I dont know what to do! HELP!

What sensor are you referring to? the ACT?

Daggar said:

What sensor are you referring to? the ACT?

Click to expand...

what he said, the one on the coolant rail?

here is what i did, (i didn't run an EGR spacer so i had to cut my coolant rail)

cut the coolant rail about half way down so you can still put that sensor in, then just "loop" a hose around to connect the two ends.

thats not exaclty what i did cause i NEED my heater core up here for the chilly mornings, i just cut mine and ran to rubber hoses to the fire wall.

cause i think the sensor is getting a false reading from the lower intake

just a thought

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

ok..... what i am trying to say is, put those steel lines back on and cut them just after where the sensor is, so you can still put that sensor in. then take a peice of coolant rubber hose and "loop" a hose so it bypasses the heater core, this way the sensor is stil in the same spot. i have seen guys not cut it and just loop it around the back of the motor. i cut mine so i could use my TB with no EGR spacer

here is a half assed scetch i made

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