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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Howling noise at highway speeds??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wikkdgt
  • Start date Start date Jan 1, 2004
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K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
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Aug 22, 2006
#21
  • Aug 22, 2006
  • #21
Its the front hub bearing assembly on one side or the other.

To verify raise wheel and see if there is any "in and out" play at all. There should be none. Give the wheel a spin, does it grind? When you try to spin the wheel it can be very hard to spin, that's normal. You are not guaging spin resistance you are listening for grinding sound.

I had to replace mine on both sides, here is what the part looks like:
View attachment 446296

View attachment 446298
 

BlackenedSVT

Active Member
Jan 18, 2004
1,841
7
38
New Jersey
Aug 22, 2006
#22
  • Aug 22, 2006
  • #22
I dont know your problem. But i know a solution. Louder Exhaust Fixes all noise problems with mustangs
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Aug 22, 2006
#23
  • Aug 22, 2006
  • #23
does the howl increase when you tip into the throttle? and then quiet down some when you let of the gas? if so thats a pinion bearing..

Does the noise increase or change when you steer side to side quickly? thats the front hubs..

Front hubs can make two different noises.. one is a roational thumping.. like Coramprat described.. but sometimes they HOWL ( many customers think it's coming from the engine when it does this) when they do this somtimes you can feel it in the floorboard with your foot.
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
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Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Aug 23, 2006
#24
  • Aug 23, 2006
  • #24
I went to the local ford dealer and got the tech to come for a drive, and he said the front-left wheel bearing was the problem.

I was wondering, can you get the bearing separate from the hub, or do you have to buy the whole thing?

They said you had to get the whole thing, and it was $124 CDN. Add in labor and taxes and it works out to be approx. $235 CDN.

Does that sound about right?
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
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134
Aug 23, 2006
#25
  • Aug 23, 2006
  • #25
padge said:
I went to the local ford dealer and got the tech to come for a drive, and he said the front-left wheel bearing was the problem.

I was wondering, can you get the bearing separate from the hub, or do you have to buy the whole thing?

They said you had to get the whole thing, and it was $124 CDN. Add in labor and taxes and it works out to be approx. $235 CDN.

Does that sound about right?
Click to expand...
Dude, it is your lucky day! As I already said in the thread I had to do both sides so I have some good info for you.

You should consider doing this job yourself.

I made a thread that had the word "hub bearing assembly" in it, search for it in 4.6 tech if you want.

The costs were as follows:
hub bearing assembly $74 (with ABS ring)
36mm retainer nut $12 (cannot re-use old one)
dust cap $6

I found these prices at the Ford parts counter of the Ford stealership in my town. The parts were in stock, the parts guys were competent and quickly filled my order.

There is no way to seperate the bearing, it is an assembly. You will have to specify if you have ABS as the hub bearing assembly comes with or without hall effect stator ring.

One fun thing about the job is torquing the retainer nut to 248 foot pounds. Good luck with that, its difficult.

You should just do both sides and also its a good time to turn the rotors and change the pads because you are going to have that all apart anyhow. The rotors will have to come off.
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
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Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Aug 23, 2006
#26
  • Aug 23, 2006
  • #26
Hey right on! I'm going to cancel my appointment on Friday, go pick up the parts, and me and a buddy will do the install.

Gotta love saving $$ .

Thanks a bunch .
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
0
0
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Aug 24, 2006
#27
  • Aug 24, 2006
  • #27
Ok, I can only afford to replace one of my hub assembly's right now, and I need to know which side...

When I'm driving, and the wheel bearing gets quiet when I turn right; what side needs replacing?

I checked for in and out play, and there was a little bit on my front-right wheel. But the Ford Tech that rode in my car said it would be the front-left.... help!
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
0
0
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Aug 26, 2006
#28
  • Aug 26, 2006
  • #28
Does the retainer nut have to be replaced on 97-98 Mustangs?
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Aug 26, 2006
#29
  • Aug 26, 2006
  • #29
Yes, I think the retainer nut always has to be replaced. As for which side I would go with what the Ford tech said.
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
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0
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Aug 26, 2006
#30
  • Aug 26, 2006
  • #30
Cool thanks. The funny thing is, is that I booked an appointment to have them install it, but then changed my mind. They ordered the hub, but not the retainer nut. So right now I have the hub but have to wait until Monday to get the retainer nut. How were they going to attach the hub without a new retainer nut ??
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
0
0
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Sep 2, 2006
#31
  • Sep 2, 2006
  • #31
Kilgore Trout said:
Dude, it is your lucky day! As I already said in the thread I had to do both sides so I have some good info for you.

You should consider doing this job yourself.

I made a thread that had the word "hub bearing assembly" in it, search for it in 4.6 tech if you want.

The costs were as follows:
hub bearing assembly $74 (with ABS ring)
36mm retainer nut $12 (cannot re-use old one)
dust cap $6

I found these prices at the Ford parts counter of the Ford stealership in my town. The parts were in stock, the parts guys were competent and quickly filled my order.

There is no way to seperate the bearing, it is an assembly. You will have to specify if you have ABS as the hub bearing assembly comes with or without hall effect stator ring.

One fun thing about the job is torquing the retainer nut to 248 foot pounds. Good luck with that, its difficult.

You should just do both sides and also its a good time to turn the rotors and change the pads because you are going to have that all apart anyhow. The rotors will have to come off.
Click to expand...

Well, me and a buddy attempted to do the install, and it would have went great if we knew that we'd need all the f***ing oddball tools to take the damn brakes off. A torx bolt and a female torx bolt hidden by the small boot thing? Jesus man, warn a guy about this kind of **** before you go off telling people they can do them theirselves. Christ, we had to drive all over town to find a 36mm socket for the retainer nut that we didn't even end up using.

Thanks for the bad advise, now I'm moving today with a bad wheel bearing and I'll have to get a Ford tech to do it anyway.

 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
1,418
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0
Houston
Sep 2, 2006
#32
  • Sep 2, 2006
  • #32
padge said:
Well, me and a buddy attempted to do the install, and it would have went great if we knew that we'd need all the f***ing oddball tools to take the damn brakes off. A torx bolt and a female torx bolt hidden by the small boot thing? Jesus man, warn a guy about this kind of **** before you go off telling people they can do them theirselves. Christ, we had to drive all over town to find a 36mm socket for the retainer nut that we didn't even end up using.

Thanks for the bad advise, now I'm moving today with a bad wheel bearing and I'll have to get a Ford tech to do it anyway.

Click to expand...
He was trying to help you save money. Shut up and stop being a baby and when people try to help you out, don't be an ass.
BTW, im not being a jackass or anything cuz i realize you are feeling angry, but calm down and understand that someone's thread isn't going to get you through the job, ts on you. Relax and try again
 

padge

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
61
0
0
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Sep 5, 2006
#33
  • Sep 5, 2006
  • #33
Yeahh I want to appologize for that post I made. I came on here to rant when I shouldn't have. I ended up getting the job done at my GF's dad's shop. I just ended up wasting so much time trying to find the right tools for the job and then finding out there were more I didn't need. I should have been ranting to Ford, not someone trying to help me out. My bad.

Thanks a lot for anyone who helped out, my car is 1000x better now that I got that fixed. (I realized that what I thought was my exhaust dromne quite awhile ago, was actually my wheel bearing).
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Sep 5, 2006
#34
  • Sep 5, 2006
  • #34
Oh, no problem man I completely understand your frustration...

I seriously did not have a torx bolt on mine but I did have to buy a 36mm socket.

Also, right at the end I mentioned 250 foor pounds of torque, that should have tipped you off that you were going to have to "get serious" so to speak. But I still say it is an easy job (if you have the right tools of course)

Glad to hear you got it fixed
 

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
1,418
0
0
Houston
Sep 6, 2006
#35
  • Sep 6, 2006
  • #35
padge said:
Yeahh I want to appologize for that post I made. I came on here to rant when I shouldn't have. I ended up getting the job done at my GF's dad's shop. I just ended up wasting so much time trying to find the right tools for the job and then finding out there were more I didn't need. I should have been ranting to Ford, not someone trying to help me out. My bad.

Thanks a lot for anyone who helped out, my car is 1000x better now that I got that fixed. (I realized that what I thought was my exhaust dromne quite awhile ago, was actually my wheel bearing).
Click to expand...
Glad to see you fixed the problem.
 
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