Hunt for N\A power... need some suggestions

the98stang · Nov 13, 2007

Winters98GT said:
Most of what you have been saying, isnt true.

Who said anything about 400rwhp? 400rwhp should get you way past low to mid 12's and deep in the 11's. You dont have to have a gutted car. weight reduction and a gutted car are two different things.

10 grand in suspension work I don't think so......

aslo, TGJ is correct on the svo intake/head. The ports are the same, you can use the svo intake on NPI heads, or SVO heads with a NPI intake.

If you dont know what your talking about, dont post misleading information.

I was talking about the guys running mid 10's N/A. You think that guy has less than 400whp? No way in hell. And yes 400whp can get you into 11s, but it takes a good driver. I also said those cars were most likely gutted, I didn't say "you have to gut your car to get into the 12's". And last time I checked, guttnig a car IS weight reduction. Also, $10k could EASILY be spent in suspension. I'm not saying you have to spend that amount for 12s, but those guys running 10-11s sure as hell have expensive setups. So don't flame me just because you can't understand my post

Winters98GT · Nov 13, 2007

TGJ said:
Well that is not exactly what I meant. You can use any 2V intake with any 2V head. Sure the ports may not line up exactly when using a PI intake with the NPI head intake ports, but it is not a big HP difference. This has been done and tested. The easiest way is to use a PI style intake on NPI/SVO heads is to use PI intake gaskets and a little RTV around the coolant ports to get a perfect seal. The only NPI intake worth using is the SVO intake.

Johnny Langton was the first to swap a PI intake on his NPI headed car. I too swapped a PI intake on a NPI headed car shortly after. This is a uprising swap now, putting PI cams and PI intake on a NPI headed car. They are a cheap mod that puts the NPI headed cars on almost equal footing as PI headed cars with the same compression ratio and bolt-on mods.

That is what I meant, I would not be afraid to put a Bullitt intake or Trickflow or RR on a SVO headed car. It does not have to be the SVO intake...

oh, I wasnt referring the PI intake. I just meant that with svo heads, you dont have to use the svo intake, you can use the stock NPI intake as well, but with NPI heads, the svo intake will bolt up directly.

the98stang, the reason I miss understood you is because there was absolutely no mention of your new point in any of your post, so it was hard for me to try and read your mind. I have been reffering to the original post

"So i'm doing a rebuild on my triple black 2000 GT convert.... i'm hunting for big power without forced induction, enough to beat buddy's C5 vette (doing mid 12's without his spray)"

justinschmidt1 · Nov 13, 2007

Winters98GT said:
oh, I wasnt referring the PI intake. I just meant that with svo heads, you dont have to use the svo intake, you can use the stock NPI intake as well, but with NPI heads, the svo intake will bolt up directly.

the98stang, the reason I miss understood you is because there was absolutely no mention of your new point in any of your post, so it was hard for me to try and read your mind. I have been reffering to the original post

"So i'm doing a rebuild on my triple black 2000 GT convert.... i'm hunting for big power without forced induction, enough to beat buddy's C5 vette (doing mid 12's without his spray)"

Just get a blower and build the engine. Then you will be able to make big power. Modulars respond great to blower, why not feed it?

blckstng96 · Nov 13, 2007

trust me when i tell you the money spent to go big power N/A is not worth it.i just did it and i deff spent big money and i deff dont have big power.to make the car and everyday car its just not going to happen N/A. You need massive wieght reduction,way to high compression and the car is still not a monster compared to the money your going to put in it.this is why im going with a kenne bell 2.6h now.

the98stang · Nov 13, 2007

blckstng96 said:
trust me when i tell you the money spent to go big power N/A is not worth it.

Exactly right.

Winters98GT · Nov 13, 2007

nobody is talking big power, were talking low mid 12's. With the right setup, you can get there. bolt on cars with the half the expense are going mid to high 12's.

You guys are missing the thread. Youre converting the disscussion from what it was, to an NA/blower, which is better thread. No chit a blower makes more power.

blckstng96, no crap, you just bought a built stroker block. Nobody is saying these cars are monsters, their not. Their slow. I know that, this thread wasnt comparing NA to FI. However, if you read back on the thread, you will enlighten yourself to what this thread was meaning.

This thread, like many others here at stangnet these days, gets completely changed from what it was intended to be. The guy wanted to run mid 12's to keep up with a corvette. The so called "know it alls" on here said, "you need 10 grand in suspension, you need stage 3 heads, cams, every bolt on known to man, blah, blah." My point is this. There are over a hundred cars in the 11-12's on motor. There are proboly 50+bolt on cars in the country in the 12's. Bill Putnam was in the 12's with a little over 2 grand, that included rear end, gears, bolt ons, and wheels and tires.

THE POINT WAS NOT WHICH IS BETTER, the guy wanted to run mid 12's, and if done right, he can for fairly cheap.... to those that say he cant, well its be done, time, time and time again. Period.

TGJ · Nov 13, 2007

blckstng96 said:
trust me when i tell you the money spent to go big power N/A is not worth it.i just did it and i deff spent big money and i deff dont have big power.to make the car and everyday car its just not going to happen N/A. You need massive wieght reduction,way to high compression and the car is still not a monster compared to the money your going to put in it.this is why im going with a kenne bell 2.6h now.

What is considered big power? My N/A TBird is making over 330 RWHP through an 4R70W auto and IRS( Approx 355 RWHP in a 5 spd Mustang ). I don't consider that Big-Power but not to bad for a plastic PI intake either. It wouldn't be to hard for me to get this car to 380 RWHP( Approx 410 RWHP in a 5 spd Mustang ) N/A and I could drive it everyday, it is being driven every day currently. I don't consider my car a monster but it has opened a tonne of eyes.

Part of the problem your car has N/A is that it is a Stroker. Too many people are on the Stroker band wagon thinking that Stroker's do well N/A. They don't and won't in 2V or 3V trim. You might see some gains N/A with the best 4V heads out there and even then I doubt it.

The only think I agree with you is cost.

fobra559 · Nov 13, 2007

You need 4.10's, 26x10 inch slicks and skinny front tires, and yank out the anti roll bar for about a 25lb weight reduction, learn how to shallow stage and get some adjustable rear shocks and put it on a stiff setting so it will keep your tires planted. A timing adjuster along with a mass air meter and free flowing filter would help too. Exhaust upgrades will also help you out a lot too.

Can you drive? If you can, the things listed above can propel your pony into the high to mid 12's with good weather. That is if you can drive.

You guys are going to the track right?:Track:

blckstng96 · Nov 14, 2007

i didnt miss the point of the thread,i understand he is trying to run 12s and beat a c5,but along with that comes mods to the car and being that these cars with such mods don't respond with very high hp numbers weight also plays a big part.maybe i missed that part but i assumed he also wanted to keep his car like it is along with all the normal features.he asked for opinions and i gave mine.i understand my car does not do well as an N/A car with the stoker but in any case these things are not cheap ,relative to hp numbers,to mod.i am not doubting your car TGJ or anyones car on here for that matter.if you can pull big numbers thats awesome.i just have my doubts about a 2v n/a making 380rwhp without going serious compression.I may be wrong but this is just my .2.in any case good luck with your challenge and keep us updated as to how it goes.

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

well people, i came close

here is what i did....

302 Stroker from Eagle (9.2:1 compression.... keeping future of FI in mind)
VT stage 2 cams
Patriot Stage 2 heads
BBK shortys
BBK o/r X
SLP loudmouth catback
Mac CAI
Accufab 75mm TB
TrickFlow Intake Manifold
MSD Blaster Packs
Underdrive pulleys
3.73's
24lb injectors

Dyno Tuned on a Mustang Dyno.... guys at the shop say Mustang dynos give lower readings then dynojets... something to do with adding load or something... i have no idea...

315 rwhp
316 rwtq

but now i need some help.... after a day of driving, service engine soon light appears.... codes reading P1000 (Systems Readyness Test Not complete) and P0300 (Random Misfire Detected)

What to do... is this serious does anyone know... should i just clear them and see if they reappear... is it safe to keep driving?

CobraRed_96_GT · May 22, 2008

What spark plugs are you using now?

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

ford double platinums.... should i use something else?

CobraRed_96_GT · May 22, 2008

pdstang2000 said:
ford double platinums.... should i use something else?

i meant what heat range, could be causing some ignition issues if you're using stock or even possibly one stage cooler than stock plugs with that set-up

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

CobraRed_96_GT said:
i meant what heat range, could be causing some ignition issues if you're using stock or even possibly one stage cooler than stock plugs with that set-up

im using the stock ones... is there a way of finding out if that is the problem.... still driveable u think, shoudl i just clear the codes? which plugs should i be using now?

hotstang_46 · May 22, 2008

Impressive results...... congrats

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

thanks... i was excited when i saw the numbers... now im stressed... six month rebuild and now trouble codes up the ying yang....

CobraRed_96_GT · May 22, 2008

pdstang2000 said:
im using the stock ones... is there a way of finding out if that is the problem.... still driveable u think, shoudl i just clear the codes? which plugs should i be using now?

Can't assure you that it's the problem, but i'd bet money that it is a problem.
You should be using a AGSF-22C or equivlent, and even though 9.2:1 isn't too high - maybe even a 12C variant due to your power levels

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

kkk... thanks alot.... and as for the OBD systems test? can i still drive it as is?

CobraRed_96_GT · May 22, 2008

pdstang2000 said:
kkk... thanks alot.... and as for the OBD systems test? can i still drive it as is?

Disconnect the battery and see if it happens again, then see if it happens when the car is hot or cold. The spark problem most likely will happen when it's hot. I don't think the car's in any immediate danger right now tho

pdstang2000 · May 22, 2008

CobraRed_96_GT said:
Disconnect the battery and see if it happens again, then see if it happens when the car is hot or cold. The spark problem most likely will happen when it's hot. I don't think the car's in any immediate danger right now tho

would clearing the codes with my diablo handheld do the same trick as disconnecting the battery? it was later on in the day after driving it for a while when the service light came on, it sounds like its running the same tho, at idle it stalls out once in a while, other then that im getting used to the wicked chops of the cams.... sounds unreal

Hunt for N\A power... need some suggestions

Active Member

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!

Member

Member

Active Member

Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!

New Member

At least it's more erect and not floppy anymore.

Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency