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I can hear starter solenoid try to send the juice but starter does not even crank..

  • Thread starter Thread starter Pokageek
  • Start date Start date Aug 17, 2007

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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Aug 17, 2007
#1
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #1
Any ideas guys? Could it be an improper ground or something?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Aug 17, 2007
#2
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #2
Probably a primary load issue. Put a charger on the battery, clean all battery connections. If still no-go, use a spare jumper cable to augment existing cables, one at a time. If the car magically starts, whatever OEM cable you are paralleling is likely deficient. Also put the cable from the motor to the frame rail (clean metal) to create a temporary engine ground. If this helps, add another motor ground.

Good luck.
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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Aug 17, 2007
#3
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #3
Thx. Battery is brand spanking new.

"Starter voltage/amperage draw test. Turn Headlight on, watch the headlights and crank the engine. If the headlights stay bright your starter motor is probably bad and needs to be replaced. If headlights dim it could mean your starter motor is shorted or your battery is weak. (note: always replace battery cables with excessive signs of corrosion)"

My lights dim whe nattempting to start so according to the above it points -> to a ground went bad .. the one that is attached to the inside of starter. Strange though.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Aug 17, 2007
#4
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #4
You buy nicer stuff that I do but new does not mean good (I make parts stores bench test batteries before I buy them. I've had more than one test bad right off their shelf).

If this was not an issue before the battery swap, pay real attention to the battery connections.
Sometimes a quick test is to use a jumper cable (you note the theme here). Put one half of the aligator clip on the cable's terminal and one half of the aligator on the battery post itself (normally we put the clip so it only touches the terminal and not the post. Doing it this new way bridges the post to the terminal). Do this for positive and ground terminals at the same time (but keep an eye on the other end of the jumper cables so they dont short). If the car tries to start easier than it did before, that points hard to a battery connection problem.

Good luck.
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
2,767
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46
MA, USA
Aug 17, 2007
#5
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #5
Ok. Thanks. I also found this:

"just the other day found the ground wire for the ccrm loose, right by the negative batt terminal, that caused all kins of trouble, just simply tightnening the sheet metal screw that ground the wire to the frame cured all..."

I did move my ccrm but did not notice it had a ground. I will have to look..
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Aug 17, 2007
#6
  • Aug 17, 2007
  • #6
The CCRM does not have a ground wire that attaches to its body (like with an eyelet through a screw hole or something like that) that I recall. There is a dedicated ground wire in the CCRM harness (something like CCRM Pin 15 IIRC).

Also, the car should crank [AFAIK] without a CCRM.
 

Pokageek

Active Member
Jun 10, 2005
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46
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Aug 18, 2007
#7
  • Aug 18, 2007
  • #7
HISSIN50 said:
The CCRM does not have a ground wire that attaches to its body (like with an eyelet through a screw hole or something like that) that I recall. There is a dedicated ground wire in the CCRM harness (something like CCRM Pin 15 IIRC).

Also, the car should crank [AFAIK] without a CCRM.
Click to expand...


Hissin, you are like a regular encyclopedia when it comes to the cars! Glad you are on this forum.

BTW ..new battery...still charging from last night!
 
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