How to tell if I did the MIL Elim right.

soctty7676 · Mar 1, 2006

I bought a couple soder-in MIL Eliminators and sodered them in last night. Now, my sodering skill have much to be desired, so I am kindof worried about the wires staying together.

My question is, if the sodering didn't stay together and the connection came loose, would my check engine light come on immediately? Right now, it is off (knock on wood), but when I disconnected my battery, it always took about 2 days before the check engine light would come on.

O.T. My tail-pipe came loose out of my FlowMaster muffler last night at WFO throttle at around 5500rpm. It scared the livin crap out of me, but sounded awesome. I am thinking I should have dumped the exhaust right out of the mufflers!

timeless2 · Mar 1, 2006

Codes being thrown can vary by vehicle. Some are more/less sensitive than others, so it's tough to give you a completely accurate time for when a code might be thrown, unfortunately.

I've seen some that come on within 10 minutes and others that light up the CEL after 3 days.

USMstang · Mar 1, 2006

did you heatshrink the soldered connections? If not, they will eventually corrode.

soctty7676 · Mar 1, 2006

Well, after driving around today, it came back on. Either the connections came loose, or the Eliminator doesn't work. I am so frustrated now, between the MAC O/R pipe being a total piece of crap and this stupid check engine light. I think I may just put the stock mid-pipe back on. Wish I would have decided this before I cut into my O2 sensors!

timeless2 · Mar 1, 2006

Pick up a set of plug-n-play MIL eliminators. That is what I did.

Most people have good luck with the splicers, but I wanted to have the capability to revert at any time without further work.

HoustonGT · Mar 1, 2006

After you unplug the battery, the light comes back on in 50 miles. I got the plug-in ones from UPR and they work great. NO light at all and the gas smell seems to be less present. I know people say that having the light on means nothing and im a believer of that, but im gonna check my gas mileage after the MIL Eliminator install and will let you guys know if it makes any difference

soctty7676 · Mar 1, 2006

Well, I took them out. All connections are ok. I may have to do like HoustonGT and buy the plug ones.

They guy who sold me the eliminators told me to unhook my negative cable and touch to the positive terminal for 30 seconds....Have you guys ever heard of that?

USMstang · Mar 1, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Well, after driving around today, it came back on. Either the connections came loose, or the Eliminator doesn't work. I am so frustrated now, between the MAC O/R pipe being a total piece of crap and this stupid check engine light. I think I may just put the stock mid-pipe back on. Wish I would have decided this before I cut into my O2 sensors!

Dude, take a deep breath, relax and get back under there and do it right. It's not a tough job but one you might want a helper for the midpipe. As for the solder job,(get some heatshrink from Radio Shack if you have not already done so) check all your connections. If you didn't use the heatshrink, you'll need to redo the connections to include the heatshrink. If you have the crappy solder gun, go spend $10 and get the one that heats up when you pull the trigger (it usually has a light on it that shines on your work). This is available also at the Shack. In order to properly solder, the wires need to be heated before you apply the solder. You can do this! It is a drag and time consuming but not the worst mod you'll ever do.

USMstang · Mar 1, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Well, I took them out. All connections are ok. I may have to do like HoustonGT and buy the plug ones.

They guy who sold me the eliminators told me to unhook my negative cable and touch to the positive terminal for 30 seconds....Have you guys ever heard of that?

Where did you get the MIL elims?

Dope 97GT · Mar 1, 2006

Yeah when you touch the negative to the positive terminal for like 10-30 seconds it resets the codes and clears them. And my CEL is still on even after the MILs and im in NY so i need that off and its starting to piss me off.

soctty7676 · Mar 1, 2006

Yes, I have finally calmed down (had a couple beers) and decided to get it working. I got the MIL Eliminators from a place off of ebay. I think they are legit, I just think I have another problem. I have a buddy who has an ODB-II scanner, so we are going to get the exact codes/problems tomorrow and work from there. I have a slight exhaust leak on the drivers side, but I can only tell from spraying water on it. I can't hear it or feel it, so I don't know how serious that is.

Thanks for all the advice! I will get this figured out, then on to a headswap. I noticed JEGS has the heads, intake and swap kit for the 96-98 4.6.

USMstang · Mar 1, 2006

The beer always helps...it just screws up the ability to do the test drive!
Was the maker of the MIL elims in Michigan for like $14 mailed in a plain wrapper?

USMstang · Mar 1, 2006

USMstang said:
The beer always helps...it just screws up the ability to do the test drive!
Was the maker of the MIL elims in Michigan for like $14 mailed in a plain wrapper?

Nevermind, I just saw your previous thread in reference to the midpipe install from a couple of weeks back. Your new MIL elims should be just fine; I got mine several months ahead of my Predator and they are still working fine. Good luck with those other codes...

Serper3 · Mar 2, 2006

guys... i dont wanna start a new thread, but u think thats bad... i swapped out my xpipe, and when i did my light whent on... i got mil elimnators...(the plug in ones), the light still came on. got codes pulled, it said it was an o2 sensor, i changed both o2's the code is still on. my car is running kinda wierd. it kinda has a rough idle. i have no clue what to do, and i really am tired of looking down and seeing the ses light. its really bright especially at night. the rough idle also gets pretty freakin rough esp. when its cold. what do i do? how do i fix this?

USMstang · Mar 2, 2006

I think I might send those elims back and ask for some new ones.

timeless2 · Mar 2, 2006

Serper3 said:
guys... i dont wanna start a new thread, but u think thats bad... i swapped out my xpipe, and when i did my light whent on... i got mil elimnators...(the plug in ones), the light still came on. got codes pulled, it said it was an o2 sensor, i changed both o2's the code is still on. my car is running kinda wierd. it kinda has a rough idle. i have no clue what to do, and i really am tired of looking down and seeing the ses light. its really bright especially at night. the rough idle also gets pretty freakin rough esp. when its cold. what do i do? how do i fix this?

If you replaced both sets of o2's and still get codes thrown that relate to the o2's, then get a new set of MIL eliminators.

soctty7676 · Mar 2, 2006

Well, I pulled the code......It is the usual P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2).

I think Bank 2 is the drivers side, which is the side with the small leak where the header and downtube connect. Would this cause this problem? The leak is so small, I can't hear or feel it. I only know it's there because I put water on it and saw it spit out every so often.

I am wondering what to do now. I would hate to start spending money on different eliminators just to have the same issue. But, I guess that's all I can do is to start trying different parts.

If I switch my O2 sensors around, should I get the same error, except for Bank 1 instead? Or will this screw everything up?

Thanks!
Scott

USMstang · Mar 2, 2006

Scott,
I think I would call the guy in Michigan that made the elims and ask him if there is a simple test that you can do (maybe ohm them out or something with a multimeter) that would tell you if one of them got messed up in shipping. You're gonna have to get back under there anyway.
JS

Mike97gt · Mar 2, 2006

soctty7676 said:
Well, I pulled the code......It is the usual P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2).

I think Bank 2 is the drivers side, which is the side with the small leak where the header and downtube connect. Would this cause this problem? The leak is so small, I can't hear or feel it. I only know it's there because I put water on it and saw it spit out every so often.

I am wondering what to do now. I would hate to start spending money on different eliminators just to have the same issue. But, I guess that's all I can do is to start trying different parts.

If I switch my O2 sensors around, should I get the same error, except for Bank 1 instead? Or will this screw everything up?

Thanks!
Scott

it's your elims and yes bank 2 is the drivers side.

soctty7676 · Mar 2, 2006

Yes, I will probably email the guy and ask how to test the eliminators.

I will try and do that this weekend, I will also see if I can tighten up the header to downtube anymore. I have it pretty tight already though, so I am afraid anymore might snap the studs.

How to tell if I did the MIL Elim right.

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