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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Hubs for G2C Conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter ultrastang
  • Start date Start date Sep 10, 2006

ultrastang

Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
1,092
2
37
Arkansas
Sep 10, 2006
#1
  • Sep 10, 2006
  • #1
It would seem that no one makes/sells just the hubs for a '70-up Mustang in either drum or disc brake versions without buying the entire drum or disc/hub assembly. --at least, I haven't found anywhere yet that you can get just the '70 hubs alone.

The hubs I bought for development of the G2C Cobra front disc brake conversion brackets for '75-'80 Granada spindles came from a brand new pair of Wagner '70 Mustang front disc brake rotors, I had purchased at O'Reilly's. Nice hubs, but the bad part after you remove the hubs is you end up with two brand new '70 Mustang rotors that are useless.

In searching, I see that you can get '65/'66 hubs by themselves all day long. Luckily, the larger '70-'73 Mustang/'75-80 Granada inner and outer wheel bearings & races will fit the earlier '65/'66 drum brake hubs.

I suppose it would make more sense for me to gear the adapter brackets to work with the '65/'66 hubs, since they can easily be obtained. However, this will force me to redesign the adapter brackets, because the earlier hubs will move the 13" Cobra rotors ¼" more inboard toward the spindle's upright and steering arm. With my current adapter bracket design, 1/4" difference between the hubs is too much for the caliper to align with the rotor, so it will require a bracket that is 1/4" narrower.

'65 Mustang drum brake hub pictured on left. '70 Mustang disc brake hub on right: http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/8107/6570hubs001uy0.jpg

'65 Mustang drum brake hub on '75 Granada spindle: http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/3326/6570hubs003qb6.jpg

'70 Mustang disc brake hub on '75 Granada spindle: http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5076/6570hubs004rq9.jpg

www.ultrastang.com
 
B

bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Sep 10, 2006
#2
  • Sep 10, 2006
  • #2
i was afraid you were going to run into that problem. are you going to redesign the bracket or are you at a standstill now?
 

ultrastang

Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
1,092
2
37
Arkansas
Sep 10, 2006
#3
  • Sep 10, 2006
  • #3
bnickel said:
i was afraid you were going to run into that problem. are you going to redesign the bracket or are you at a standstill now?
Click to expand...

Re-designing the bracket shouldn't be any big deal. All the change would require is taking 1/4" of the thickness off from its current design.

I have to work graveyard next week (yuck) starting on Monday. I hope to have some time during the day, before I go in to work, to talk with the guys at the machine shop to discuss this change, and to also get a price on what the brackets would cost if they were made out of steel.
 
H

hsr

Member
Apr 15, 2004
138
0
17
Riverview, MI USA
Sep 11, 2006
#4
  • Sep 11, 2006
  • #4
ultrastang said:
Re-designing the bracket shouldn't be any big deal. All the change would require is taking 1/4" of the thickness off from its current design.
Click to expand...

Steve,

Personally, I think this would be little more robust (less cantilever effect). But, what other problems (if any) does it create with limiting wheel/tire size width and offset?

Optimum location (scrub radius) is the wheel center, centered on the ball joint centerline.
 

69gmachine

Member
Dec 2, 2004
576
2
19
Southern Maryland
Sep 11, 2006
#5
  • Sep 11, 2006
  • #5
Just my .02, but if someone is installing 13" Cobra brakes, they will also be installing 17" wheels (or larger). And the cheapest most readily available 17" designs are from the SN-95 models. So why not consider using an aluminum Wilwood hub, since it already moves the wheel outboard about 3/8", is readily available and not crazy expensive?

Of course I have a bias as that's the hub I'm using, but it worked out great. I used a Maximum Motorsports 1/2" spacer to place the wheels far enough outboard so as not to interfere with the UCA, and it fit nicely in the wheel well. I bought the Wilwood heavy duty MII kit, but only used the hub and hub adapter on the front, with Coleman 12.125x1.25 rotors. Not too cost effective I know, but I'm sure you can buy them separately, although it's probably not much cheaper than buying the kit. I used the skinny rotor and caliper that came in the kit on the rear with a Wilwood hat to mount the rotor.

The caliper brackets I'm using now are homemade, not much to look at, but they survived my first open track outing, which is more than I can say for my engine If you make a nice one that works for me, I would gladly replace mine.
 
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