm curious as to why it wouldn't work?

 

[jrichker]

The only way I know of involves a vacuum gauge. Do you have one of those? If so, set the timing to where ever you have the most vacuum at idle. That works pretty well for carb'd cars.

Sounds like it should work to me. Just be sure to pull the SPOUT out when you set it and put it back in when you finish.

 

[88 Fox GT]

I've never tried this, but I wonder how close it would be if you were to set the harmonic balancer so the 10° mark was on the pointer. Then, set the rotor so it's pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap.

 

[HISSIN50]

I've never tried this, but I wonder how close it would be if you were to set the harmonic balancer so the 10° mark was on the pointer. Then, set the rotor so it's pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap.

That is how I would do it. But it can be off by a handful of degrees or more doing it like this. A light is the only way to fine tune it.

 

[8950HO]

That is how I would do it. But it can be off by a handful of degrees or more doing it like this. A light is the only way to fine tune it.

Without a timing light it`s difficult,make sure the distributor is installed correctly/accurately in the first place.

Sometimes in a pinch if the distributor has been moved and you don`t have a timing light handy,you can go by "ear".

What I mean is if any of you have used a timing light while moving the distributor around,if you retard the timing the engine starts to slow down and sound like crap,whereas if you start to advance the distributor/timing the engine runs more normally and sounds better,(a fine line),so you can generally tell by moving the distributor around and going by the sound of the engine to get a temporary setting until you can get a light and set it correctly.

If what I just said seems hard to understand,mark your timing spec on the damper and use a timing light,then advance/retard the timing and you`ll hear what I mean,at idle speed that is.

 

[HISSIN50]

Without a timing light it`s difficult,make sure the distributor is installed correctly/accurately in the first place.

Sometimes in a pinch if the distributor has been moved and you don`t have a timing light handy,you can go by "ear".

What I mean is if any of you have used a timing light while moving the distributor around,if you retard the timing the engine starts to slow down and sound like crap,whereas if you start to advance the distributor/timing the engine runs more normally and sounds better,(a fine line),so you can generally tell by moving the distributor around and going by the sound of the engine to get a temporary setting until you can get a light and set it correctly.

If what I just said seems hard to understand,mark your timing spec on the damper and use a timing light,then advance/retard the timing and you`ll hear what I mean,at idle speed that is.

Bud, I am not sure why you quoted me. It seems we are in agreement. Stabbing the dizzy only gets you in the ballpark (unless one is just lucky).

I would add that in my experience, the 'ear method' works much much better with carb'd vehicles (you have obviously had better luck than I). EFI can compensate, which means one can actually run the dizzy a good ways either way w/o huge issues. In the process, the puter compensates the idle, etc, making it hard to know where one is at. Carb'd stuff was easy to do this method with - the car would start to idle like poop.

 

[88 Fox GT]

That is how I would do it. But it can be off by a handful of degrees or more doing it like this. A light is the only way to fine tune it.

Timing light is the only proper way to do it, but I was just wondering if that would be a good start for someone who has no access for a timing light for a little while or something.

 

[HISSIN50]

Timing light is the only proper way to do it, but I was just wondering if that would be a good start for someone who has no access for a timing light for a little while or something.

Yeah bud - you are right. That is how I would do it, even with a light.
It just saves having to turn the dizzy a hair once up and running. And like you indicate, it might help with getting the timing closer if one does not have access to a light.

 

[8950HO]

Bud, I am not sure why you quoted me. It seems we are in agreement. Stabbing the dizzy only gets you in the ballpark (unless one is just lucky).

I would add that in my experience, the 'ear method' works much much better with carb'd vehicles (you have obviously had better luck than I). EFI can compensate, which means one can actually run the dizzy a good ways either way w/o huge issues. In the process, the puter compensates the idle, etc, making it hard to know where one is at. Carb'd stuff was easy to do this method with - the car would start to idle like poop.

I quoted you because what you said made sense,that`s all. .
,on my 89,when I remove the spout connector to set the timing at idle,the engine responds to advance/retard distributor positions just like on carb cars I`ve played around with in the past.

(on a new engine install/rebuild, "stabbing the dizzy" is an extremely important job to get right the first time).

 

[fiveofanatic]

The base timing is at 45-55?

"Stabbing the dizzy"? Are we talking about a car or some bimbo at happy hour?

Damn, I'm getting really old.

 

[8950HO]

The base timing is at 45-55?

"Stabbing the dizzy"? Are we talking about a car or some bimbo at happy hour?

Damn, I'm getting really old.

65,000 + posts???
Is this for real???

 

[Black1987Stang]

Without a timing light it`s difficult,make sure the distributor is installed correctly/accurately in the first place.

Sometimes in a pinch if the distributor has been moved and you don`t have a timing light handy,you can go by "ear".

What I mean is if any of you have used a timing light while moving the distributor around,if you retard the timing the engine starts to slow down and sound like crap,whereas if you start to advance the distributor/timing the engine runs more normally and sounds better,(a fine line),so you can generally tell by moving the distributor around and going by the sound of the engine to get a temporary setting until you can get a light and set it correctly.

If what I just said seems hard to understand,mark your timing spec on the damper and use a timing light,then advance/retard the timing and you`ll hear what I mean,at idle speed that is.

Ok I do have a timing light but obviously something isnt plugged in right or something cuz when u unplug the spout connector it IS SUPPOSED TO return to the base timing, but mine isnt. it just stays the same as when the spout connector was plugged in!! The distributor is in right, it runs awesome but it does have a low rpm bucking (say around idle to 2500 rpm) If im in between thiese rpm it will start jerking back and forth??? Im thinking its to retarded. I dont no what could cause the spout to not disadvance the timing but i no it did work properly with my old motor so it must be something when i did my motor swap, i no for a fact its not my new mass air computer or my timing light because i timed Joes (black/silver stang) with it with no problem and its not my computer b/c its the same with my speed density computer with my new motor. Question for 8950ho!....i no exactly what u mean by where it sounds like crap and where it starts to run good....where would the ideal position (sound) be for a basic 10 degree timing. For example Would it be right when it starts to smooth out or maybe when it just starts to roughen out. THANKS

 

[HISSIN50]

If you are not getting advance (could be from a SPOUT wire being cut, etc), then setting timing around 25* [for starters] might smooth it out. This would be the same as running locked-out timing. I would definately find the issue, but this might help termporarily. If you run at 10* locked out, it will likely buck pretty good on you and run like a dog.

Good luck