Hydralic Clutch Actuation system Rig Job Failing

jikelly

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Jul 9, 2003
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Lubbock Tx
I was all excited, I had a whole day to spend working on the car. Thank you DR. Martin Luther King!!

I started the car and let her warm up and then went to back out of the driveway and found the clutch wouldn't let me do anything. Turns out there was a leak at the slave cylinder. I got under there and went at fixing that. I actually took the slave cylinder apart during the process and found metal inside the thing. One side of the slave's cylinder is visibly worn more than the other. No big deal right?:shrug:

Wrong, it must be a big deal because after cleaning it and putting it back together I found that the thing wasn't working right. I think what's happening is that when it reaches the point where I need it to be to actuate the clutch it's loosing pressure as fluid leaks past the oring in there.

So that was failure 1.

Failure 2 concerns the clutch pedal, and my question to you guys. Does anyone make the bushing thing that goes inside the tube that the pedal arm turns on?

You can see my solution in this picture from back in 03 when I first rigged up the clutch pedal.
Pedal%20with%20leaver.webp


I'm figuring on going this afternoon to look for more of those bushings. Hopefully I'll find some that are a better outer and inner diameter fit for my pedal. Course the tube that the arm's in is not standard. You can see more of my setup here.
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/jikelly/Tremec page.htm
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/jikelly/pictures.htm

I did switch out the cutoff push rod and square tube that it simply made a friction connection in for a spherical rod end. And that led me to find the problem with the way my pedal is mounted in the pedal assembly. The arc that the pedal has to travel in with that rod end attached forces it to wobble in the shaft, and it binds as it gets close to the floor. I guess that didn't matter when the end of the pushrod was free to move around.

Anyway, Peace out brother people. Wish me luck.
 

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Are you sure the slave push rod is aimed squarely at the fork? I can see the type of wear you'd get if the slave cylinder were angled and cannot squarely push the fork.

Yep, that's exactly what happened.

The pushrod is angled as it goes into the slave cylinder which places more pressure on one side of it than the other. Even more so now because I switched to using the outer hole on the fork to get more travel. I'll have to look and see if I can correct the angles. I was very careful with the angles on the master cylinder's pushrod as its depressed, but not the slave. Now I'm paying 52 dollars to replace the slave and I only had it like 4 years.