i found 2 problems...

MI95Cobra

New Member

Aug 20, 2006

451

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Oklahoma City

Jun 1, 2007

#1

• Jun 1, 2007

• #1

i've been trying to get my car started for the past few weeks with no success...well i took the valve covers off to soo if i tightened the valves to tight...i noticed something...no oil....anywhere...it was dry....so then the first problem...i have a problem with the oil pump and probably the shaft and also the pickup...then the 2nd problem.....my distributor is messed up...i figure i might as well rebuild my motor all at 1 time....so should i go ahead and get aluminum heads and new carnk...or should i just fix it and go on down the road???

 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.

10 Year Member

Jan 8, 2006

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Louisiana

Jun 1, 2007

#2

• Jun 1, 2007

• #2

MI95Cobra said:

so should i go ahead and get aluminum heads and new carnk..

Click to expand...

If you can afford it, **** yea.

 

5.0 from 95

Founding Member

Nov 6, 2001

738

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Emory, TX

Jun 1, 2007

#3

• Jun 1, 2007

• #3

The Green GT said:

If you can afford it, **** yea.

Click to expand...

Paul

 

B

Badazgt.

New Member

May 31, 2007

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Jun 1, 2007

#4

• Jun 1, 2007

• #4

ur dist. might be messed up because of the oil pump... if the pump is messed up then the dist. wouldn't work right because of the oil pump shaft

 

MI95Cobra

New Member

Aug 20, 2006

451

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Oklahoma City

Jun 1, 2007

#5

• Jun 1, 2007

• #5

ok...so should i use the same crank or get a new one??? i'm gonna get a higher flowing oil pump and extras and a new msd distributor, also heads...so should i worry about the crank..???

 

Stanger007

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2001

2,015

2

46

Baton Rouge, LA

Jun 2, 2007

#6

• Jun 2, 2007

• #6

You may want to reconsider the higher volume oil pump and the MSD - those are two areas where the stock pieces work quite well (and save you some $$$)!

Wes

 

B

Badazgt.

New Member

May 31, 2007

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Jun 2, 2007

#7

• Jun 2, 2007

• #7

Wes im gonna have to disagree on ya about the high flow oil pump... for 20 dollars more u can get 2 the amout of flow... the dist. i would just leave the stock in some people feal it does a better job then the MSD unit... also dont forget with the high flow oil pump they recommend a hardned shaft like an ARP

-colby

 

B

Badazgt.

New Member

May 31, 2007

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Jun 2, 2007

#8

• Jun 2, 2007

• #8

a new crank won't be needed.... u need to mic. it and at the most get it turned .010 over

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

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DFW Texas

Jun 2, 2007

#9

• Jun 2, 2007

• #9

Badazgt. said:

Wes im gonna have to disagree on ya about the high flow oil pump... for 20 dollars more u can get 2 the amout of flow... the dist. i would just leave the stock in some people feal it does a better job then the MSD unit... also dont forget with the high flow oil pump they recommend a hardned shaft like an ARP

-colby

Click to expand...

I don't want to disagree
but
Share a thought or two

We sometimes try and use principles of Race Car applications on
Street Car applications and that does not always work like it
would seem to at first thought.

When building a race only motor you don't consider the ability to
go for 100k miles, provide quiet operation, yada yada yada.

That allows you to build the motor loose for less friction and more hp.

The mains, rods, and the like will not only flow more oil, but flow more
of it at a quicker rate. The high volume or pressure pump is needed
for a sufficient supply.

Now ... Lets shift our focus to Street Cars

A big pump on the more tightly built oem motor has been known to
wash out the bearings from time to time

and

The fact it has to work so hard to force the supply against the tighter
clearances has been known to actually sap a bit of hp.

Just wanted to point out that some of the time .........
More of something is not always a benefit

Grady

 

rj95svt

Member

Jan 11, 2007

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Hayden, AL

Jun 2, 2007

#10

• Jun 2, 2007

• #10

It sounds like the oil pump locked up. One way to know for sure is to pull the distributer cap and have some one turn the engine over. If the rotor button doesn't turn what happened is the oil pump locked up shearing the roll pin in the distributor gear and probably twisting the oil pump drive shaft. Any kind of trash could possibly cause this to happen. If the rotor button does turn but there is no oil pressure it could have twisted the driveshaft and broke it but the engine would still crank and run without oil pressure if that was the case.

I agree completly with grady on the high volume oil pump. He gave very good reasons as to why you wouldn't need one. There is also the possibility that the stock oil pan would not hold as much oil as the pump is capable of pumping. Pumping the pan dry causing you to lose oil pressure. I've helped a friend that this happened to with a chevy engine. I would just have the crank and cylinder walls checked to see if there is evan enough wear to justify turning the crank and and doing any more than honing the cylinder walls and installing new rings, bearings and gaskets. Unless you just want to bore the engine and install forged pistons.

 

B

Badazgt.

New Member

May 31, 2007

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Jun 2, 2007

#11

• Jun 2, 2007

• #11

^^ very true about pumpin the pan dry in high rpms
i always recommend a 7 quarter when people want it done

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

12

79

DFW Texas

Jun 2, 2007

#12

• Jun 2, 2007

• #12

I guess I could share a deal we did when we were high schoolers

We would put a washer or two next to the spring

We could get a little more pressure
but
Not near as much as a purpose built pump

Yes ... I've heard about Chevys pumping the pan dry like that
but
Don't think I've heard about that with SBF's

But .. that don't mean it could not happen

Grady

 

C

CMEFLY

New Member

Dec 11, 2003

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bonney lake WA.

Jun 2, 2007

#13

• Jun 2, 2007

• #13

Do not run a high volume or high pressure oil pump in a small block ford. 289,302,351w oil very well. A standard volume oil pump flows more then enough oil.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

5,589

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98

Bethesda, MD

Jun 2, 2007

#14

• Jun 2, 2007

• #14

what happens if you put a drill on the oil pump drive shaft and turn the drill on? does the oil pump? it might be that the dizzy wasn't properly attached to the drive shafft. i assume you didn't drive the car with no oil? if not, y

 

MI95Cobra

New Member

Aug 20, 2006

451

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Oklahoma City

Jun 3, 2007

#15

• Jun 3, 2007

• #15

ok...go for a stock oip pump, pick-up, and shaft and also a stock distributor????

 

MI95Cobra

New Member

Aug 20, 2006

451

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Oklahoma City

Jun 3, 2007

#16

• Jun 3, 2007

• #16

if my oil pump was out...it had just done it before i decided to tear down my motor...it was probably a good thing i did...otherwise iit would of caused alot of problems....alot.....also whats the best and easiest way to replace the oip pump...take out the motor or the cross member???

 

MI95Cobra

New Member

Aug 20, 2006

451

1

0

Oklahoma City

Jun 3, 2007

#17

• Jun 3, 2007

• #17

i just talked to a mechanic.....he said the oil pump is most likely clogged with slugg....and the distributor should be replaced...