I did a tweecer data log. Man i think someting is wrong with something.

[bjl95mustang]

Just a few q's and my car is driveable right now but just a few problems.

What should the maf read kg/hr at idle? Mine was about 40.00. I'm not sure if that is normal for an L-meter or not with my 418 engine.

What should the maf gauge max value be set at? 500,1000,1500?

At part throttle rev to 1.5-2k my right o2 maxes out to 1.0v and the left o2 is about .06-.09. But once I let off of the gas both o2's go to .03-.08.

This is what I have noticed off the bat. If anyone has any ideas on this lmk or if you can look at my data log lmk and that would be awesome, Like Grady

Thanks,
Brandon

 

[final5-0]

Well Brandon

I've had no experience with a motor of your size but most NA 302-306 ci size motors are gonna idle at around the .7 to 1.0 maf volt range unless their load scaling is way off.

Then again ...... Yours should be similar as every combo only has a maf volt range from 0 to 5 volts to work with.

Did you put your correct motor size in the Scalar?

About the O2's ...... Main thing you want to see is the O2's switching with a lot of activity when driving around in Closed Loop.

I don't have any idea about your maf gauge max value question. Perhaps your talking about something in V1.30 which I have no experience with.

Grady

 

[WhiteDevil]

I think i usually see around 30kg/hr or so at an 800rpm idle since im a 302 and your 418 the 40kg/hr makes sense. As for MAF voltage i run around .9-1.0 but you cant focus on that number because my MAF is calibrated for 19# injectors and yours is an LMAF calibrated for 42# injectors so your Kg/hr to voltage curve is going to be way different.

 

[BlackVert]

You probably already know all this, but:

If an O2 goes to 1.0 and stays there, that means that it thinks you are really rich. That could mean you really are really rich on that side only, which seems unlikely, or you could have a leak on the other side whereby oxygen is getting in and causing the o2 to read leaner than it is. Or the sensor could have grease or something on it that causes it to not be able to do its job correctly.

I think you probably want to be looking at the KAMRFs more. The goal is to get them to average 1.0 as much of the time as possible.

You also want to enter the information about your cam. A tool like EEC Analyzer is really helpful for that.

Tuners usually start with a known quantity, which is usually the MAF transfer for the MAF you are using. Have you put that in?

Then the next thing is usually to determine the real flow rates of your injectors and the breakpoint. That is usually done by taking lots of big logs and looking at the average KAMRFs. EEC Analyzer is helpful here too.

You can get injectors from FRPP that have been flow tested and they give you 8 that all flow exactly the same (and they tell you the rate too of course). That takes the guesswork out of that part which is great, but they are really expensive. If $$$ was no issue, I would DEFINATELY get them. But $$$ is an issue for me.

Then people usually go after the "injector offset vs battery voltage" function. When that is done, the computer has accurate information about the air and fuel and should be managing that part well.

At this point, you should be ready to start playing with the spark tables.