I am Going to Rebuild my motor have ?'s

OK my motor took a ***** on me :bs: and it needs a rebuild. I called many local repeutable(sp) machine shops. Well to have the block fully machined ($145) and the heads done it will cost $300 which doesnt sound that bad. That is with all new freeze plugs cam bearings ect, is that a good deal? Next the heads to be fully cleaned with new valve seats, guides,regrind the valves ($150) Now comes the cam selection and pistons. I want forged but do not have the money, will hypertechs be ok? I will not run boost or the bottle on them. Second i am leaning towards the TFS 1 cam, how streetable is it or do you have any other cam ideas that are within the price range? Will my stock rods and crank be ok since it is only burning oil? Thanks again
 
Take a look at a compcams XE266HR or XE270HR cams.
If it's for a street car thous cams specs looks pretty nice.
You stock crank might need turned but most likely will only need polished.Have your rods balanced and resized and fitted with ARP bolts.Hyperutectic pistons are fine,look for hyper with 10:5 comp with the heads you have.
 
TFS cam will not pass smog... at least here in CA. It is a bit tricky to tune but it can be done with the stock electronics and stuff. I wish i didn't have to change it out because it sounded really wicked.
KEvin
 
Wait to change the cam until you get the proper heads/intake/exhaust mods to go with it. Otherwise the chances are real high that you'll end up with a combo that gets worse gas mileage, worse emissions, has less power below 3000 rpm, and very little power gain above that.
 
Michael Yount said:
Wait to change the cam until you get the proper heads/intake/exhaust mods to go with it. Otherwise the chances are real high that you'll end up with a combo that gets worse gas mileage, worse emissions, has less power below 3000 rpm, and very little power gain above that.

Good advise.

I think $300 is a little steep to just do a plain rebuild on those heads. You could get a set of Thumper's for not too much more and they will make a really big difference and hold you until you can afford the TFS's.
 
90mustangGT said:
Good advise.

I think $300 is a little steep to just do a plain rebuild on those heads. You could get a set of Thumper's for not too much more and they will make a really big difference and hold you until you can afford the TFS's.

if i am not mistaken they are $600. for someone that is planning to stay with that type of setup i think they sound great. but if you plan to upgrade to TFS in the future you might as well wait. there is only about $400 difference between the sets of heads.
 
ok here is the deal, The head price was $150 for a total rebuild, the other $150 was for the block machining i must of typed it wrong. I dont have to worry about emissions either, so now to the cam, I want to put a cam in there before the motor goes back in, much easier. I will upgrade to trickflow heads as soon as I can get money saved up. The original plan was to upgrade to EFI before a rebuild but this motor is going to need a rebuild with in a few weeks, so what cam do you guys recommend? I would like to have the trickflow S1(price, and it will match my setup I am wanting.) So is this not a good decision? I am gonna have to get a new cam and i dont know how much a stock one is, so i would rather get a new one. I cant afford a comp or lunati cam, so that is out of thee question. Also i have headers and a intake, check sig, are these not enough? The only thing i really lack is heads, keep the responses coming.
 
You know what you can afford, and you know what you want, and it has to be replaced anyway and you're gonna upgrade heads later -- sounds like you've got it figured out. How can we help?

You ask if the mods you have are enough. Think of the flow of the air into the engine. In your case it passes through the carb, the intake and then the HEAD on its way to the cylinder. Doesn't matter how free flowing you are upstream and downstream of the cylinder, if the head is a bottleneck for flow getting into the engine. If you match your cam to the future heads, it will be less than optimal with the stock heads - sounds like you're willing to live with that for a while. If you know the heads are coming in the near future, sure, putting in the cam now will be easier. Just keep in mind that you'll need to check p to v clearance, and check it again when you replace the heads (bigger valves).
 
Michael didn't say that - Michael said if you put those kinds of cams in without the other components that are supposed to go with them, that you can end up with bad drivability. No cam per se is 'bad' -- but there are bad combinations of parts, including cams. Here's what the E303 designer (Crane Cams) recommends with that cam:

GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. (50 STATE LEGAL 85-93, C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-46) BASIC RPM 2400-6000

If you don't have those kinds of mods, it won't perform optimally; and even so, you can see that things are gonna be pretty flat below 2500 rpm.
 
ok when i woke up today my dad said that i could charge the right parts on his credit card so i dont do a half-assed rebuild. :) i am so happy i can now look at comp and lunati and other higher end cams. So start recommending the ones you guys would use, sorry michael that is what i got from that post. anyways throw the cam ideas out there. also remember this is a daily driver