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I am stuck... Battery Relocation

  • Thread starter Thread starter A67StangMaster
  • Start date Start date Feb 29, 2008

A67StangMaster

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May 4, 2005
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San Jose CA
Feb 29, 2008
#1
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #1
Today I bought a Battery Relocation kit for my 67 mustang.
while I was installing it I ran into a problem. I have a mini starter and it uses 2 wires to get it to start.
A 12g and a 4g
Now the kit cam with a Long Red 4g cable, and a short 2ft 4g black cable.
How am I supose to wire this up?
I try thinking of way to install it but I am completely lost...
Please Help....
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
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#2
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #2
Where is your starter motor relay ?
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
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tucson,az
Feb 29, 2008
#3
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #3
you can wire it two ways;

1: run the heavy gauge cable to the hot side of the starter solenoid, and then fromt he hot side to the starter. you then run the lighter second wire from the load side of hte solenoid to the starter. this is the way it was designed to run.

2: you run the heavy cable to the hot side of the solenoid, then run the heavy cable from the load side to the starter, and use a short jumper wire from the large stud to the small one on the starter. this will work, but some people have some minor issues with the stater not engaging properly.
 

A67StangMaster

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#4
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #4
Well in hopes of not having to use a bunch of wire, I moved the starter solenoid to the rear.
I connected everything like before but in the kit the Red Long 4g wire comes preconnected to a battery terminal Am I suposed to cut it off and use a O clamp and use it on the hot side?
 

A67StangMaster

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May 4, 2005
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Feb 29, 2008
#5
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #5
Dose anyone have some pictures, I have look around in the treads but no one really has a good pictures to see how it was done.

P.S I wired the hole car faster then this.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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#6
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #6
A67StangMaster said:
Well in hopes of not having to use a bunch of wire, I moved the starter solenoid to the rear.
I connected everything like before but in the kit the Red Long 4g wire comes preconnected to a battery terminal Am I suposed to cut it off and use a O clamp and use it on the hot side?
Click to expand...

I think that is why you are confused. You should clip that wire off at the right length to go to the positive side of the solenoid and put a terminal lug on it. The other end should go to your starter's hot all the time terminal. You are going to need to run a smaller gauge wire to the starter's signal terminal and connect the other end to the starter motor relay's starter power terminal.

Did you try to add the new starter motor at the same time as trunking the battery ?
 

A67StangMaster

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Feb 29, 2008
#7
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #7
Rusty67 said:
Did you try to add the new starter motor at the same time as trunking the battery ?
Click to expand...

No I didnt I had it in there before. it was working perfect.
Ok well I am cutting the end off to fit it into the terminal.
Hopefully done by the end of the night.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
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Feb 29, 2008
#8
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #8
You don't really need to use your old solenoid. You can use just a relay:

 
I

iapexl8r

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Feb 29, 2008
#9
  • Feb 29, 2008
  • #9
to make your life alot easier you should move the solenoid back under the hood. then you can just run the pos wire from your bat to the pos sode of the solenoid. My favorite place to mount the solenoid is below the pass side hood hinge. close to the starter and out of the way. also if you choose not to run the ground wire from the bat to the engine block be sure the engine is grounded to the trunk chris
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
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As long as the engine is properly grounded to the chasis does it matter where ?
 
I

iapexl8r

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#11
  • Feb 29, 2008
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oops not trunk but chassis (refering to the end of my previous post)
 

69gmachine

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Mar 1, 2008
#12
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #12
Tim65GT said:
You don't really need to use your old solenoid. You can use just a relay:

Click to expand...

I love the illustration. What did you use to create it?
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
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West Texas
Mar 1, 2008
#13
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #13
69gmachine

I love the illustration. What did you use to create it?
Click to expand...

Powerpoint. Then I copied and pasted it into Paint to create a .jpg

I did all my elect systems originally with Generic CADD 6.0 but then they went out of business and I couldn't find a converter.

I'm pretty sure MS Powerpoint will be around for a while.
 

A67StangMaster

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May 4, 2005
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Mar 1, 2008
#14
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #14
Tim65GT said:
You don't really need to use your old solenoid. You can use just a relay:

Click to expand...


Thanks alot for the picture.
I might go this route, but just kinda worried would anything have too much power and blow up?
I dont want to break anything.

Also I have been meaning to change my alternator, any suggestions on to what I should buy? whats the cheapest best buy.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Mar 1, 2008
#15
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #15
Thanks alot for the picture.
I might go this route, but just kinda worried would anything have too much power and blow up?
I dont want to break anything.

Also I have been meaning to change my alternator, any suggestions on to what I should buy? whats the cheapest best buy.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you route the cable and wiring in a good location, use grommets where they go through the trunk or firewall. Crimp and/or solder your connections good and insulate the wire and make connections good and tight. Make sure the ground from the engine is connected to the frame on clean, bare metal.

For an alternator, I got a 130 amp 3G alternator from a 94/95 Mustang GT frrom a salvage yard for $45. It's a small case type, so it bolts right in and has the internal regulator. The pulley will have to be swapped for a v-groove type. Any of the 100 amp units would probably be sufficient.

Here is a pic of the power distribution panel I made when I moved my battery:

 

A67StangMaster

New Member
May 4, 2005
401
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Mar 1, 2008
#16
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #16
Tim65GT said:
Just make sure you route the cable and wiring in a good location, use grommets where they go through the trunk or firewall. Crimp and/or solder your connections good and insulate the wire and make connections good and tight. Make sure the ground from the engine is connected to the frame on clean, bare metal.

For an alternator, I got a 130 amp 3G alternator from a 94/95 Mustang GT frrom a salvage yard for $45. It's a small case type, so it bolts right in and has the internal regulator. The pulley will have to be swapped for a v-groove type. Any of the 100 amp units would probably be sufficient.

Here is a pic of the power distribution panel I made when I moved my battery:

Click to expand...


Thanks I am heading out to the PickandPull out here, there were a couple of mustangs out there that i might be able to pull it off of.
Are there any other years that have a good alt?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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Mar 1, 2008
#17
  • Mar 1, 2008
  • #17
The early to mid 90s Taurus as well I believe.
 
B

bluovl

New Member
Jun 21, 2009
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Jul 8, 2021
#18
  • Jul 8, 2021
  • #18
@Tim65GT
Hello Tim65GT,

I am in the process of trying to move the battery to the trunk of my '69 and ran across a picture of your set up. It looks awesome! And exactly how I would like to wire a set up in my project. I have read several posts, but am still confused as to the safest way to do a set up like yours. Could I bother you to send me a picture of your set up labeled so I could reproduce it in my project. I have the stock starter and Powermaster single wire alt. I have just ended up with a giant headache trying to filter through how to wire a set up like yours, although I was wondering if you have any breakers wired in for safety? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks and Blessings,
 
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