How to solve headlight switch overheating issue

[Canary94GT]

My headlights started flickering, so I did some research and found that it's probably caused by the headlight switch/connector overheating due to the incorrect gauge of wire it came with from factory. Indeed it was - my connector is melted. Most likely this is because I run my fog lights whenever I run my head lights

But I am wondering how I can fix and prevent this issue from reoccurring in the future (while still being able to use my fog lights).

I will buy a new headlight switch and headlight switch connector. I read that the new connectors come with a higher gauge wire.

1) Will this higher gauge at the connector prevent it from overheating or will the lower gauge wire before the connector (in the harness) overheat and cause problems still?

2) If the above answer is that there will still be problems, would rewiring my fog lights under the console to run them separately fix the issue? Since I am not electrically-inclined, I do not want to do the huge relay-rewiring method.

 

[Last5.0]

I've never had this problem and always ran fogs with the tinted headlights. The fogs are usually on a relay so the current for them isn't going through the headlight switch.

How are your fogs wired up? Just splice power at the switch from the convertible top harness. Easy one wire mod with everyhthing you need in one spot.

 

[Canary94GT]

It is currently the stock wiring setup. I just found when searching google that supposedly this is a common issue with the stock wiring harness gauge.

But you are running the vert harness mod and don't have any issues? If so I will probably just do that and with a new headlight switch/connector hopefully it will go away :o

 

[Last5.0]

Yup, been running the vert harness fog light mod since the mid-late '90s and no problems. My car hasn't been a daily driver since about '02 though.

 

[revhead347]

I've seen that on every SN95 I've ever worked on. Even if the headlight switch still works, it's likely melted the harness. I've had to swap out the pigtail on a few cars, and the replacement one does in fact come with some heavier gauge wiring. It takes a long time for it to go bad, so I would just go ahead and solder in a new pigtail and replace the headlight switch. I don't have a picture of a bad pigtail, but it essentially gets all melted in the middle. Here is the replacement. I called Autozone and they claimed not to have it. I called Advance and they said they didn't have it, but I found it on their website and ordered it with the shipping charge. When I went to the store and looked it up myself I found out they did have it available and I could have ordered it from the counter without having to pay the shipping charge. So here's the link so you'll have the part number.

Buy BWD Pigtail/Socket PT767 at Advance Auto Parts

Kurt

 

[Canary94GT]

Thanks guys! Don't have an Advance near me but I found that Napa nearby has one in stock for $12.50

Otherwise I could order one from LRS but I'd have to wait 4-5 days which I don't want to do.

I should replace the switch too right? The whole system functioned fine except for the flickering of the lights

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, I'd definately replace the switch as well. There is something in the switch that deteriorates over time and causes it to overheat which causes the pigtail to melt. Replacing both should resolve this problem.

Kurt

 

[toyman]

The real fix is to install a relay that handles the load to the lights and not the existing headlight switch. See this link.

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

 

[HISSIN50]

Relays for lows and highs is an easy way to go (both on foxes and SN's).

FWIW, the SN fogs are already on their own relay so they're not much of a burden (sans about 250 mA to trigger said relay).

 

[Canary94GT]

Soldered in the new headlight switch connector and installed the new headlight switch. Decided to rewire the fog lights using the convertible top connector method.

After finishing that I found out my passenger side fog light was out, which I don't think I've checked for a long time because it was COMPLETELY filled with water and the bulb came out in three rusty, corroded pieces.

Washed out the inside of the lens and put some RTV silicone on around the lens and on a crack on the top of the housing.

Will continue using this one and might get some new lenses.

Do you think the bulb being submerged in water could have caused the switch to heat up, or not possible with the relay?

 

[toyman]

Do you think the bulb being submerged in water could have caused the switch to heat up, or not possible with the relay?

Not possible with a relay. The relay isolates the switch from the electrical load to power the bulbs.

 

[Canary94GT]

Alright thanks for the clarification