How to start car with bad TFI module

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
2,242
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Roy, Utah
I was wondering if you all knew this trick
Happy motoring
TFI !.jpg
TFI 2.jpg
 
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I could not add more text after inserting the pictures. I had to wait for someone like you to ask or it would be like pimping your own stock. I do not even know if that was the correct place to put that little secret. I got this trick from a fellow master tech and the smartypants came up with it himself. It is simply a remote TFI module to get home on when yours fails. I had to give my (test module) away to my friend with a 85 Town Car. So I made another. Credit goes to Richard at Henry Day Ford in West Valley City Utah. I will make a diagram for you all to use and upload it tomorrow. At the dealer in the 90's had cars and trucks towed in daily with a no spark condition. We would use a test module to drive them in the shop. Then the diagnosis was done at the same time.
 
Back in the day at the dealer it was dog eat dog. The other master techs would not teach the young guys dank. Where the hell did that get them? Hell, none of them even work for Ford anymore. I trained 8 underlings and made good money doing so. I was an underling (new hire) of Richards at one time. I hope he is not still stuck in a rut at some other Ford dealer.
TFI 1.jpg
 
Now you're short on words? :jester:
You usually over explain things and all we get is a couple teaser pics?
Please explain further, at least to me, I've never seen this.
I am glad I could do something for you General. I explained and added a chicken scratched schematic. When you are at the wrecking yard looking for a spare module make sure there are no bubbles in the thick film. If you pull the cover off and examine the film, on the upper left side is an IC. Small square silver, that is where the ground connects inside and when they bubble the solder melts? and the module fails
 
We used to cut up distributor bodies to make these and heat sink the hell out of them. We did not know at the time how long they would last in case they got too hot. I have since determined that they last just as long as one bolted to your distributor.
 
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We used to cut up distributor bodies to make these and heat sink the hell out of them. We did not know at the time how long they would last in case they got too hot. I have since determined that they last just as long as one bolted to your distributor.
The heat sink part was one part I was wondering about. What models is the pigtail swiped from?
 
Any chunk of metal you can drill and tap for a TFI screw will work but the heat sink I used is a zero degree caster wedge
F250 leaf spring caster wedge E0TZ-5A313-A
You can get the pigtail off anything With TFI except early Escort including the remote mount truck and van on the inner fender
You will be taking the connector apart and just using three wires (you could just snip the ones not used)
A Ford caster wedge is expensive (30 bucks or so). I used one because I have a several in my toolbox. I used to align Ford vehicles for a living
I have made quite a few of these to give away over the years and used to spend a bunch of time grinding and heat sinking the metal
Now not so much. I do not even drill and tap anymore. I just drill the mount holes and use two small sheet metal screws
Don't forget some silicone dielectric grease on the back side of the module
I used to be able to lay my hands on 10 distributors a week due to all the crate motors we replaced down at the dealer. 3.8's mostly Taurus & Air Rooster
I still have a few complete distributors kicking around and use them to test stators
So for a no spark on a TFI
!) swap E core coil and retest
2) Swap Above self made Tfi Module tester
3) Plug in a working test distributor
I can do the above 3 tests in less than 5 minutes and that's how I paid off my house
Glad I could help 7991LXnSHO You know some of those early SHO's have a fuse labeled washer that controls the ignition coil (not in the book)
Absolute nightmare for a no start diagnosis