Hydraulic clutch?
- Thread starter cjuroff
- Start date
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Or did they put them in the foxes
sunil6784
Member
88GThatchback
Founding Member
Car RamRod
Banned
slow5poh
Senior Citizen
JIffy94
New Member
Yes, the 05 was finally the first year of hyd. clutch. Still waiting to see if we can get it to work on foxes tho. It would be pretty sick if it can work.
Hydraulic clutches?
GOOD: Not having to worry about snapping/stretching cables, plastic quadrants, squeaky related pieces, usually far easier leg pedal effort.
BAD: Potential leaks, having to bleed air out of lines, clutch master/slave cylinder failures suck just as bad as broken cables, clutch hoses that swell/burst from weak rubber designs (unless braided stainless is used) and my girlfriend will no longer HATE trying to drive my car with a stiff-azz clutch pedal.
GOOD: Not having to worry about snapping/stretching cables, plastic quadrants, squeaky related pieces, usually far easier leg pedal effort.
BAD: Potential leaks, having to bleed air out of lines, clutch master/slave cylinder failures suck just as bad as broken cables, clutch hoses that swell/burst from weak rubber designs (unless braided stainless is used) and my girlfriend will no longer HATE trying to drive my car with a stiff-azz clutch pedal.
I'd take a good hydraulic setup over our crappy cable setup any day. There are retrofit kits for older Stangs but I've not seen one for the Fox body. My only concern with a retro kit would be that our throwout bearings are designed to be butt up against the pressure plate at all times. Get a little slack in the cable and theyhave a tendancy to start chattering. I'm not sure if a hydraulic retro-fit would be able to keep enough pressure on that TO bearing to keep it from making that aggravating noise.
Blk91stang
Member
Daggar said:
wouldn't the throwout bearing pre-maturely wear out spinning all the time? I always keep about an 3/4" of slack and my pedal never makes that noise. Also with all the slack out of the cable, I wouldnt be able to tell if my clutch is not disengaging, meaning I just fried a $400 clutch...
Daggs method is the correct one. However, I do it like you do Blk91 - not because I am worried about too much preload (you can still feel when the diaphram fingers start to load up), but because I dont want the TOB meshed with the PP fingers constantly. When the TOB starts making noise, I will tighten it up to quiet it up, till I fix it.
I think most hydraulic clutch set-ups feel like poop. They bite just fine but dont give good feedback as engagement take-up occurs. (it is like shifting a cable operated clutch with a leg that is half-asleep).
A really smooth cable is just as good as a hyraulic set up, IMHO.
I think most hydraulic clutch set-ups feel like poop. They bite just fine but dont give good feedback as engagement take-up occurs. (it is like shifting a cable operated clutch with a leg that is half-asleep).
A really smooth cable is just as good as a hyraulic set up, IMHO.
Car RamRod
Banned
When my cable is too loose, I get a tick-tick-tick sound out of the tranny and have to turn the FW adjuster "IN" to get it stop. It's annoying as hell. The "Sweet Spot" (between where it makes noise (cable too loose) and where the clutch starts slipping (cable too tight)) seems to be pretty narrow on my car. Anyone have a suggestion as to why that spot would be so narrow?
Andy, if the TOB is getting old in the toof (sic), and the PP has been in there for a bit, that could be it right there. If the TOB is requiring decent preload to stay quiet, which is getting you close enough to disengaging to slip. And weak or mildly contaminated clutch friction surfaces allow slippage with all your power.......
That is my best guess.
Good luck bud.
That is my best guess.
Good luck bud.
The only problem with that theory is that it's done it since the last clutch swap. The whole assembly hasn't even been in a year and like I said.... it's done it from the get go. It almost seems like the fork or something might be coming in contact with something that is rotating but I can't imagine what. When it gets that way, a slight press of the clutch pedal quiets the whole thing down. So I end up adjusting the noise out of it with the FW adjuster. Just have to ensure that I don't over-adjust so that I get full clutch engagement. Gotta be something screwy with just my car because I've not seen others making the same complaint.
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