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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Hows this price sound?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1973mach1
  • Start date Start date May 12, 2004
1

1973mach1

Member
May 19, 2003
457
0
16
PA
May 12, 2004
#1
  • May 12, 2004
  • #1
I got a quote on a 351c 4v with quench head: $2500 for-
block fully prepped
stock 4ma crank polished or just turned
H beam rods
forged,wiseco/brc pistone
total seal rings
clevite H bearings
svo roller timing chain
solid cam from isky or comp
solid lifters
rotating assembly balanced
new performance damper
fel pro rear main seal
cam degreed
kevko oil pan and pickup
melling oil pump AHV style
front cover
4V quench chambered heads milled for studs
one piece SS valves
isky valve springs
comp guide plates
arp studs
crane retainers and keepers
felpro head gaskets
comp push rods
roller rockers
Everything but the intake and carb, Intake would add 200 to the price and 300 for shipping. This isn't a rebuild im buying the block and heads off them also. DO you think I could get my block and heads built like this for much cheaper? I also have to consider if I buy the complete engine off them I could always sell my parts I was going to use for my own build and make some $$$ back. Considering I have headers, timing set, clean 4v CC heads, intake, carb.... unfortunaly some of these parts were for my 2v buildup so wouldn;t work on my 4v build up. What would U guys do. Right now im looking at a complete engine for 3k including shipping from oil pan to intake, should make about 450HP.

Thanks,
Jim
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
May 12, 2004
#2
  • May 12, 2004
  • #2
that's a lot better than the last price you got quoted before. i still think it could be built cheaper using your parts but not by much, maybe 500-1000 bucks sepending on how much of the work you could do yourself like assembling the entire engine
 
1

1973mach1

Member
May 19, 2003
457
0
16
PA
May 13, 2004
#3
  • May 13, 2004
  • #3
OK thanks, the shop i quoted before to rebuild mine for 2500-3k seems to be very overpriced. I went there to get a quarter inch adapter for my 2 brake line peices from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve there about 6in each they told me they also bend them so i figured i minds well let them bends them thinking it would only be a few dollars since its only 6in of brake line and only has to be circled around. Anyway I go to pick it up and its 45 dollars for parts and labor, thats 2-3 bucks each for the 2 peices of line and the rest was labor. I could have bent them myself in 10 minutes for no cost, I would have had i known i was going to pay 40 dollars in labor.

thanks,
Jim
 
S

Sudz

New Member
Aug 22, 2002
29
0
0
Redford, MI
May 13, 2004
#4
  • May 13, 2004
  • #4
Where the heck do you guys learn all this stuff? I've been followin' this forum for the last month or so and it just seems there's so much to absorb, I don't know how you keep it all in. Matching this type of piston, w/this type of head, w/this many valves, everything's bored, stroked, matched w/this type of cam, w/this much lift/duration...it's enough to make me wanna pull my hair out!

I'm sure it can't be as overwhelming as it seems, but how do you go about getting a grip on all this?

Seeing and hearing about all the variables makes kits seem soooo much easier. Are kits more expensive that picking out the parts yourself?
 
1

1973mach1

Member
May 19, 2003
457
0
16
PA
May 13, 2004
#5
  • May 13, 2004
  • #5
I dind;t know much about cars till I got my 73' mach 1 last year and started visiting this forum and working on it, its not too tough once you start reading post and working on your car. Im doing all the work on my car except the body work and until last year had no idea how to tell a Cleveland from a Windsor from a Mopar engine from a FMX,C4,C6. Whenever I get problems I just post it here and usually someone has the answer. Im glad I found this forum or i'd never have been able to build this car.

Jim
 
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